I wanted to see what rope climbers were using with the Edelrid Eddy. I recently tried out the RADS system after reading about it here, and liked it alot. The only complaint I had was that I tried to use my Poison Hivee rope, and it made the Eddy get really warm. I opened it up after the descent (about 35 feet) and the cam was pretty hot. I know it was rated for 9 - 11 millimeter rope, and the rope I had was 11.7 I believe. Just wanted to see what others use and if any of the slightly larger ropes (like Tachyon) work all right or if I need to stick strictkly to the 11mm or smaller ropes.
Edelrid Eddy and rope choice
- Thread starter kevknep
- Start date
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
I've been using the Eddy system since 11/07. First with KM III and then with Tachyon. Occasionally I'll use my shorter length of Fly. I'm interested in trying some All Gear Prolite or Securelite, too.
You'll find a different 'sweet spot' position on the lever for each rope type due to the rope characteristics.
Do you control friction by pulling down on the lever or pushing up? Just curious as to how you work yours.
I'll agree, a little (controlled) screamer from 30+ feet will heat up the cam. I don't pay it much heed because the Eddy is pretty massive and cools in a minute or so. I'd rather have the heat dissipate into the mass than up the lever or into my hands or the rope.
You'll find a different 'sweet spot' position on the lever for each rope type due to the rope characteristics.
Do you control friction by pulling down on the lever or pushing up? Just curious as to how you work yours.
I'll agree, a little (controlled) screamer from 30+ feet will heat up the cam. I don't pay it much heed because the Eddy is pretty massive and cools in a minute or so. I'd rather have the heat dissipate into the mass than up the lever or into my hands or the rope.
- Location
- Minneapolis
Hi Jim
Could you post a pic or describe your backup/bail-out for your srt system. I was thinking about your bee experience. Thanks.
Could you post a pic or describe your backup/bail-out for your srt system. I was thinking about your bee experience. Thanks.
I only climbed on it for one day, but I found it felt a little more natural for me to control friction by pulling up on the lever with the left hand while keeping my right hand on the running end. More precisely the face of the Eddy with the lettering is pointing away from me and I pull the handle up and to the left.
I was glad to hear that the cam heating up wasn't a surprise. My first couple of trips up the tree was just getting use to using the device, and then the next one was where I starting seeing just how quickly I could descend before locking the cam.
The reason I asked about the rope size, was in addition to the cam being warm after descending, I saw some debris from the rope left in the Eddy that worried me. Until know I have always used a hitch, so the fuzzing of the rope from the ascender and the debris on the cam is all new to me. The rope probably doesn't have a dozen climbs on it, and is almost new.
I was glad to hear that the cam heating up wasn't a surprise. My first couple of trips up the tree was just getting use to using the device, and then the next one was where I starting seeing just how quickly I could descend before locking the cam.
The reason I asked about the rope size, was in addition to the cam being warm after descending, I saw some debris from the rope left in the Eddy that worried me. Until know I have always used a hitch, so the fuzzing of the rope from the ascender and the debris on the cam is all new to me. The rope probably doesn't have a dozen climbs on it, and is almost new.
- Location
- Lexington, Kentucky
Does anyone know where the Eddy is available to purchase. I think I remember asking this before, but forgot the link to the site. Thanks
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Kev,
A review of the Eddy:
http://tinyurl.com/64zqdn
Making the move from DdRT to SRT will have some differences. More friction on the hitch or device is one.
I'm sure that there is a recommended descent speed in the instructions for the Eddy. My instructions aren't at hand so I can'd find out right now.
A bit of fuzzing is normal for any device or hitch.
When you descend always have a brake hand on the rope below your hitch/device and adjust your speed to the friction on your brake hand.
A review of the Eddy:
http://tinyurl.com/64zqdn
Making the move from DdRT to SRT will have some differences. More friction on the hitch or device is one.
I'm sure that there is a recommended descent speed in the instructions for the Eddy. My instructions aren't at hand so I can'd find out right now.
A bit of fuzzing is normal for any device or hitch.
When you descend always have a brake hand on the rope below your hitch/device and adjust your speed to the friction on your brake hand.
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Good point, Tom, always keeping a brake hand below. I get a greater sense of my speed with that lower hand on the rope, although control of braking is done via the lever.
Kev, good to see you were inspecting your gear to that extent. It can get so easy to bypass that step since it attaches so quickly and easily (note to myself).
I'll get picts in the next few days.
Kev, good to see you were inspecting your gear to that extent. It can get so easy to bypass that step since it attaches so quickly and easily (note to myself).
I'll get picts in the next few days.
- Location
- Minneapolis
[ QUOTE ]
The best price I found was at OutdoorBasics.
[/ QUOTE ]
This is cheaper at $102 plus shipping. I've never purchased at thehuntshack but their feedback looks good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EDELRID-EDDY-BELAY-D...Q2em118Q2el1247
The best price I found was at OutdoorBasics.
[/ QUOTE ]
This is cheaper at $102 plus shipping. I've never purchased at thehuntshack but their feedback looks good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EDELRID-EDDY-BELAY-D...Q2em118Q2el1247
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
I have a similar concern and question - devices such as the Eddy and GriGri state rope size ranges up to 11mm. Is this a recommendation only? I'm thinking of using an Eddy to learn RADS and use as a belay device. Do I have to use 11mm rope or less to avoid problems? Sounds like its common practice to use ropes that are larger than a climbing device recommends. Using GriGri's (and similar devices) for 1/2" is accepted by ISA (at events), but is it by ANSI?
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
These sort of rope tools rely on a cam to function. A cam is a bent lever. If the fulcrum or length of lever arm is changed the function will change.
by using a larger diameter rope in a tool the cam will not work like it was designed. Some tools have minimum and maximum rope diameters listed.
Using too large a rope diameter could cause less than optimum grabbing/closing power which is likely to cause slipping/falling.
I've read that the Cinch is VERY diameter-critical.
by using a larger diameter rope in a tool the cam will not work like it was designed. Some tools have minimum and maximum rope diameters listed.
Using too large a rope diameter could cause less than optimum grabbing/closing power which is likely to cause slipping/falling.
I've read that the Cinch is VERY diameter-critical.
- Location
- Suburb of Motown, U.S.A.
[ QUOTE ]
Using too large a rope diameter could cause less than optimum grabbing/closing power which is likely to cause slipping/falling.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've found that a large rope (1/2" in an 11mm device) causes excessive friction. I agree though that it'll likely cause problems with the intended friction mechanism.
Using too large a rope diameter could cause less than optimum grabbing/closing power which is likely to cause slipping/falling.
[/ QUOTE ]
I've found that a large rope (1/2" in an 11mm device) causes excessive friction. I agree though that it'll likely cause problems with the intended friction mechanism.
