Treezybreez
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Lancaster, SC
Dremel?
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Precisely. Four equal slots. Use the stihl screwdriver to form the fins. Start with the fartherest and come forward.Dremel?
Badass.I am a regular ms661 in-tree user
I have a buddy who can take down a tree faster than me and rigs really well. He calls my 661 "The Compensator", lol... He's skinny, 6'5", long arms, big hands. He just cuts of 6" 25' limbs with one hand 7 feet our on the limb and the other on his ms201t then chucks them wherever he wants them... Not looking to get into a 1 vs. 2-hand discush, btw... I gave him my ms661 with a dull chain the other day to make an elm spar cut. He tried to avoid getting saw chips on himself, so he's up there with the dogs out of the wood, saw a long way away from his body and up sort of high, struggling to act like he knows what he's doing, lol. I was laughing my ass off. My keys to using a big saw in tree are to not bend my elbows for very long, use the dogs, and use my muscles only to set the kerf.Badass.
For the OP I would agree with others, a 441/461 is a great saw for the price. My 441 ended up with a weird bar combo- 20” and 28”- the 28” is not for all day everyday but it can handle those few big rigs and a fell and is much lighter than a 661. With a 20” it is so fast I hardly feel like I’m working.
We asked dealer for another 5hundo , they said it'll be quite awhile before they can get anotherWould love to try one. I could splurge on it. Heard great things.....
You have to keep the metal shavings from going into the cylinder, right? Does the muffler open up to allow cleaning, or do you use good technique, air compressor, just raw dog it? Thanks for sharing.Precisely. Four equal slots. Use the stihl screwdriver to form the fins. Start with the fartherest and come forward.
I find that’s fairly universal trait in all saws.It noticeably does not always start if left in the sun
I am genuinely interested in hearing how you run a bigger saw in a tree without bending your elbows?My keys to using a big saw in tree are to not bend my elbows for very long, use the dogs, and use my muscles only to set the kerf.
I spent quit a bit of time with the bigger Stihl's today and I am not sure what to think...The 880 was pure shit with a 5 footer, but pulled a 42"-48" like a boss. This is a 121cc saw so it doesnt really get a whole lot of credit from me for pulling a 4 footer. For the money that should a starting point in performance...@rico I've herd the larger huskies are preferred by large tree fallers to stihls. Hell I wish I had more rip in the large maple flares and oaks we takedown. They sure aren't redwoodsized...
@Chris Schultz we are sea level.
We asked dealer for another 5hundo , they said it'll be quite awhile before they can get another
How do you find the balance with the 28” lightweight bar? I’ve got a 25” lightweight bar on my 500i currently and it’s a touch power head heavy. I prefer a balanced saw.I just got my 500i. I was waiting since December. It was well worth the wait. Mine has a 28" lightweight bar which is probably a little short considering the power. After running it a few days I also ordered a 32" bar.
For in tree work it is an amazing saw. Similar weight to my MS362C but a whole bunch more power.
My other big saw for in tree cutting has been my 066. That has plenty of power with the 32" I have it paired with but it is heavy.
Agreed. Around here it goes ms201 to 440 (or similar) to 660. That is pretty much the minimum line up. Now don’t get me wrong it’s nice to have a 261,361.. and the in between models..I read lots of nice things about the 500i, but I haven’t read that it’s a replacement for displacement, so 661 gets my vote.
One day when money ain’t a thang, get some 60, 70, and 80cc saws in the mix too, but a good top handle, a good 50cc, and a good 90cc class is a fine set if a climber can only can have 3 saws.