floating ancor points

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I am thinking of getting set up with an SRT setup, I figure it will be good to have another trick when I need it. I know little about floating anchors in SRT setups. I was wondering if people could tell me what works best, whats safest, and what isn't. Thanks
 
what do you mean by floating anchor points in SRT? I either tie one end of the rope to the ground or up in the tree with a running bowline or a running bowline with a bite. Floating anchors sounds interesting.
 
I think he means the equivalent of 'The Secret Weapon', your TIP is a ring or pulley attached to your ascenders. Your DdRT setup is already rigged to the ring so you can go up the rope, tie a spike and go to work without going all the way up and establishing a friction saver. You can raise your TIP higher later on by just climbing the rope some more.

The problem i know of is that if you use mechanicals to ascend, you need some sort of integrated soft rope grab so you can disengage the ascenders before working on the floating TIP.


...but then again, he might mean something else.
 
I'm not a fan of floating anchors. There are so many other easier ways to setup an anchor. Using ascenders, especially handled ascenders, as an anchor isn't the best system.

Sure, it's easy and convenient, no argument.

Even if there are 'backups' why not use some other method as an anchor point that has legs of its own?

Tie an in-line loop to hang a FC/pulley.
Go up to a proper TIP and make a transition.
Etc.
 
What you're talking about is the "piggy-back" or hybred method of SRT and its the method that I use all the time.

Basically you ascend with a frog walker type system but your DBdRT is connected to your saddle's anchor bridge ring with either an open or closed climbing system and a small ANSI rated pulley is connected to the top SRT ascender such as a Petzl Ascentree.

After disconnecting your Croll and Pantin, you can use the SRT as a long floating anchor point before reaching your TIP. Backup the top Ascender with a seperate friction hitch, with the biner clipped through the top holes.
 
At times its beneficial for me to accend SRT but have to ability to switch to DdRT quickly to start working on low portions of the canopy. The way I usually do that is using my CMI Expedition duals to push a ring/ring secret weapon. When I need to switch to DdRT I set a marlin spike below the prussic to work safely.

Now that I've gotten comfortable with my rope walker system, I would probably just go all the way up and get tied in properly.
 
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I'm not a fan of floating anchors. ...

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Floating anchors are excellent tools and have their place. But, Treebing, Tom and others have demonstrated great SRT systems for working. I really do not want to be controversial or offend anyone. So, please forgive me (apologies in advance) if these are stupid questions! Why use a floating anchor on an SRT line and then switch over to a "dynamic system" to work? Why not just work off the SRT line? With the advent of good SRT working systems, haven't switch-overs to DdRT become a waste of time? Take it easy, now... I genuinely want to know: in what ways is switching over to DdRT still useful as a working tool?
 
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When you say marlin spike, is this just more or less a slip knot with a carabiner slid through to keep it from slipping?

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Yes.

Chip, Its no great innovation. I'll show you in October when you come for the KTCC!
 
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Why use a floating anchor on an SRT line and then switch over to a "dynamic system" to work? Why not just work off the SRT line? With the advent of good SRT working systems, haven't switch-overs to DdRT become a waste of time?

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SRT seems best for long ascents or descents. I prefer DdRT for actual work.
 
Ive been working off of a srt line for some time.I injured my arm so working srt was hard with one hand.So I went back to doubled rope using pulleys,rope guides and friction savers and it seems so much easier on the body.I still use srt when I need to work the tree on the way up or its an easy downhill tree without alot of steep limbwalks.
 
SRT works just as well for small trees as it does for large trees. It is rare that I use DbRT any more.

Dave
 
Thanks for the input. I prefer DRT, and wouldnt use a floating anchor every time I used SRT. But I see it having a time and place. I was thinking of using a french prusik above the top ascender, and have 2 of the steel cambium saver rings in the loop that comes down and having my DRT into that. If I had a marlin spike below it, is that legit assuming everything is rated?
 

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