felling

I use a notch and a hinge to allow the felling to be directional. the only thing similar is the reduction of wood laterally either side. the hinge is left along the entire face.
 
As a reply to the shagbark,I sliced and diced a 97 footer recently,a windfall,pictures in the TH.The shagbark around here get rather large,often over 100 feet and up to 36" at breast height.

I've noticed these super hard trees are suceptable to rot in the root area and ants for some reason unknown to me.What may appear to be a sound tree in fact is not.Those obsevations may just be a regional thing,I really don't know.
 
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Obviously you disagree with me, but I disagree with you too

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You shouldn't disagree with me, it isn't really a matter of preference.
The larger bar radius on the nose of the bar is more prone to kick back.
It would be the same to disagree on wearing protective chaps.

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It should have been apparent that I totally agree with you about the greater "kickbackness". What I disagree with you about is where you say the larger nose radius does not have greater cutting performance than a smaller one while the tip is buried. There's hardly any comparison.
 
Pete;
This looks like a good method in dealing with a heavy head leaner with good directional qualities.
I think this attachment is similar to what you are explaining.
 

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  • 64645-modifiedcoosbay.webp
    64645-modifiedcoosbay.webp
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Awe shucks Glens,I've bored with the hard nosed bars.All in all it doesn't really make a hill of beans what you use as long as you know how to do it.
 
the thing i don't like about a coos bay cut is that fact that the faller can't stay to the side of the tree while making the initial cuts. i was cutting some red alder a while ago that were so twitchy i wouldn't have wanted to try any cuts like that. i ended up binding the butts on most of them before making any cuts. peace of mind with the ability the direct the fall to some degree.
 
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does not have greater cutting performance than a smaller one while the tip is buried.

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I said that?

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Didn't you?

"are you sure the large Stihl tip is better for boring? I had one once and thought that the bigger tip equaled more kickback zone, notice carving bars with the dime-sized tip?"

That makes it sound like you think the smaller tip is better at the task. I replied by comparing the differences in terms of performance, along with a warning.

Then you said "A large bar radius on the nose wouldn't be the best choice for boring."

Granted, you didn't dispute the performance claims but you didn't acknowledge them either.

The dime-sized tips are most certainly safer but the large ones are the best choice.

A person shouldn't be boring as a matter of course unless they're capable of running the bar best suited to it, IMO, and if they are they should use the best tool for the job. Right?
 
That's it apart from the holding wood goes right up to the hinge so there is not a sudden release of the tree dumping loads of pressure on the hinge wood.
 
Small nosed versus larger nosed boring.

I'm able to use the Stihl small tipped bars for boring just fine as long as I don't have the chain set up too hungry. I.e., square filed/shorter rakers or over hooked round/shorter rakers.

If I have a chain on that I should be using for just green softwood and I'm in hardwood or deadwood with a hungry chain, I have to bore watching my angles very very carefully with the small tip.

Also on some vertical boring, regardless of the tip, gotta have two strong hands and stand offset.

The small tips do require more skill and occasionally some limits.
 
What I'm referring to is the smaller radius vs a large radius not the dime size carving bars that Glen alludes to.
You can bore with any size radius within reason but the smaller radius along with high rpm and sharp cutters will reduce kick back when boring.
That's not my opinion , it's just the way it is.
It's something to consider when purchasing a new bar.
 
Hey, you're the one who brought up the dime-sized bars.

Again, the smaller-radius bars can provide for less torque about the tip of the bar but all things being equal they never have the buried-tip performance of the larger-radius noses. That's all I'm saying and for all your arguing you've never claimed the opposite. So what are you after, anyway?
 
Kevin:

High RPMs can reduce the number of kickback events. But it will not eliminate them and it will increase the power of any kickback that does occur. Putting more force in will help anyone learn about the equal and opposite reaction thingy.
That's not my opinion , it's just the way it is.
 
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