Custom Friction Saver Ideas

I know this is an old post but I couldn't resist.

Hi Tyler, Here is a picture of a friction saver I made using webbing a small ring and a Trilock steel carabiner. The carabiner is rated at 45Kn on the major axis and 12 KN on the gate. I incorperated a metal corner trap to help keep the gate from side loading the gate. I still need to add a leather cover and some more stitching. After looking at some stitching patterns in the book ON ROPE I discovered that the X pattern is not nearly as strong as the zig zag.
 

Attachments

  • 272000-P2260001_1_1.webp
    272000-P2260001_1_1.webp
    56.3 KB · Views: 302
The webbing is wrapped around the carabiner and ring multiple times so all the stitching would have to come undone before it would come apart. I need to break test one of these but according to the strength rating of the webbing the weakest point would be 8000lbs.
 

Attachments

  • 272002-P3010026_10_1.webp
    272002-P3010026_10_1.webp
    61.1 KB · Views: 147
TB,

Those look like several that I made from webbing slings too.

Since your stitching isn't adding strength the pattern doesn't make a difference. I have a heavy duty sewing machine so I ran a row of stitches up the outside edges to make the loop into a flat then I ran a couple of rows of stitches to make eyes for the biner/rings.

Great economical solution!
 
Do you have a picture Tom? I would like to see yours.

I sewed the entire length as well but it is hard to see because it sunk into the webbing. I wish that I had a machine but for now it is all by hand.
 
Good job on the hand stitching. The "W-V" pattern you've shown can retain about 70% of the webbing strength. While a "Box-X" pattern only retains about 30%. But, a "W-W" pattern can retain nearly 100%. (reference; ON ROPE, Smith & Padgett, 1996, p240).

However, FWIW, there is a note of caution about the "Bar Stitch" (below) across the end of the webbing:

[ QUOTE ]
"Stitches per inch—This has a direct correlation to the size of the thread used and the stitch type. There is a fine balance between the security of the seam and overstitching. Too many stitches per inch will dramatically affect the strength of the seam by perforating the material. The number of rows of stitching also affects this. While more rows generally increase the strength of the seam, too many perforate the material as well."

(reference; FAA-Handbook-8083-17_Chs_2.pdf)

[/ QUOTE ]

Probably not an issue for what you're doing ... just something to keep in mind ... anyway nice work!


272004-P3010005_1_1.JPG
 
Thanks for the input Single J,

It is good to know that bar stitching can weaken the webbing if sewn in excess. The reason I sewed those bar stitches was to cover the end of the webbing making it a little more streamline. I guess I won't do that again.

There didn't seem to be enough room for the "W-W" pattern with this webbing.

Another pic of the whole foot loop.
 

Attachments

  • 272039-P3010001_1.webp
    272039-P3010001_1.webp
    174.3 KB · Views: 130
Here is a custom pulley saver I just made, the primary ingredient being a Sherrill spliced footlocking prussic I had them make at 8' long. New England tech cord for the prussic. Total cost: about $120. Maybe one day I'll learn to splice my own gear.
 

Attachments

  • 276411-IMG_3872.webp
    276411-IMG_3872.webp
    213.7 KB · Views: 247
[ QUOTE ]
Here is a custom pulley saver I just made, the primary ingredient being a Sherrill spliced footlocking prussic I had them make at 8' long. New England tech cord for the prussic. Total cost: about $120. Maybe one day I'll learn to splice my own gear.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not bad...you may have a little trouble with that grizzly splice. But I may be wrong.

Yea being able to splice opened a lot of options to me when it came to the custom stuff. Basically making the stuff until it is available here though.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Here is a custom pulley saver I just made, the primary ingredient being a Sherrill spliced footlocking prussic I had them make at 8' long. New England tech cord for the prussic. Total cost: about $120. Maybe one day I'll learn to splice my own gear.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would suggest tying a triple overhand loop knot on the 'tech cord'. I've seen double overhand loops come very close to becoming untied with that cordage.
Stay safe.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Here is a custom pulley saver I just made, the primary ingredient being a Sherrill spliced footlocking prussic I had them make at 8' long. New England tech cord for the prussic. Total cost: about $120. Maybe one day I'll learn to splice my own gear.

[/ QUOTE ]

I wonder about the scaffold knots tied to the Pinto coming out easily for the retrieval. Splicing directly to the Pinto would be a cleaner option. I attached a picture of my working prototype. The final version will probably use 16 strand Bluestreak instead of the 3/8 tech cord. I'm calling it the FreedomSaver. Similarities to other products are just a figment of your imagination. Let Freedom Ring.
 

Attachments

  • 276655-210633_165026836886902_100001387612504_390237_1743511_o.webp
    276655-210633_165026836886902_100001387612504_390237_1743511_o.webp
    40.6 KB · Views: 179
Yeah, Rich H recommended the Patriot as well. Who is the manufacturer?

I used a piece of lawn mower drive belt to open the eye. I made one a while back that used some wire rope inside a piece of rubber hose. Eventually the wire worked its way through the rope and I changed the setup.
 
Hey Petry I have one that I was working on that I used a spring and inserted the spring inside a rubber tubbing and then sealed the ends with shoe goo that has seemed to work pretty well.
 
Alright, I got my Pinto pulley in today. I worked up some ideas in study hall today and I'm going to use Yale XTC Plus, and blue tenex for the set up, trying to keep with the red/white/blue idea. Don't mean to steal your idea Cory, just trying to support the FreedomSaver and stay true to it.

Still going through some ideas for the material in the eye. I'm going to hit up the AceHardware near my house soon, see what kinda things they have that may work well.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Petry I have one that I was working on that I used a spring and inserted the spring inside a rubber tubbing and then sealed the ends with shoe goo that has seemed to work pretty well.

[/ QUOTE ]

That is an awesome idea if my next attempt fails I'm going to try that.

Good luck ranger. I used wire rope in mine but have an idea for a replacement (i really dont like the idea of wire inside) My local hardware shop has "o ring stock" I was told by a friend that works there it's just a spool of o ring material. I'm going to check into it the end of next week and see if any of it is thick enough. Keep us posted when you finish!
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom