Double braid ring-N-ring

Zac

Zac

Location
sunny Madison, WI
It's really nasty outside so I have been splicing today.

My brother wanted a non-adjustable ringer that could easily be set from the ground. We wanted to make it using rope we had on hand which was:

a 13' piece of blaze DB
a 6' piece of Hi-v 16 strand
a variety of tenex

I didn't want to make it out of tenex because it's such a loose weave and might not easily flip out of a tree.

We decided that since the 16 strand splice is rather long, it would make for a long ringer, plus we didn't have very much rope to work with.

That leaves the blaze... so here we are. I left the pictures large
 

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I'm curious about what my peers think about this piece of gear. The main problem I see is that the cover did not pull tight. Since this is a DB the core and cover share the load. Because the cover is more loose than the core that would mean that the core is taking more of the load than normal.

I was thinking that I could bunch up the excess to the side with the large ring and then put a tight whiplock about where the needle is in the first picture. This would also help stiffen the "flip" end of the ringer.

Is this a problem?
Are there other problems?
Did I make a neat-looking plant hanger?
 

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I'd probably use it. I think you're right about the cover needing to be tight but it's still pretty strong in a double configuration.

I used 16 strand (Hi-Vee) for mine and made it adjustable. I gotta say, I was jumpy for a while climbing on mine since i couldn't keep an eye on the splices but now I love it.
 
For mine I used tenex and have it covered with a one inch tubular material to resist abrasion and picking since the locked brummel was easy and quick.
 
You know, it seems these types of friction savers are becoming more and more popular. Our policy is not to make them out of 24 strand. Instead we only make them out of 16 strand rope.

Reason why is because the construction of a 16 strand is conducive to totally removing the core, and then doing a full bury with about 11-12" of cross over in the middle.

Those make real solid and strong friction savers.

A double braid is really dependent on having the core and jacket work together. Doing an two eye splices on double braid and getting them close together would be difficult at best.

How exactly did you splice this?
 
Zac, I wouldn't worry about it with just a climbers weight on it. If it were used for rigging, then yes I'd be concerned.
I made 2 out of 12 strand vectran (different lenghts), but put a tube webbing cover in the middle to reduce the 'picks'.
I can post pics later if interested. I'm at home today and have to post pics from my laptop at work. 12" of snow so far.
 
I did a regular class 1 DB splice on both ends. The eye on the small ring side got a little tighter than I had anticipated. After I "massaged" the hell out of it with a rubber mallet and swore at it couple times it gave up and decided to go in. I'd hate to get a massage like that!


Anybody see any problems with bunching up the excess to one side and whipping it in place? otherwise it would just float around.

John, could you tell me more about the 16 strand... do you have pics? Measurements?

I liked the DB over the 12 strand because it was stiffer. Vectran would be pretty stiff for a while until it got broken in. Norm, if you have a picture handy I'd like to see it, I'm probably going to make another ringer.


8-10" so far in Mad-town, but it's really drifting a lot.
 
I would have to say you made a neat plant hanger. No way I'd climb on it. When you bunch up the cover you nullify the holding power(friction) of the splice. Chinese finger trap, remember? Don't rely on the lockstich! I make lanyards out of Blaze and Velocity. 16' long with a splice at both ends. I finish one end and then milk the heck out of the rope (4 or 5 times with a prusik) before I splice the opposite end. I still end up with a little bunching after a couple weeks of climbing.
 
This is the 1 I made out of 7/16" vectran. Small ring with a captive eye biner. I put a tube webbing cover in the middle to help with setting and to protect against 'picks'.
 

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OK, here we go with some photos of what we do for friction savers.

The 16 strand is what we use for safety and solid performance.

The first picture is the layout of the rope
 

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Then the other side is done. You can see the tail ends clearly overlap each other. This is the cross over section.

(Just for clarity, the metal rings were left off of this one, but you can see where they would go.)
 

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