Hey Miko,
You may want to try one less wrap with the 8 mm cord...4 mm is a big difference in diameter and if you are used to tying your hitches with 10 mm cord it will lead to much more binding. Take one less wrap and if additional friction is needed you can rotate the eyes on the hitch cord to...
I will open up the top setting a couple of clicks and then enjoy the ride...super smooth and silky and I find the sweet spot is bigger in MRS...be safe and have fun
I have heard mention that once you mount a permanent tool box on your chipper it is no longer a piece of equipment, but becomes a trailer...which needs to be registered and plated??? This is hearsay so if anyone else has "heard" this or better yet actually knows the law...that would be great...
This has been an interesting topic to follow along with. I am double vaccinated and believe that Covid is real and does has adverse health effects on people. Particularly vulnerable populations. However, I also believe that there are those looking to exploit this pandemic for personal and...
This is an issue that is near and dear to my heart...and hands, lats, pecs, quads, abs. You name it and it has probably cramped up at some point...once I was suffering from full body cramping. Was getting dangerous and on the verge of calling 911. The only thing that brought me back was Vega...
You could set up your friction saver from the ground first and then ascend up to that point. From there lanyard in and advance (re-direct) your rope to a higher psp. However, it would have to be the perfect throw/union and therefore is probably more efficient to set up after you ascend your base...
The ability to not die if an irresponsible person cuts your anchor leg of rope...but you already eluded to conceding that point. I believe it was Lawrence Schultz who had his base line knicked when working a tree with multiple climbers. Scary stuff...but again not needed for every climb
Very easy to switch over from a base tie ascent to retrivable canobase with the use of a mid line attachable friction saver....lanyard in and have a groundie untie the base anchor. This now becomes the retrieval leg for the knot blocked canopy anchor. With this system I have taken as many as 7...
I have used a canobase anchor when I want to take advantage of a higher tie in point or psp (primary suspension point). When the wood gets smaller and I am not 100% comfortable I will choke the spar (or lead) and re-direct above (while keeping force multipliers in mind). There are other ways to...
So far I really don't hav any complaints...it is comfy, light weight, there are tremendous amounts of gear storage options. I bought a second bridge for it straight out of the gate and I qm happy I did. I switched to a long lanyard (30 ft) with a hitch climber pulley lanyard that I can take off...
The real difference between this style and a specific canopy anchor is friction...I use this style often if I know I will be coming down without any re-directs or for spar work...the friction with this anchor system primarily comes from the bark and can be very difficult or impossible to...
I too had to look up what a "buck strap" was...basically just a blocking version of a canopy anchor. I see no reason why a figure 8 could not work, except possibly that it is a single piece of hardware and the rigidity may cause a problem with cinching on a smaller diameter limb. Definitely...
Absa-totally....foot locking the tail is a very viable way to use your legs when ascending MRS. Just remember that you are covering twice the distance when foot locking the tail vs a traditional secured traditional foot lock. Grab yourself a foot ascender and make your life a lot easier....you...
"Bookmark" your tie in point with paracord or throwline....keeping life support anchored in trees with all of the unknown variables is a bad idea. How is it possible to do a pre vlimb inspection of your gear if it is in the tree? Another valuable thing to consider is that throwline is a skill...