rope runner pro

I can take mine off easily when intentionally trying.
You just have to go easy on the slic pin at that spot.
Don't pull too hard when rotating the pin and you won't have an issue.
 
Swing Rico Moss thanks I've been surprised how mediocre Drenaline seems, been trying to give it a chance. I haven't even used it that long yet, maybe 1/3 life? Was hoping it'd be similar to the good reviews Xstatic gets. Any love for 1/2" lines on the RRP or BDB?

39Buick I haven't reached out to Treestuff yet. I didn't subject it to the screwdriver, but the 5-10 minutes of pin wriggling /maneuvering I gave it when it arrived made the lower 2 slick pins seem reassuringly fixed in there... but 5 easy climbs in, with a DMM Focus swivel in place to mitigate side-loading, and it just popped off like butter and sailed away
 
Swing Rico Moss thanks I've been surprised how mediocre Drenaline seems, been trying to give it a chance. I haven't even used it that long yet, maybe 1/3 life? Was hoping it'd be similar to the good reviews Xstatic gets. Any love for 1/2" lines on the RRP or BDB?

39Buick I haven't reached out to Treestuff yet. I didn't subject it to the screwdriver, but the 5-10 minutes of pin wriggling /maneuvering I gave it when it arrived made the lower 2 slick pins seem reassuringly fixed in there... but 5 easy climbs in, with a DMM Focus swivel in place to mitigate side-loading, and it just popped off like butter and sailed away
Popped off by itself?
Maybe something is wrong with yours.
Can you post some pics of that area?
 
Popped off by itself?
Maybe something is wrong with yours.
Can you post some pics of that area?
No, just when removed to redirect. Wondering what method of pulley-assembly retention Notch will approve without voiding warranty. Or even better, develop themselves so it performs as marketed.
 
i had my pulley off and put it back together wrong, had it upside down. Had no real problem getting it back apart and together right.
It's the little carabiner attachment point that results in major re-disassembly woes, if it is installed facing the wrong way, at least in my one experience.
 
20201019_082749.jpg

So I tried recreating this issue this morning and had a surprisingly hard time, except when it lined up just right. It seems to me that when the inner latch is sitting in the notch on the attachment point, the outer latch can be released if rotated just right on the frame. Specifically if the carabiner attachment is rotated upwards, as it generally would be if it's attached to a harness.

The bottom assembly of my RRP seems to have less play then others I've had my hands on. The bottom plate doesn't swing clear of the slickpin unless I put outward pressure on the pin.
 
every line I’ve used on every mechanical device tends to flatten going through the device. My experience is the slight flattening makes the release smoother not jumpy. Thinking of the buttery gold standard, the (lines formerly known as) Yale 11.7mm double braids which do flatten.

I’m wondering if what Ob2 is reporting Is more about a RR not completely broken in?
-AJ
Between the 'remote learning' -supervising sessions I did a bunch of straight up and downs today with RRP on Scandere. Brand new (discount shorty) other than pulling it through the tree a few times to break it in. It flattened a Lot, more than Drenaline, and was MUCH smoother. (I thought general consensus is broken-in rope is smoother... But I wonder if the fair amount of hitch-based MRS time on my Drenaline has worked some internal kinks / inconsistencies into it that cause the random slips with RRP??).

Or maybe it's more to do with the Bollard setting -- I didn't change it for Scandere's smaller diameter. It took good upward pressure on the bird to get near a stop. (On this same setting with Drenaline, it would let me come down fast but always catch me quickly when released.) Maybe this much slipperier setting is getting closer to the sweet spot for smooth descent, more so than a difference between ropes?

Again this RRP has only 6 or 7 climbs on it now, as Moss pointed out it needs more break-in no matter what rope.

I'd still like to get a 1/2" rope in there for my hands anyway. (Tho I love the hand of Fly but never climbed it, and the Search feature ignores the term because it's only 3 characters... Can anyone point me toward a thread on that rope?)
Thanks gents
 
I have a rr2 in the way. I just skimmed threw a few pages so idk if my question was already answered. I currently have samson velocity 120', teufelberger tachyon ash 200', and xstatic 200'. Whats the best rope.? And will it flatten my rope? Thanks.
 
For SRT the best of those three will probably be the Xstatic. I have some and my RR runs fantastic with zero adjusting. The other two are bouncier and more suited to DDRT but will both work. I have Tachyon and don't like it while ascending SRT but once aloft it's fine. It is durable and smooth with every device/hitch I've run on it and knots great. Never tried Velocity but I have Vortex and I personally think it's a little fat for the RR, so I use it with the HHX. Ropes don't usually stay flat so it isn't much of a real concern IMHO.
 
For SRT the best of those three will probably be the Xstatic. I have some and my RR runs fantastic with zero adjusting. The other two are bouncier and more suited to DDRT but will both work. I have Tachyon and don't like it while ascending SRT but once aloft it's fine. It is durable and smooth with every device/hitch I've run on it and knots great. Never tried Velocity but I have Vortex and I personally think it's a little fat for the RR, so I use it with the HHX. Ropes don't usually stay flat so it isn't much of a real concern IMHO.
Oh alright thanks man i appreciate it. I have no experience with the rrp yet.just spiderjack 3 hh2 and rw2. Figured the xstatic would work the best. Just haven't even used that yet. Just been using velocity and tachyon lately. And i have no experience rope walking either yet. Looking to get into the this coning season. But thanks i heard 16 strands work well with alot of accenders i dont know exactly why yet tho. Maybe tougher hold together better. Like hold there diameter?
 
Between the 'remote learning' -supervising sessions I did a bunch of straight up and downs today with RRP on Scandere. Brand new (discount shorty) other than pulling it through the tree a few times to break it in. It flattened a Lot, more than Drenaline, and was MUCH smoother. (I thought general consensus is broken-in rope is smoother... But I wonder if the fair amount of hitch-based MRS time on my Drenaline has worked some internal kinks / inconsistencies into it that cause the random slips with RRP??).

Or maybe it's more to do with the Bollard setting -- I didn't change it for Scandere's smaller diameter. It took good upward pressure on the bird to get near a stop. (On this same setting with Drenaline, it would let me come down fast but always catch me quickly when released.) Maybe this much slipperier setting is getting closer to the sweet spot for smooth descent, more so than a difference between ropes?

Again this RRP has only 6 or 7 climbs on it now, as Moss pointed out it needs more break-in no matter what rope.

I'd still like to get a 1/2" rope in there for my hands anyway. (Tho I love the hand of Fly but never climbed it, and the Search feature ignores the term because it's only 3 characters... Can anyone point me toward a thread on that rope?)
Thanks gents

These all sound like bollard setting issues and yes as a RR breaks in it gets smoother. My Scandere was super smooth out of the box with my RR. Fly i snice with a broken in Runner, it's is fairly stretchy/bouncy.
-AJ
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ob2
I found after it happened the first time it happens often now. I assume
Treestuff is aware of this and should acknowledge it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ob2

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom