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Wow....I set out to show the possible failure of an improperly tied, dressed, set and configured knot, my expectations were exceeded. Thanks to each and everyone of you for your valuable input and contribution to making climbing safer.
Moss I hope you don't mind but I think your example and explanation is the perfect example of the "how to do it right" way.
again, thanks to each of you!!!!!!!
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Richard, I like your demonstration of accidentally clipping into the bight of the Yosemite tie-off. I use a Running Bowline frequently for a cinched SRT anchor, have been for years. I believe a well tied and set Bowline with a Yosemite tie-off (I like to put the tail up through the opposite side, it snugs up better) is life support quality but I don't let the fates intervene when a knot will be run up the rope nearly out of sight. I leave enough tail above the Yosemite tie-off to finish it with a double overhand knot around the line above the Bowline. Anyway... it's ridiculously bomb-proof, easy to add in, and still easy to quickly untie the whole deal no matter how hard it's been loaded. I've been ridiculed in the past for making a double backed up Running Bowline but then again I'm still here. ;-)
Like so:
As far as attaching to a carabiner goes, never ever liked a Bowline, just the fact it is non-cinching on the biner is enough to reject it for that use.
-AJ
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Mate, your video/demo counts for nothing.... Dressed or not, the knot wasn't loaded. Its like putting an unloaded friction hitch on a line, shaking it about until it slides up and down, then saying a friction hitch is unsafe.
Moss' knot is a good knot, but for you call it 'the right way'? Please define 'the right way ' ?