felling

Kevin

I do like the concept of the faller certification process you posted. It recognises that after initial training, a faller needs time to "cement" and hone his skills/knowledge.

Here in SE Australia we have a great variety of native trees. Some Eucalypts in the mixed species areas have shorter grain and different stature to the alpine Eucalypts. In 60 years the alpine Eucs. can achieve 200' and still only be 1.5 - 3' diameter. The other significant difference is that these fast growing trees are very split prone. They are not learner type trees.

When scarfing one of these skinny E. regnans, if it is standing up straight, as the first cut of the scarf is commenced the tree will release back away from the cut. This in turn requires more wedge work. On some, the heads have flopped back as much as 10' just because of the scarf.

Because of the large lever length, if there is an overcut on the scarf, or the hinge is too strong that can cause "barbers chair". The statistics for an ash faller in logging operations used to be, for 15 fallers in a 2 year period, 1 will be killed and 13 will sustain lost time injuries.

In the ranges East of Melbourne where I live and work, there is extensive housing placed into these types of forests. This presents a concern regarding the lower standards of falling qulifications, available to the amenity tree industry.

The falling tickets for logging are divided into, pine, mixed species and ash(alpine). What a learner cannot gain during a training course is time, and I do like the way the material you posted encourages a learner to recognise the need for time.

Graeme
 
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In the ranges East of Melbourne where I live and work, there is extensive housing placed into these types of forests. This presents a concern regarding the lower standards of falling qulifications, available to the amenity tree industry.

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Ahh, the Dandenongs right? Crazy to see so many houses under 200ft+ trees

cool.gif
 
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Today I was felling many tall poplars with room for error so I tried making my notch then a plunge cut leaving my holding wood and a strap - put in my wedges then proceed to cut the strap.


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Just a few thoughts on bore-cut/back release cut.

For a tree with a heavy lean in the felling direction OR a straight tree which is heavily weighted to the felling side....The bore-cut/back release does not eliminate the risk of barber chair completly, barber chairing can still happen with this technique.

I have seen this happen and luckily there was an escape root for the feller. He move off backwards at a 45 degree angle to the stem. The butt end landed 8 ft behind the stump opposite the direction of lean.

The hinge was still too big even though it had been bore-cut.

This method is not bulletproof - beware.
 
Glens

The void between academics and practitioners is alive and well. Many good fallers all over the world have been hurt and killed to evolve the underpinning knowledge and safety that is available to all of us today. It is important not to take a purposeful backward step. The approach to falling a tree is a series of logical steps and decisions.

With 30 years industry experience, 8 years of which, as a high production faller in the "white wood", and until recently only one of 2 independant timber industry faller assessors, I have seen the good guidelines to falling become blurred. This has mostly come from poorly grounded (however well intended), aspiring fallers from the amenity tree industry.

Your stance on the back release seems to avoid recognising why that method was developed (previously discussed). The assessment of the trees lean is done prior to applying a falling method. To apply a "back release" to a tree standing up straight or leaning back, increases your work, works against the forces at the stump and can reduce the fallers safety.

Graeme
 
AxeKnot

I now have quite a nunber of DVDs' that I had edited for various presentations. Which one were you thimking about? There has been alot of enquiries from people wanting copies but I have been very slack. I had intended to put a commentary over them to explain what is being done and why. It would have been like I was talking at the presentations. That way people having a look at them could learn a bit as well as being entertained.

While I am on the subject, sorry about the delay to all the people I have promised copies to.

I guess that is one of the problems with being owner operator of a small business these days, doing the work seems to take priority.

Graeme
 
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To apply a "back release" to a tree standing up straight increases your work, works against the forces at the stump and can reduce the fallers safety.
Graeme

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Graeme,

All the arborists I have ever worked with have always had a pulling rope in the tree when using the back-release cut on straight trees.

The rope is set up so that it is under enough tension to mimic the effect of a leaning tree.

The back-release/bore-cut allows the feller to have an extremely accurate parallel hinge which is of the upmost importance when felling in confined gardens and properties with little room for error.

I would not recommend inexperienced people use the bore-cut/back release, you have to very proficient with a chainsaw to perform this technique accurately, and you only get one chance. So practice on standing logs first.
then small trees with plenty of space.

The back-release cut is a superior cut to the aforementioned quarter cut in my opinion.
 
Greame;

Thanks for the reply.

