Clove Hitch

I don’t use clove hitches any more since I shock loaded one once and it literally exploded to a clean line mid air and dropped the load - I will note that the shock load was somewhat in the direction of the axis of the knot - however it was unsettling to see it happen in real time... A round turn is more stable...
I had a similar result early on in my career. I was using a clove backed up by one half hitch to lower chunks of a trunk. One log acted like a yoyo and went spinning down at my brother's feet. He still doesn't let me live that one down.
 
I had a similar result early on in my career. I was using a clove backed up by one half hitch to lower chunks of a trunk. One log acted like a yoyo and went spinning down at my brother's feet. He still doesn't let me live that one down.
I had the same thing happen several years ago. Big chunk of a white oak limb. The clove hung on long enough to clear the deck and then unraveled hurling the piece to the ground. Thankfully not a thing was damaged. I'll tie a water bottle on with one. Cow hitch for me now.
 
I like the clove hitch-half hitch-clove hitch arrangement for attaching throwline to rope.

Also, I have the impression that you thoughtfully laid out the setup for the video, but your kitchen seems too acoustically "live" for the best audio.
Have you tried using a Pile Hitch for attaching a throw line to rope? It's very fast to tie and untie.
 
Have you tried using a Pile Hitch for attaching a throw line to rope? It's very fast to tie and untie.
I have not. If it's very secure, looks like a good knot.

I've tried a cow hitch about a foot from the end of the climbing rope. Guy in the video I watched liked it, but it didn't work well for me. It's like trying to pull a bight through limbs and crotches. I have fewer problems with the throwline attached very close to the end of the rope. I've pulled the end clove hitch off the rope before; glad the redundancy kept me from being back at square one.
 
I have not. If it's very secure, looks like a good knot.

I've tried a cow hitch about a foot from the end of the climbing rope. Guy in the video I watched liked it, but it didn't work well for me. It's like trying to pull a bight through limbs and crotches. I have fewer problems with the throwline attached very close to the end of the rope. I've pulled the end clove hitch off the rope before; glad the redundancy kept me from being back at square one.
I usually attach it a foot from the end of the rope. If it's a really tight crotch, then I will add half hitches to the end of the rope and finish it with a Clove hitch.
 
I have not. If it's very secure, looks like a good knot.

I've tried a cow hitch about a foot from the end of the climbing rope. Guy in the video I watched liked it, but it didn't work well for me. It's like trying to pull a bight through limbs and crotches. I have fewer problems with the throwline attached very close to the end of the rope. I've pulled the end clove hitch off the rope before; glad the redundancy kept me from being back at square one.
I leave a loop tied at the end of my throwline and girth hitch my throwball, then girth hitch my rope backed up with half hitches right to the end, simple and effective
 
I leave a loop tied at the end of my throwline and girth hitch my throwball, then girth hitch my rope backed up with half hitches right to the end, simple and effective
I do same, make the loop just big enough to fit throwball through, and it even snags less in the tree, as well as being fast to remove and replace if you can pull back a missed throw…
 
Clove to me is a continuous direction like Round Turn, both in contrast to the counter-torque reverse of Backhand base in Cow.
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So we expect some walk in Clove, to probably tighten, but that can go too far seems. We see this even in kinda 'Double Clove' of a Taut Line; we backup the hitch and it might walk tight to that backup. Certainly no less in a 'Single Clove' then.
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Note how the Backhand Turn in Muenter, Cow, Prusic etc. do not have this so much. There is the counter torque turn, in both legs thru (ie. not Muenter) the Standing Part can track into the Bitter End and if anything exhibit pull from end from that motion, as it also serves the crossing 'bar' tighter too, all in 1 motion.
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Pile is very special to me, as is Sailor's Hitch; in that they both start out with/should be loaded from, the Crossed Turn side, that then is followed by a BackHand Turn. Sailor doesn't return Bitter End to Standing Part for backup Half Hitch etc. also, places the Bitter End on the opposing side from the pull, which can be in the dirt in lowering branches etc.
Load-pile-sailors-icicle-by-crossed-not-backhand-turn-side-png8.png

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My solution was always to use a 1" loopie choked that evolved to be mini-Dyneema sling(thanx Tom), always favoring to DBY kept in end of line, need more than that precede with Half Hitch on Load to sling usually. Extra parts but very modular, so very flexible build. Can preset loopies on targets, ground can disconnect line put previous sling in DBY and reel back up to climber that is ready to just connect and go. Especially when send a number of things down at a time. Work cycles of previous slings up as undoing present ones for next up. Sling /carabiner very useful universal grab and connect, bending lines out of the way, for less or more frictions , speed line, hand hold etc.
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i don't believe in a Running Bowline so much for lowering, as should always have a right angle pull and with rope on Load, but most likely will hang lengthwise, not right angle. Lengthwise is where ABoK goes from Timber to Killick. The preceding Half Hitch to me acts as a converter for this action. It also now gives 3x180 arcs for a more 2Dimensional grab on the Load, where simple running eye types only give 1x180 for 1D pull, and minimal grab.
Force-dimensions-4of4-multi-dimensional-load-needs-multi-dimesnion-support-from-rope-etc.png


Rope is just another, very easy, material to build a geometry of support in, but is ruled the same as other materials in that geometry. Rope as a flexible class support, is formable at room temperature, without tools nor heat, hammer etc. Only forged rigid when loaded. It still works like a chain of geometric components, and also provides it's own chain of connection! If host is round, then we can get key180 arc from this. If linear faced host like 4x4, then can not get key 180 arc. The host is the form as for making plastic or metal arc(h) only can't remove form from rope, form must stay in place to lend the rope the arc architecture shape that is then loaded.
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Key 180 arc is a full range of deformity, therefore over a span area the whole structure seats with FULL ROPE TENSION to the host for FULL FRICTIONS. Lesser rope parts perhaps nominal/minimal frictions by comparison. The 180arc also unique as is the ONLY time a segment pulls/pushes SAME DIRECTION at BOTH ends, so that the WHOLE ARCHITECTURE, pulls/pushes the same DIRECTION AS 1. This affords 'wonders of the Ancient world' arches of support etc. Rope arc has the same miracle geometry of a legendary stone bride arc.
*In stone (doesn't support tension well)bridge all of arc as 1 loads in same direction as compression simply vs. in rope (that can't support with compression)arc loads totally as 1 in as tension only support. Same principle in ported in opposite direction, thru the arc form.
 
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