Bullring rigging device idea

southsoundtree said:
If the bollard diameter is 2.5" OD, the ring could be close to 3.5-4" ID; the rest is wasted space, and more material/ weight and bulk.
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I agree.. what is the max diameter rope ever used as a climber rigger? For myself arbormaster 13mm is the MAX size. Some even go down to 3/8”.. if the space between the ring and bollard is 3/4” that should be more than enough. The sling may present a conflict with such tight tolerances.

One potential nice feature could be some type of cleat fairlead. Like you find a sailboat, just a tapered groove with teeth. The tail can be placed in this after the needed amount of pre slack is paid out to get the piece to drop past the climber, then the climber could use both hands on the saw, make a controlled cut, stow saw, reach over and lower WITHOUT having to undo half hitches on the pegs
 
OD 7", ID 5"on the ring, that means the space between the bollard and the ring would be 1..25 "
 
Is your ring 1" thick? My armchair guess is that a small POW is about 1/2" bar-stock. About 4x's the cross-sectional area.

Small and light is right, IMO.

More wear surfaces are good, but wearing out a LD is hard to do. Better lighter and have to buy a new one in 5 years, than lugging a heavy one around for 10 years, which means it will never wear out, because if its too heavy, it will be left on the ground.






Can it work effectively with a basal configuration?
 
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Yes, 1" thick ring. Thank you for all suggestions. The only way to know about a basal configuration would be to try it, however I think there are already better base mounted systems.
I think this would be intended for lowering from the tree, It may be that with the fourth wrap around the bollard. the rope will "cleat" between the rope and the stay, as it jams against the last wrap and the stay.

In addition, you could rig two lines at once, if your anchor is moved to the cross member side of the ring. Then you can use the 1" ring as your dia., and wrap either tail, one on one side of the bollard, and one on the other side.
 
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When is there are other LD, equally as good or better, or not, you want something that is multi-functional, and doing something the others don't.

If you have a POW for the base, are you likely to buy a second lowering device that can replace the POW only for topside friction?

A $3 ratchet strap (choke long strap around, ratchet-buckle down) holds up a POW easily, so it's not floppy when negative rigging, and to aid in loading/ tensioning. Should do the same for a Bullring, if the hook fits.
 
www.wesspur.com

Conterra Scarab

The Scarab Rescue Tool is a stainless steel tool that excels at easily controlling heavy rescue loads, pick-offs, twin rope systems, and other rescue techniques. The Scarab is strong, does not twist ropes, and allows quick adjustment of friction with easy lock-offs and ambidextrous use. Single...
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RopeShield said:
www.wesspur.com

Conterra Scarab

The Scarab Rescue Tool is a stainless steel tool that excels at easily controlling heavy rescue loads, pick-offs, twin rope systems, and other rescue techniques. The Scarab is strong, does not twist ropes, and allows quick adjustment of friction with easy lock-offs and ambidextrous use. Single...
www.wesspur.com www.wesspur.com
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I've never seen one in person. I'd like a demo.
Where do you put the sling?
 
Not sure I would like to drop heavier rigging loads on to the scarab as its heat dissipation and shock load capacity would be limited. However I would like to see a rigging grade device using its principle...
 
There is locking one as well from CMC.
Traverse 540 I am giving a go this winter because of the break and release lever and lessening of impact load. Love my belay spool and rack. Figure eight can't be bit for most light rigging around 200 to 300lbs. Can't stand any of the ring type tools just soley based on non midline attach
Clutch is getting close to what we need if it can be affordable for arbos

CMC CLUTCH™ BY HARKEN | CMC PRO

The all-new CLUTCH is a multi-purpose, wearable tool suited for efficient hauling, controlled lowering, smooth personal descent, easy ascending, belaying, and twin-tensioning.
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surveyor said:
I think for light rigging, which is automatically held independent of the climbers grip, and then released by the climber after the cut, I think what would work is a rigging wrench above, and an anchored dedicated rigging Bulldog Bone on the tail next to the climber?
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Or just a bone with a larger radius to bend over and maybe another arm to add friction if desired? Bulldog rig?
 
I remember when looking at rope grabbing devices that quite a few "Harken-ed" back to earlier stuff. Linear rope grabbing devices are quite neat. Winch rope wheels also have commonality. Last week a guy came to buy a cabinet from my neighbour and starts out tying it down with normal tie downs and elastic hooks. Then he has a eureka and pulls out from behind his truck seat old dirty beaten up tiny plastic ratcheting grab wheel 1/4" rope tie downs that are a miniature version of the $600 Harken CMC clutch. I am since trying to locate some for myself they worked so well. The ones I've found don't look like the ones he had.

Don't forget the 292 version of rigging wrench has a ratcheting wheel "pulley" inside.

I think people's experience with the belay spool has been that the extra full wrap increment really makes the effective wrap power jump, perhaps too much. Portowraps can go 1/2 wrap at a time for smaller jump sizes.

Some thoughts.
 
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