Adjustable False Crotches???

Thanks for the pics that seems like it would work pretty well, I will take some of how I do it, just another way to accomplish the same thing.
 
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Treespotter, are you using the clevis on the lower ring to catch the knotted end of the rope when you pull the FC out of the tree? It looks like it but I guess the knot would have to pass throught the pulley and still catch on the clevis, a little tricky if that's what you're doing.

Also I really like the pulley you're using. I've tried to get one in the U.S. but have had no luck. It looks like the same pulley used in the Rope Guide. Any chance I can get you to pick up a couple for me? :-)
-moss

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Sorry Moss,

There is a spliced eye on my rope (both ends) so in my case there is no problem of a knot passing the pulley. The spliced eye is just thick enough to get stuck in the clevis and not thick enough to get stuck in the pulley.

I think Sherrill does the ART rope guide so they must have the pulley in stock as a spare part

http://gear.sherrilltree.com/iwwida.pvx?;products_no_tree?comp=she&cat=WORK

Check the ropes/friction reducing devices

/forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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Treespotter,
I have tried to replicate this type of friction saver that you show. But the large ring slides down the length of the webbing as weight is put on the pulley. Have you had this problem, and if so, how have you overcome it?
Thanks, Russell.

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Yup, that happens to me as well sometimes.
* It can help if you chocke the FS tighter around the stem or branch.
* Is the prussic pulled tight before installation?
* Is your dyneemaa sling thin enough?
* Or is the prussic that is on there nicely dressed... If so DON'T.

My prussic is made of the most thin sling I can find (Mammut or DMM) and it is not particulary nicely dressed (just wrapped around)
 
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Treespotter,
I have tried to replicate this type of friction saver that you show. But the large ring slides down the length of the webbing as weight is put on the pulley. Have you had this problem, and if so, how have you overcome it?
Thanks, Russell.

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You could also just use a length of rope instead of webbing.

Does anyone know why ART now uses webbing instead of rope for the RG? What are the benefits?
 
IMO a frictionsaver is not only used to make life of a treeworker easy, it also should protect the tree from getting damaged.
My early models had a rope instead of a webbing. Problem here was that the prussic slided more (unwanted) easy and the bark of the branch where the FS was placed was sometimes ripped off due to the higher pressure (small point of contact).
I than switched over to fluffy hollowbraid and that eliminated the bark-ripping completely but than the sliding of the prussic with the ring got worse.

The webbing (is made from a Cresto FC) does the trick in non ripping and non sliding the best.
If there is still a chance of bark ripping I use the FC the old fashion way by working thru the both rings with the climbing rope (something that is not possibile with the ART FC).
 
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There is a spliced eye on my rope (both ends) so in my case there is no problem of a knot passing the pulley. The spliced eye is just thick enough to get stuck in the clevis and not thick enough to get stuck in the pulley.

I think Sherrill does the ART rope guide so they must have the pulley in stock as a spare part

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Ok, that makes sense, spliced eye makes it possible.

It seems that it's very difficult to get components of the ART system in the U.S. I checked with Sherrill a while back, it was a no go. I notice that various european arborist suppliers sell all kinds of ART components, next time I'm in Europe (hmmm, that could be a while) I know what I'll be looking for.
Thanks,
-moss
 
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I think Sherrill and Fresco both sell the components. Does anyone know if Bailey's or others do?

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I just checked the Sherrill catalog again, they don't carry the ART pulley separately, I talked to them on the phone a couple months back and they didn't carry it then. Looking at the Fresco site they have something (no photo) called the ART Rope Guide replacement sheave, at $13, would be sweet if the pulley could be had for so little but I don't think so. The sheave must be the rectangular clevis?

It's no big deal, I just like that little pulley.
 
I use a ring/ring friction saver. I have experimented with the Rope Guide (I ordered the ART block from Fresco and built my own) and find that the added friction at my climbing hitch renders it (the hitch) unusable. I have tried different rope lengths, wrap variations, rope types, compatability issues, knots, etc. I am not interested in using the Lock Jack, or other mechanical hitches. What are y'all using to overcome this friction dilemma? I weigh 170 lbs. plus gear.
 
Good question TLHamel.

Also, if you don't want to just yank the ring and ring FC out of the tree for fear of damaging it on rocks etc, and for fear of it Indiana Jonesing around a limb on the way down, how do you let it down easy?
 
Doesn't the throwline get wrapped around the TIP? Cuz it's going thru both rings even though the climb line is now going thru just 1 ring.
 
Yes, but it still comes down quite easily. The FC will fall quickly to the ground if I don't keep a hand on the throwline. On one occasion I was unable to retrieve my FC using the throwline backup because the tree was a very densely-branched "Tilia cordata" (little leaf linden) with co-dominants and included bark unions EVERYWHERE.
 
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