theatertech87
Branched out member
- Location
- Rochester
reminds me of the old metal crimps and plates that you would hammer onto ropes to make crude eyes and keep the ends of 3/4 strand ropes from unfraying
Documenting my hand-sewn eye process
- Thread starter moss
- Start date
MapleLeafRopes
New member
- Location
- Brantford
Glad to see it arrived safe and sound! Enjoy the gear (and the stickers)!
so they don't cut the fibers Pinhead Squirrel
Participating member
- Location
- Limb moon walking
- Location
- Santa Cruz
I'm very surprised that polyurethane would be the product of choice since I've used it in outdoor applications and the UV performance/durability is nothing short of horrific. I have a redwood slab tabletop that lives in a sunny location and a thick poly coating lasts one season if I'm lucky, even with 4-6 coats. I am new to the rope sewing game but at least on wood poly has been an extremely fragile product when exposed to the sun and I've just given up on using it entirely because it has zero durability in my situation. But the shoe goo makes a lot more sense as it remains flexible and has never failed in my applications.
Just FYI, Sherrill Tree has DMM thimbles on sale for 50% off.
sherrilltree.com
DMM Steel Thimble 6mm
Great for our accessory cords. Cords up to 6mm in diameter. Steel, 6mm diameter max line.
sherrilltree.com
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
Shadowscape
Been here a while
- Location
- far north
That should hold. I would melt the end and taper it like A.J. does so it doesn't catch on stuff, and it doesn't unravel.
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
It's a dyneema core and 50% technora cover, so I don't think that heat will affect it the same way. I adapted the principles of the Yale whiplock, which is what you see below the main run of stitches. I was thinking of putting a dab of shoe glue, which I have tested on rope ends before, and it still looks like the day it was applied.
It's mostly gonna be used in my 5:1
Last edited:
I would still put heat shrink tubing over the stitching if I were you. Abrasion resistance is nice. I had a rigging line jump to the wrong side of a spar with a small piece tied on because of my own error and instead of affecting the stitches, it melted the heat shrink instead before I stopped it.
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
I prefer electrical tape. I definitely wrap all my stitch work.
Shadowscape
Been here a while
- Location
- far north
With clear heat shrink you can kind of keep an eye on things. With electrical tape it is hidden. Hard to see if something is failing.
I like electrical tape as well however. Good electrical tape. Not crappy stuff. 3ms 88 is a good one.
I like electrical tape as well however. Good electrical tape. Not crappy stuff. 3ms 88 is a good one.
Shadowscape
Been here a while
- Location
- far north
3M does make a clear electrical tape, but it is used mainly in electronics, and it is horridly expensive. I think it runs about $40.00 a roll. I have never used it so I can't tell you how it stretches or adheres.
40PR 1X72 would be their stock number.
40PR 1X72 would be their stock number.
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
Start a GoFundMe for @Matias?
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
A good middle strategy is use e-tape to hold down and taper the frayed end, leave the stitching visible. Then clear shrink tube over the entire shebang.
Stitching looks excellent, nicely done!
-AJ
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
Yes! The higher quality e-tape is thinner, stronger, and conforms to the cordage shape better. Especially when wrapping a taper.
Plenty of nice colors too with the quality tapes.
-AJ
Last edited:
Matias
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Butte County
It seems to get scuffed enough that I replace it regularly, and take time to inspect things. The 88 is tough stuff, and what gets used for lanyards and climb lines, but I'll use some colored 3M for things like this where I like to color code opposite ends.
I read this whole thread with interest. I have done neither splicing nor stitching and it stimulated thoughts about how all this works. One of these, impractical as it is:
A friction hitch can hold quite a lot, enough indeed to be a life support implement. Why could not the same mechanism be used for a bend or an eye: a hitch on each strand pulling against each other? A friction hitch can be expected to slip initially but is that just because it is not maximally tight? And smaller cord is known to bite harder than thicker cord closer to the rope diameter.
Suppose we start with a pattern like this from Winchman but instead of the figure-8 pattern between strands we form a short two or three wrap coil before switching sides, the hope being that each of those coils will tighten under load?
That would only give us direct friction on the mantle strands. Could one expose the kern at the bitter end and place another series of opposing wraps on it to provide additional hold? Could this be combined with limited stitching to lock everything together? Could the mantle bundles from the exposed section themselves be sewn through the other strand in a form of splice?
A friction hitch can hold quite a lot, enough indeed to be a life support implement. Why could not the same mechanism be used for a bend or an eye: a hitch on each strand pulling against each other? A friction hitch can be expected to slip initially but is that just because it is not maximally tight? And smaller cord is known to bite harder than thicker cord closer to the rope diameter.
Suppose we start with a pattern like this from Winchman but instead of the figure-8 pattern between strands we form a short two or three wrap coil before switching sides, the hope being that each of those coils will tighten under load?
That would only give us direct friction on the mantle strands. Could one expose the kern at the bitter end and place another series of opposing wraps on it to provide additional hold? Could this be combined with limited stitching to lock everything together? Could the mantle bundles from the exposed section themselves be sewn through the other strand in a form of splice?
