Blue 32!

Evo’s link says the 5000 lbs is the splice break strength, a loss of 20% for the reduced diameter splice?
 
I thought the 5400# standard was that high because they know that any knot will reduce that, and many splices as well. When I read the info sheet I assumed they were bragging that their patent-pending splice was so small, yet still had such great strength.
 
I thought the 5400# standard was that high because they know that any knot will reduce that, and many splices as well. When I read the info sheet I assumed they were bragging that their patent-pending splice was so small, yet still had such great strength.
Think this is all grey area stuff.
My understanding of the 5,400 isn’t so much about swl and knots but more about x2 person loads +/- 540lbs (loaded wi the gear) x 10 for a 10:1..
all convoluted and the reality is if you’re attached to the bitter end it’s going to be on MRS so it’s sharing the load.. so in reality anything 2,200 or stronger is good for a MRS application. Yet I think one would have a hell of a time defending that.
 
Think this is all grey area stuff.
My understanding of the 5,400 isn’t so much about swl and knots but more about x2 person loads +/- 540lbs (loaded wi the gear) x 10 for a 10:1..
all convoluted and the reality is if you’re attached to the bitter end it’s going to be on MRS so it’s sharing the load.. so in reality anything 2,200 or stronger is good for a MRS application. Yet I think one would have a hell of a time defending that.
Petzl defends their 18kn splices based on the strength reduction of knots. It makes sense, but is still a bit unnerving to my programming. I assume Yale is using similar logic.

I swore I'd never trust a petzl splice at full load. Then, while climbing at their facility I discovered the line I was ascending was attached to the ceiling anchor by the splice. At that point I realized- my opinion remained the same, but I was willing to acknowledge the facts.
 
Petzl defends their 18kn splices based on the strength reduction of knots. It makes sense, but is still a bit unnerving to my programming. I assume Yale is using similar logic.

I swore I'd never trust a petzl splice at full load. Then, while climbing at their facility I discovered the line I was ascending was attached to the ceiling anchor by the splice. At that point I realized- my opinion remained the same, but I was willing to acknowledge the facts.
I re rigged a sailboat using the weathered 5/16 3 strand with a Blake’s and a rock climbing saddle. That shit was spooky!
 
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I missed that when getting started so I recently bought some Sterling WorkPro 12.5mm which meets the spec. Compared to the Samson Voyager and Vortex I've been using it's not nearly as supple and easy to knot. The WorkPro is VERY resistant to twisting, and you'll end up spinning as you climb if there's any twist in the rope between you and the TIP.

Those minor complaints are easy to brush aside as the WorkPro is noticeably smoother and more consistent going through the ZZ. If WorkPro's performance is typical of ropes meeting the spec, it's easy to see why Petzl recommends using them.
 
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I missed that when getting started so I recently bought some Sterling WorkPro 12.5mm which meets the spec. Compared to the Samson Voyager and Vortex I've been using it's not nearly as supple and easy to knot. The WorkPro is VERY resistant to twisting, and you'll end up spinning as you climb if there's any twist in the rope between you and the TIP.

Those minor complaints are easy to brush aside as the WorkPro is noticeably smoother and more consistent going through the ZZ. If WorkPro's performance is typical of ropes meeting the spec, it's easy to see why Petzl recommends using them.
I have a hank of the 12.5mm and a bunch of the 11mm. I don't use the 12.5 as much as I should. It is nice in the ZZ.
 

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