Bluemoon splicing translation

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evo

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Hey I'm going to splice some bluemoon 11.7mm double braid. I'm going to be using some home made fids. Can any one here tell me the fid lengths in inches? Also how long is a sort section?
Thanks.
 
i put the fid measurements on wikipedia! just search the word fid and you'll find it.

A short fid is 1/3 fid, and long fid is 2/3 fid. A long fid is shorter than a fid!

What kind of fids are you using?

love
nick
 
wow thanks that was quick.. Just some sanded and shaped lengths of alum. tubing from the hardware store.
 
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Hey I'm going to splice some bluemoon 11.7mm double braid. I'm going to be using some home made fids. Can any one here tell me the fid lengths in inches? Also how long is a sort section?
Thanks.

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If I can make out the fid specs that are in the Yale DB instruction, it looked like the Yale specs are slightly different than some "standard" fid lengths I have seen.

Certainly different than the 24 diameter sort of advice Brion Toss gives on his DVD.
 
I've recently started to do my own splicing, and I have been wondering a few things (regarding double braid):


I've followed the Toss method as well as following the Yale method. I've looked at a couple more but they are mostly pretty similar.

* The Toss dvd shows stuffing the core in first and and most other splicing instructions (Yale, Sampson, nerope, etc) show stuffing in the cover first. Anyone know why this is?

* Lots of variety in how much tapering of the cover and core between methods. For example, BT doesn't taper the core except at the end and most other methods show removing some of the strands of the core before cutting the end at a taper. What do most folks do here?


* Lots of variation on lock stitching the splice. From the Yale whiplock to the locking that Sampson and nerope show ( a few in and out loops and then a few more at 90 degrees. BT just takes a thread of the cover and runs it through a few times.

I've been told some rope manufacturors are sending out splices now with no lock stitching at all. Hard to know what is appropriate here, although I would not be comfortable without some sort of stitiching.

Learning to splice is kind of addictive...
 
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* The Toss dvd shows stuffing the core in first and and most other splicing instructions (Yale, Sampson, nerope, etc) show stuffing in the cover first. Anyone know why this is?

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Just a difference in technique. The finished product is identical. I've tried both and prefer putting the core in first.

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* Lots of variety in how much tapering of the cover and core between methods. For example, BT doesn't taper the core except at the end and most other methods show removing some of the strands of the core before cutting the end at a taper. What do most folks do here?

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I taper the last half of the core tail. If the rope allows it, I'll bury a longer core tail so that I can have a smooother taper.

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* Lots of variation on lock stitching the splice. From the Yale whiplock to the locking that Sampson and nerope show ( a few in and out loops and then a few more at 90 degrees. BT just takes a thread of the cover and runs it through a few times.

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As long as there are a few stitches to hold the eye together while it is getting tossed around and just before the chinese-finger trap action sets in, you'll be fine. A full on whipping is overkill, in my opinion.

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I've been told some rope manufacturors are sending out splices now with no lock stitching at all. Hard to know what is appropriate here, although I would not be comfortable without some sort of stitiching.

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I don't believe that Blaze, Poison Ivy, Tachyon, and Velocity really need to be stitched. The finished splices are just about rock hard. The way the double braid splice is- I just can't see it coming apart. I've taken apart many a double braid splice and it takes a lot of work.

For now we have to follow ANSI, which says to follow what the manufacturers say. I look forward to when Yale, Samson, and NER say we don't have to stitch these ropes.

At the end of the tachyon directions it say something to the effect of, "IF REQUIRED, stitch the rope."

Required by who?

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Learning to splice is kind of addictive...

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Very!

love
nick
 
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Biggest hassle I've found with Blue Moon is trying to make marks that you can actually see

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sh_mtl_slv_on.jpg
 
Well it took about three hours but I finally did it. Did I also mention it was used? I lost the core about 3 times, and it bunched slightly going in the throat of the eye. I'm about to google a wire fid, but in the mean time do you have any pictures of one in detail? easy enough to make?
 
No pics or google necessary. Just grap a piece of stout wire (coat hanger thickness is good. Some people use piano wire) fold it in half. Now instead of pushing the fid through, come in backwards, grab the tip the the rope and pull it through. It's a lot easier.

love
nick
 
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No pics or google necessary. Just grap a piece of stout wire (coat hanger thickness is good. Some people use piano wire) fold it in half. Now instead of pushing the fid through, come in backwards, grab the tip the the rope and pull it through. It's a lot easier.

love
nick

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So far I am only using the Toss wand, but I want to try the wire technique as my brother says he finds it easier to not snag the core with.

It's probably old news, but I came up with an easy way for me to run a db splice home.Basically I use a frition hitch to grab the fat part of the rope and yank/milk the splice home in a few stages. Is a miracle for me in terms of ease of use and sparing my hands.

In the final stages of running splice home, I milk from the tied knot to fat part of splice by hand in front of the hitch. Then I can grab the cover of the lower section of the splice with the hitch(where the rope starts to get fat) and yank using a hammer handle wrapped with the end of the hitch rope.

A few yanks/pulls, ease the knot out a couple inches and repeat until the hitch reaches the eye. Slide down the hitch, massage spliced area and repeat. It's amazing how easily the splice keeps closing, even when a hammer snapped in the eye is no longer impressing the splice.

Here's the knot and here's a tight eye that I closed in less than five minuts with the rope. (Disclosure, I previously posted these on AS). The exact knot doesn't matter, but I had my best luck with a fairly big diameter cord (to grab without squeezing so much) and a three wrap blakes. YMMV

splice_knot_small.jpg


second_splice.JPG
 
Good trick with the hrc milker. I use 3/8 bungee (which is actually the subject of a little how-to video I'm working on!) to do the same thing. Sure saves the hands when you have a lot of splices to do (or even just one!)
 
Beautiful splices, B_R !

As for marking the rope, any merit to simply stitching in some
dayglo pink or orange or ... thread ?

*kN*
 
For some splices I don't use marker. I'll use a piece of thread as flagging. When I'm done, I can pull the thread or twine out and the splice is finished with no marks on it.

I think that's what you're talking about, right kN?

love
nick
 
Hello,
For what it's worth, tucking the core first has a couple of significant advantages. If you tuck the cover first, you have to keep it from sucking back inside while you are dealing with the core. This typically means hitching it around the core after tucking, and then you have to unhitch later. More steps. Tucking the core first also gives you a recognizable splice sooner. This is particularly valuable when you are learning the splice, as things are confusing enough at best. The fewer steps you have to make, and the simpler those steps are, and the better you can track what you are doing, then the better and quicker you will splice.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
 
I'd really like to see the splice with the core tucked first. For some reason it makes since to me but I cannot conceptualize it into steps. I'm not confident enough as a new splicer this was my second (double braid), and my 1st was 16 strand.
It's nice to know that you are a stone's though away Brion, and hope to meet you at some point.
Jesse
 
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