One more question. In this statement:

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If needed more wedges can follow your final cut provided there is space to the chain.

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what do you mean by "...the chain"? Is that the backcut side of the hinge?
 
Mahk

Sorry, the chain on your saw. As you progress with severing the last quarter, enough gap is created behind the chain to apply more wedges if more lift is required.

This means wedges can now be placed either side of the first, giving max lift at the rear of the tree.

Graeme
 
Axeknot

One of the outcomes of the "back release method is that heavy leaners when released depart violently. This often shakes out dead and fragile limbs. Another outcome created is the increased hazard of working at the rear of the stump. Sometimes the tension created can rip out part of the stump, roots and dirt to the rear without warning. Creating those posibilities with the rope can elevate the risk to the faller.

When I am falling around fixed property, I tend to have stronger hinges as log quality is a lower priority. The "trade off" is that a strong hinge in the E. regnans will cause "barbers chair".

Graeme
 
agree with

I agree with Axeknot.
I haven't seen it, but many others have, you cannot depend on a boring back-cut to eliminate a barber chair. One factor can be the species of tree. For some reason Ash seem prone to this even with what would otherwise be a small enough hinge.

I would suggest a center face bore to go with a boring back as the best cut combo to almost remove the risk of a barber chair.

A faller I respect a lot told me about the possibilty that Graeme mentions. The strap off the back can become a root pull. Make sure that you are not in a position to get whacked or your vision impared by that root kicking free.
 
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Axeknot

One of the outcomes of the "back release method is that heavy leaners when released depart violently. This often shakes out dead and fragile limbs. Another outcome created is the increased hazard of working at the rear of the stump. Sometimes the tension created can rip out part of the stump, roots and dirt to the rear without warning.

Graeme

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I had never thought of either of these possibilities........thanks Graeme.

Its amazing......... all the things I dont know.
 
Is there a problem with "kerfing" or cutting into the hinge before back cutting or triggering the back strap. In Mr. Beranek's book "The Fundamentals of General Tree Work" , on page 309, there's a method referred to as The Coo's Bay. It says this is for head leaners only to help prevent barbers chair. I have always considered myself an average faller with decent skills enough to keep myself and others from getting killed. I'm quite familiar with the back strap technique and use it often. Now to the point...Last week, while working on a steep wooded hillside with tall hardwoods to be flopped for vista clearance of a new subdivision, I had a very close call with a barber chair incident! 85 foot, 18 inch diameter,slight forward lean. The species was a Shagbark Hickory. Strong, strong, wood. It was towards the end of the day and I guess I was complacent and ready to go home. Anyway, because of the Highline in the direction of lean, I thought I would "cheat" the direction slightly and be on my way. I was wrong and like Graeme said earlier this was a perfect candidate where it was easier for the trunk to split up the sides than to break the hinge. I consider myself lucky. I knew the inherent dangers and should have taken a second look. I'm
glad to share this story because it means I'm still alive.
I speant a good twenty five minutes clearing an escape route from the trunk where debris was piled. It was piled there because before we got there, Land clearing crews were there with machines wrecking what they could reach from the comfort of thier cabs.
 
Rog;
Why did the tree barber, any idea?
Did you slow down with the back cut?
I take it the tree wasn't bored?
The coos bay is non directional and I would opt for the side notching technique for better control.
 
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Obviously you disagree with me, but I disagree with you too

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You shouldn't disagree with me, it isn't really a matter of preference.
The larger bar radius on the nose of the bar is more prone to kick back.
It would be the same to disagree on wearing protective chaps.
 
Yes Kevin you are right it wasn't bored (should have been)
To the best of my knowledge I had it wide open. Now that you mention it,logic would suggest I most likely backed off the cut too early. If admitting my mistake or error in judgement prevents one accident then I'm glad I said something rather than being too full of pride.
 
That makes sense Rog.
It's a good reminder for all of us and a clear warning for those that haven't experienced it ... yet.
Thanks for sharing it.
I did the same thing with a small paper birch that was under tension from another tree.
It exploded like a cannon, something that stays with you.
 
For directional felling on heavy leaners i use a notch(scarf) to about 1/4 of the diameter of the tree. i then cut at 90degrees to the hinge as per the coos bay. this leaves me with a reduced area of wood that to cut hence avoiding a barbers chair as the cut can be completed much quicker
 
Pete;
I admit to never using the coos bay but that's contrary to what GF says about it as far as being directional.
 

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