Beech Blocking

[ QUOTE ]
...No there was not a scratch on the driveway or anything else. Thanks again

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep. You did well with the large chunks of wood coming out of the tree. That lowering device is the ticket!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Reg, another quick question. Did you preload the Yale Polydyne line to take a lot of the slack out first or did you just take wraps on the bollards and use the elastic properties of the nylon inner core?

Fantastic rigging as usual!

[/ QUOTE ]

Chris we did Pre load the lines, but more to remove the slack to prevent any burning around the knots and hitches. We didn't go crazy with it though. Thanks

Reg
 
Hey Reg (or other guys...)

I'm new in the sector and i ve some questions about this:

- On photo 11, you use a friction saver (whoopie, or something like that, no?) with a pulley. I presume you keep the climbingline there for doing the facecut, and after that you remove the climbing line, but do you hav to climb back to remove it or ... ?

- Do you put your flipline under or above the riggingpoint? And why?

Thanx!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Reg (or other guys...)

I'm new in the sector and i ve some questions about this:

- On photo 11, you use a friction saver (whoopie, or something like that, no?) with a pulley. I presume you keep the climbingline there for doing the facecut, and after that you remove the climbing line, but do you hav to climb back to remove it or ... ?

- Do you put your flipline under or above the riggingpoint? And why?

Thanx!

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes I have to climb back to retrieve it, but its not a big climb, only 6ft or so. An alternative method might be to hang from the tag line, backed up by your flipline of course....that way your not likely to forget and get ripped out of the tree.

Personally I put both lines above under normal circumstances; That way my lines don't get trapped and scorched, leaving me free to descend or be rescued if it came to that. I'll leave about 1ft between the sling and the cut so if the tree gets rattled my lines have a good safety margin from the top of the spar. None of this is advice though, I'm just telling you my personal preferences.
 
[ QUOTE ]
What is the largest sling that will fit in that 5/8 block?

[/ QUOTE ]

Probably bigger but I'd stick to 5/8 if I were you.
 
Right or wrong, this is what I do. I choke my lifeline above the sling, which is placed close to the top of the stem. Choked, it won't come off. However, even so, it could, so I prefer to place my steel core lanyard below the sling, but above the block, as there's a space for it there to not be trapped, as the block is thicker. I understand that this isn't optimum, as the sling can be pulled down from the forces involved, and could still trap the lanyard.


Alternatively, an adjustable friction saver can be used, through which the lifeline is run, which eliminates the rope trappage issue, or any problems were the stem to crack open, as sometimes happens.

The reason for placing the block and sling within about 6-8 inches of the top is to reduce the free fall moment....which can also be further reduced with rapid slack removal...which requires a ratcheting lowering device.

Pretensioning the load also takes all the slack out of the system, and will actually open up the kerf of the cut being made... contributing to the reduction of the free fall moment. With these methods, since the log's center of gravity will fall less before braking is applied, it is possible to stop it's downward movement quite quickly when needed, say, when the working room has diminished low down on the stem.

Again, while Reg's system doesn't allow for all of these techniques, it is surely bombproof with its redundancy....and that is a good thing.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
What is the largest sling that will fit in that 5/8 block?

[/ QUOTE ]

Probably bigger but I'd stick to 5/8 if I were you.

[/ QUOTE ]

3/4" will fit

It's best to run a larger sling, as it takes twice the load of the rope.

Or a spectra sling....my 5/8th one is rated at about 50,000 lb tensile. But it should have some chafe tubing to protect against burning...which, along with the zero stretch, is a problem with using such full static slings.
 
[ QUOTE ]
thanks for sharing, what do you guess those pieces were weighing in?

jp:D

[/ QUOTE ]

Throughout the video, between 3 - 800 kg.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
What is the largest sling that will fit in that 5/8 block?

[/ QUOTE ]

Probably bigger but I'd stick to 5/8 if I were you.

[/ QUOTE ]

3/4" will fit

It's best to run a larger sling, as it takes twice the load of the rope.

Or a spectra sling....my 5/8th one is rated at about 50,000 lb tensile. But it should have some chafe tubing to protect against burning...which, along with the zero stretch, is a problem with using such full static slings.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry, didn't look carefully the at question before I answered, thanks Rog. Of course, your sling should always be stronger than the rope that runs through it.

[ QUOTE ]
that will fit in that 5/8 block?

[/ QUOTE ]

You mean in the photo's? Its actually a 3/4 block with 3/4 sling, but the rope is 5/8.
 
I thought the blue block was 5/8. Excellent coverage as always, do you figure the cameraman in the bid.
grin.gif
 
The discussion of placing one's safety line above or below the block has a long history. I don't even know what's considered "normal" anymore. I place mine ABOVE the sling almost exclusively now, unless there's a reasin to do otherwise. The other day I was blocking down a dead pine tree. Lanyard set above sling. When the piece went over, the sling (whoopie) sheared the bark off and slipped down about a foot before locking on. If I had been safetied below the sling, I'd have shot down that foot with it, and my lanyard might have prevented it from choking as soon as it did. I'm with Reg, I'll take my chances above the sling.
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom