Employing lanyard SRT-style: descending?

theatertech87 said:
A second throw line avoids that problem. Over shoot, as second line to the tail, pull up and manipulate to where you'd like it, lower to ground, pull climb line in place, remove throw bag from the first line and pull clear
Click to expand...

When i’m woods climbing I only carry one throw kit, work climbing yes, all the tools are on the table.

Edit: that is a strong throwline technique, sometimes I forget to use it. Key there is to to put your heaviest throwbag on the second line, doesn't take much friction to defeat lowering the second bag trying to pull down two throwlines.
-AJ
 
Last edited:
LordFarkwad said:
Thanks for the tip! I actually removed that and converted back to a normal basal before coming down so I can run the paracord back up in the tree. Majorly majorly helps me being able to climb more often! (my free time is in spurts, so I'd spend 45min trying to set a line, and 15min climbing before it'd be time to wrap it up).
Click to expand...
Why would u remove the quickie?
The quickie is a SAINT!
You can use it for canopy or base anchors...
 
Mowerr said:
Why would u remove the quickie?
The quickie is a SAINT!
You can use it for canopy or base anchors...
Click to expand...

Cuz I want to retrieve it once at the ground but I just realized it doesn't preclude me from getting it back down and pulling my paracord back up.

Disclaimer: When you read something from me that doesn't sense, is unsafe, or inefficient, assume it is from ignorance, and if you have a moment, please offer correction, critique, rebuke, etc., etc.
 
My base anchor is just an AB with a figure 8 knot in the tail because I'm paranoid.

I probably should stop doing that for the sake of confidence building.
 
LordFarkwad said:
To that end, it has never budged an inch, ever, after I've come down and inspected it post-climb.

Edit: that is, the AB.
Click to expand...

If I'm basal anchoring with the end of a line I set a backed running bowline. The AB is most excellent on a basal anchor when you have more rope than you want in play in the tree, AB midline for the rope length you want to use, choked with a Quickie or delta screwlink.
-AJ
 
I set the basal anchor with the tail so that all my slack is on the working end, which means that I can advance as much as I want to after I reach my PSP. That was my thinking, at least, and I've never run out of tail to advance on once up (in all my 30 or so climbs haha).
 
You will do better to leave most of your excess on the base-tie side, giving your just enough to reach the ground (with cushion) after redirecting as you like. Less standing end is easier to bag and carry with you. Bagging and carrying avoids a lot of hassles. KNOT THE END OF THE ROPE.
I'd rather have a knot jam somewhere (esp on SRT/ SRT), than go off the end, like SOOO many climbers.

A trunk-wrap base-tie, has a built in lowering system (not whistle-stop test approved, nor overly complicated or expensive with NO CUTTING). The excess tail is your lowerable length, then add a rope. No pulleys/ friction hitches to pass during a theoretical rescue.
 
LordFarkwad said:
To that end, it has never budged an inch, ever, after I've come down and inspected it post-climb.
Edit: that is, the AB.
Click to expand...

The Vortex you are using has excellent knot holding characteristics. I'm with Moss, in that I will use the AB for more midline loops and a Bowline (but with a yosemite finish) for end of line loops.

I also differ from what Sean likes as I will most often base tie with my rope end, unless it is a really small tree. I'm not fond of stopper knots on the end of my climbing line so I just make sure that coming off the end is not a possibility. Different strokes.
 
Last edited:
DSMc said:
The Vortex you are using has excellent knot holding characteristics. I'm with Moss, in that I will use the AB for more midline loops and a Bowline (but with a yosemite finish) for end of line loops.

I also differ from what Sean likes as I will most often base tie with my rope end, unless it is a really small tree. I'm not fond of stopper knots on the end of my climbing line so I just make sure that coming off the end is not a possibility. Different strokes.
Click to expand...

Why do you guys not use the AB for end-of-line purposes?
 
The AB is a midline loop, by design. While it will hold well when only loaded from one leg, there are others, like the bowline, that are specifically designed for a single leg load.
 
Last edited:
DSMc said:
The AB is a midline loop, by design. While it will hold well when only loaded from one leg, there are others, like the bowline, that are specifically designed for a single leg load.
Click to expand...

I never thunk about that, but it makes allot of sense.

I gotta say, all the talk about the bowline being able to be shaken out by loading-unloading cycles, and about tying the Yosemite finish wrong and it resulting in death, etc., etc., that has kind of soured me on the prospect of using it for life support.

Easy solution, I know - just learn to tie it right. It's true. And then maybe experiment with it on the ground, and read what had gone wrong in cases where it's failed.
 
I use the Bowline with a yosemite finish all the time, for many things. I rate it as one of the safest knots I know. Any knot can be tied wrong or misused so that is a poor reason for not using it.

A good tree climbing rope must include very good knot holding characteristics in my opinion. With a rope like that, the Bowline with a yosemite finish, once set, will not shake loose.
 
Thanks, @DSMc. That certainly boosts my confidence. I'll try it out next time I get to climb. Is it the norm for most folks to do anything with the tail after the Y finish? E.g., stopper, double overhand tail to working end, or something?
 
LordFarkwad said:
Thanks, @DSMc. That certainly boosts my confidence. I'll try it out next time I get to climb. Is it the norm for most folks to do anything with the tail after the Y finish? E.g., stopper, double overhand tail to working end, or something?
Click to expand...
The Yosemite bowline doesn't really need a stopper but some guys use stopper knits more than others, I don't with the Yosemite but sometimes ill tuck the tail back through the knot so the tail points towards the loop...ill look for a picture
 
Also, just realized something I find a little entertaining: in allot of the threads I've started (I'd say half or more), I'll start out the thread asking a question on how to do something I think I need to do, and end up being convinced - sometimes sooner than other times - that my question was wrong, or my goal was wrong, which will then be confirmed through experimentation.

Thanks for sharing the wisdom, guys.
 
LordFarkwad said:
Also, just realized something I find a little entertaining: in allot of the threads I've started (I'd say half or more), I'll start out the thread asking a question on how to do something I think I need to do, and end up being convinced - sometimes sooner than other times - that my question was wrong, or my goal was wrong, which will then be confirmed through experimentation.

Thanks for sharing the wisdom, guys.
Click to expand...
My wife gets so mad when I tell her she's asking the wrong questions.


I like the double bowline. I learned it before the Yosemite, and it is much easier to learn once you can tie a bowline. Boel (I'd attempt to spell her last name if I thought it would even be recognizable) informed me that it is also called a water bowline... and now a quick search shows me that they are different. Oh well, another thread...

You just make a second loop in the same direction and sit it right on top of the first one and tie a bowline.

Double Bowline Knot animated and illustrated

How to tie a Double Bowline Knot animated and illustrated by the most trusted name in knots | NetKnots
www.netknots.com www.netknots.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom