Echo 355t

Think of it as a light switch. Up on, down off.
The echo was my first top handle so it's the opposite for me.
I get goofed up was I use my stihl.
 
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1/4" Utility cord girth hitched on the pistol grip and tied back through the retention ring. I could not trust that ring to hold if I dropped the saw.
I've had my saw pull out of my hands a couple of times from staying in the cut too long while dropping chunks.
Wood pulled the saw down with it till my lanyard bottomed out and the saw broke free of the wood.
That little ring is plenty strong, trust me. :sisi:
 
Did a honey locust removal today. First big test of the saw.

Came through with flying colors! At some point I should have switched to a bigger saw but I wanted to see what it could do. Cutting through honey locust bar buried in 14-15" diameter wood and it just wanted more of it. I'm impressed. That doesn't speak for longevity - only time will tell, but as much power as I ever need from a top handle.

The 2 complaints:
*The ring to hang it seems very weak.
*I don't like pulling backwards to turn it off. The forward push on my old Husqvarna seems more intuitive. Probably will get used to it, but it is just a more intentional pull back rather than a reactive push forward.
I had a ring break off of an echo. No excesive trauma, just came off when I dropped the saw onto my lanyard. It was at least 12 years ago, so there could have been changes since then. The saw feel about 80 feet and hit a log within 10 feet of ground men. It broke into so many pieces we couldn't find them all. I always girth hitched the handle on echoes after that.
 
Better safe then sorry but it's not an issue on the 355t.
The two times it happened to me with the 355t my bungee lanyard bottomed out and almost yanked me out of the tree before it let loose.
The only damage was to the chain which got twisted up pretty good.
True story.
 
Think of it as a light switch. Up on, down off.
The echo was my first top handle so it's the opposite for me.
I get goofed up was I use my stihl.
That logically makes sense...but ergonomically I don't think it does:
*As I am making a cut, my hand is moving forward and down to make the cut
*If the wood pulls a little (as you mentioned happens to us all!) the saw goes forward.
*My wrist is going forward to apply the brake after the cut
.....everything is moving forward, but I have to pull the switch back.

I'm sure I'll get used to it, but I think forward makes more sense. I did go forwards once or twice and closing the choke stalled it out, so I guess that kinda works too LOL. Overall, that is a minor complaint for a saw that I otherwise am very impressed with.
 

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