The only time I switch to putting my lanyard on the bridge, is If I percieve a risk of the stem splitting. If it split then my ribs and body etc would not be compressed by the stem seperating causing potentially serious or fatal injury and/or suffocation. Ok I would be stuck but that's not a...
I often put an extra wrap on my lanyard, especially when on slippy or smooth, angled laterals. Usually when i'm taking five as in the pic. or working with hard angles on my climbing line pulling me away from the cut
It's always an eye opener when the tree shifts backwards when the face cut is placed. Did you have any pretension on the line?
Glad it went well in the end Frans
I have come accross a single loose shackle during inspection of equipment in the uk. It turns out that the individual in question had replaced the bridge on the BF11 a few days before the inspection (he had caught it with his silky saw), and thankfully it was noted and potential disaster...
That's bad news indeed. I'm over the hill from you in Huddersfield and in early december my friend had his timberwolf ch35/dh stolen from relatively secure premises. I'm away from home at the moment but I've emailed some of the guy's to keep a look out for it. Don't forget to keep an eye on...
They are an interesting drive, no syncro on those box's. Gotta to remember not to hook your thumbs around the wheel as you will dislocate them if you hit a big bump or hole. Nice toy to have access too.
the stretch air's are amazing, I own 2 pairs now. If you don't have the funds the next best are the SIP's. I still can't get my head around not climbing in chainsaw protective trousers, it's when they are needed the most.
Natanoko, 15ft lanyard, first aid kit, spare vt set up, krabsX2 (one with sling, one with pulley) and rope guide. fig.8,ascender or pantin if needed.
I sometimes feel like a christmas tree with the amount of crap i carry. Looking at the list i can't believe some of you climb without a first aid kit!
That's it apart from the holding wood goes right up to the hinge so there is not a sudden release of the tree dumping loads of pressure on the hinge wood.
I use a notch and a hinge to allow the felling to be directional. the only thing similar is the reduction of wood laterally either side. the hinge is left along the entire face.
For directional felling on heavy leaners i use a notch(scarf) to about 1/4 of the diameter of the tree. i then cut at 90degrees to the hinge as per the coos bay. this leaves me with a reduced area of wood that to cut hence avoiding a barbers chair as the cut can be completed much quicker