A different way to descend on rope.

sohner

sohner

Location
Northern California
When it comes to getting down out of a tree this technique can be utilized for ease and comfort. The method can be used for either single line or a double line.

In years past a similiar technique was shared with me by Knute Folpi. Same basic design only modified to suit my needs , wants and desires...

Simple fast and effective to descend on. Not for going up but great for getting down.
 

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When you showed me this, I was real surprised I had not thought of it before.

It takes a good mind to come up with these deceptively simple but so effective methods.

I have always thought that the process of hooking up a figure eight was dangerous.
The reason is, that when I go up the rope, my hands are tired so I always worried that I would drop the figure eight when I unhooked it from my saddle to mount on the rope.
My solution was to attach the figure eight to my saddle by hooking the biner on the LARGE ring, feeding the rope onto the figure eight then unclipping the biner from the large ring and re-attaching it to the small ring.

With your method, I now can tie the prussik cord leaving the figure eight attached to my saddle (on an accessory loop), then when the figure eight is captivated on the rope, simply switch the biner from the accessory loop to a primary attachment point.

Thanks Sohner! Made my life a bit easier, and with the back up prussik, much safer using your trick.

A figure eight IMO, is rather dangerous without a back up because if you let go, you go down.
 
This works well; is safer than a lone 8; doesn't need lock-off for a stop and for those that seem to wear their tails out-should save'em(i don't have that problem).

i showed some around'ere this; and they had more of a problem with twisting the line. It is much better if you make sure that the end of the line is inline with the top of the line as it goes through the 8. In DdRT there seems to be more of a problem with this; for if you start high on descent you will have plenty off line on the ground and it is harder for any twists to work off. The 8 will give some twist; but also be combing off any twists from ill storage memory.
 
Cool stuff. I'm thinking there should be a a way to rig an ATC similarly, the advantage being no twist in the rope

667157.jpg


-moss
 
[ QUOTE ]
I'm thinking there should be a a way to rig an ATC similarly, the advantage being no twist in the rope

667157.jpg


-moss

[/ QUOTE ]

The rope-twisting of a Figure-8 is definitely a problem.

BTW, the photo you show is the 'Guide' model of the ATC.
http://www.bdel.com/gear/atc_guide.php
Regardless, all ATC models have a limit of 11-mm. Beware of this limitation as it won't work with 1/2" ropes if you have them.
 
I've used a few ATCs with 1/2" rope. It works. However, the rope doesn't slide through fast, but that's not a problem.

Sohner, do you tie the prusik knot, then tie it to the figure 8? Why not leave the loop as a loop, prusik it to the line, ten clip it to the 8? Or am I missing something here?

love
nick
 
Thanks Nick! Your suggestion for clipping the hitch cord to the F8 works for an ATC with an attachment point (like the one shown above). Attach the prusik to the rope, clip it to the ATC. I'm looking for a lighter and more compact "hands off stop" rappel alternative to a Grigri for SRT, that might do it.
-moss
 
[ QUOTE ]
Sohner, do you tie the prusik knot, then tie it to the figure 8? Why not leave the loop as a loop, prusik it to the line, ten clip it to the 8? Or am I missing something here?

[/ QUOTE ]

Less moving parts? One less biner in the system?

How about girth the loop to the F8 then prusik it to the rope? Makes it a little more modular but still has the pre-attached loop if you want.
-moss
 
Moss and sohner- I got one for you. You make an eye sling (or I make an eye sling) that has an eye on one end, then maybe 1' of rope hanging below that. Think like a short climbing line, with a 15' eye, and a foot of rope. Then you tie the prusik or klemheist, then use the tail to tie a knot to the 8 or ATC. With the ATC show, you could simple feed the rope through the loop, then tie a slipped stopper knot. A bowline would be fast and easy to remove on the 8.

I think you could make that easy out of 1/4 or 5/16 Yalex.

love
nick
 
How do you descend on a ATC? I've only used 8's and don't know how you would set one up to use? Some one can PM me so to not derail this thread. Thanks
 
Rockclimbers would balk at connecting the F8 to the 'biner,
which has some potential for mischief vis-a-vis torquing the
gate accidentally. Tying the F8 off with its own lanyard raises
it such that the friction h. could be comfortably attached below
it, greatly enhancing its holding power (since it would have the
advantage of the F8 braking).

As for "The rope-twisting of a Figure-8 is definitely a problem",
according to Clyde Soles, this problem is avoided if one keeps
the line straight DOWN (between legs), vs taking it off to one
side, as is natural. Keep the brake hand(s) below the F8 rather
than off to the side (which pretty much requires the F8 to be
well off of the harness on a lanyard).

*kN*
 
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