Custom Friction Saver Ideas

YoungBuzzer

YoungBuzzer

Location
SE PA
I am new to the Buzz so I don't know if this has been posted before, so I apologize ahead of time, but I was looking to splice/make up a custom friction saver similar to an ART to save a little money, be custom and of course, give me something to splice! I was hoping something a little more complex (less friction) than just a ring friction saver. Anybody have any clever ideas that wouldn't mind sharing?! Real curious to see what others are using or making.

Post some pics if you can!

Thanks
-Tyler
 
Search for "homemade rope guide" and you should come up with something.

Popular right now is the soft eye rope guide. Splice a long eye in a length of 16 strand. Add a Cocoon on a prusik. Your choice of stopper and a retrieval link, voila! You'll have to stiffen the eye slightly to aid in releasing the Cocoon. Most folks insert a spring or flexible plastic.
 
There are a lot of those threads here. Just about every version of the rope guide has been tried and altered. Sometimes the attempts look horrendous, but we also see some very clean, crisp setups here.

I'd suggest a big ring instead of some sort of a stiffener to TLHamel's suggestion...but there are many, many ways to skin this cat.

love
nick
 
I've thought about using a pear shaped "ring". Not a screw link, but a formed pear shape. I think the pulley would come out of that easiest. All in all, I think the rope guide set-up is more hassle than its worth. Well, for me anyway.
 
I have a home made rope guide with a Petzl Willams instead of a big ring and if installed properly comes out smooth. I also used a 8mm bee line eye n eye instead of the Ice loop to attach the caccoon to the rope.
 
I actually did the same thing a few years back cbugg.It was kinda cool the carabiner seem to make it easier to re tie in and move the system because you did not have to take the rope out of the pulley -just un clip and re clip.I really think that would be the best option for a rope guide because of its versatility.Just got to find the right size caribiner and maybe a tapered cone for the pulley.Also tie maybe an 8 coil prussik with 10m bee line so it cannot pull thru the carabiner
 
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I actually did the same thing a few years back cbugg.It was kinda cool the carabiner seem to make it easier to re tie in and move the system because you did not have to take the rope out of the pulley -just un clip and re clip.I really think that would be the best option for a rope guide because of its versatility.Just got to find the right size caribiner and maybe a tapered cone for the pulley.Also tie maybe an 8 coil prussik with 10m bee line so it cannot pull thru the carabiner

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Don't do it! Carabiners ARE NOT designed to be loaded like that, period.
 
I agree. If you want a rope guide buy one. I have used many versions of the rope guide to reduce cost only to discover I have wasted my money.
 
Is it cross loading Norm,would a steel biner make a difference.My point is if they designed a carabiner that would with stand the load it would make the ropeguide more versatile,but I havent used that in years so I guess if norms says its bad dont use it.Has any one ever seen a carabiner actually fail using it during this type of application(with just human weight) or is it more theoretical.
 
I've been off DdRT for so long I'm a bit out of the loop about false crotches.

Norm---why is using a large biner not recommended for a home made rope guide? How does the load compromise the biner?

Maybe a pic???
 
I've used a 50 kn Steel biner with a Buckingham F.S. off and on, for a little while now. I do NOT see any side loading when using it on a crotch where both ends hang free.

However, while on the spar I have seen some minor side loading (only been on a spar once now). Since both ends do not hang clear, and they are cinched slightly around the spar it ever so slightly side loads the biner (depending on the Dia. of the spar). I personally feel safe in this app, take a look at knot-less rigging? If my understanding is right you take a spliced rigging line around the product and clip a biner to the standing end. As the load is applied the biner would be compressed against the wood (cylinder) and either end would be squishing it in a side load.
 
It will pass thru ed but it has a tendency to get stuck if it turns slightly or if there is a splice on the ring decreasing the size(the interior diam) of the ring resulting in stuckage.I had many a free climb retrieving junk thru the years.
 
I also recently made a 3 strand friction saver. Spliced a tight eye for the steel biner, and a stopper on the other end. A prusik for a small ring, it works great. I use the biner for other stuff, and sure beats spending $50 bucks for something that it is so easily made
 
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tendency to get stuck if it turns slightly or if there is a splice on the ring decreasing the size(the interior diam) of the ring

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Got yea, how's about you use a small clevis or shackel on the ring and the eye splice attachted to it instead of the ring? Looks good on paper, can't say I've tried it.
 
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