Tips and Tricks

Thought the shotline would beat the cube for me - though I've since realised that it too can sometimes get caught/slight tangle on the throw/shoot (mostly from anything that may be sticking up/around it on the ground, plus there is always a little slight friction that you know is holding the throw/shot back a bit each time. Back to the cube for me.
 
Brocky said:
Hi Ken, do you know of any advantages of having a retrieval shackle that is adjustable? It has been a while since I have used DdRT and I can't think of one. In fact I just disassembled one I made of tenex a little over ten years ago. Looked brand new but just got too old.
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Sorry, missed this B-

i think just how they designed, don't know why , looked at that myself.
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Just thought clean, simple evolution of idea!
 
Always know how lucky we are;
to be able to 'Touch Trees'; really some of the most magnificent creatures on the planet;
and to be healthy and skilled enough to do so floating on the end of a rope like a spaceman.
What 'landlubbers' / non-climbers, even on your own crew are missing; to learn of life this way.
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And what just 5 minutes of that which is your daily 8 might mean to someone else!
 
Two things I've learned in the past two weeks-

First, if two rope tails are joined by a sheet bend, the fastest way to untie them is to pull the main bend of both ropes in opposite directions. They just fall apart. (I want to hear how many of you end up chasing down a scrap piece to try upon reading.)

Second, when planning on two ground guys and one is late to the party- and you really need someone on tag line, AND you don't have your triple thimble handy: redirect sling under the rigging ring with a Munter hitch on the biner. Of course it limits the size of the pieces you can take, but it works in a pinch. Just pull the Munter till its flipped under the biner, reversed from your lowering direction. It gives a little extra resistance, buying you time to put a hand on the rope. The smaller stuff came to a stop, only the top kept going, but it traveled slow enough for me to control the rope before there was contact with targets.
 
Bob Bob said:
I've used a collection of old truck tires placed on top of a concrete sidewalk for protection from a small/medium sized stem being felled. It worked great to prevent cracking the sidewalk accidentally. Effectiveness of this trick would diminish as the size of the tree increases.
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Plywood beneath, and tying tires together, worked for repetitious bombing of chunks onto pavers.

Restacking loose tires each chunk gets old.
 
yoyoman said:
Tom you make good points.
With MA each part of the chain needs to be examined to check the load. I totally agree that friction hitches are much more rope friendly.
I think one very important point here in pre-tension to the porti is that you begin to mix climbing gear and rigging gear, keep them separate and I think a hand ascender will work in this 2:1. again, like you said a prusik or friction hitch is probably a better idea or a rope grab that will slip first like a shunt or other toothless rope grabs.
The Petzl hand ascender is ok on a 2:1 and has a breaking strength of 6.5kN or around 1400 pounds. Probably not going to get exceeded from a couple of guys giving a pull and it is quick to install. The wire gate revolver also would work here IMO.

Again, good points Tom and maybe some things guys don't think about much when you start to work with MA.
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It is worth stressing the importance of separating climbing and rigging gear. I keep all my climbing gear in one doctor style bag and rope bags. All rigging hardware goes in a separate bag. My rigging rope is in buckets. Having different colors/types of gear storage means you can have the groundie retrieve and place gear in the right place. No worries about him getting you a rigging prusik instead of a climbing one.

A 5 gal bucket with a lid is a good waterproof rope container. They also stand up and a rope can be dispensed from the pour spout. Cat litter buckets with a flip top are also great for storing gear, they are also stackable and water proof.
 
Another tip is about saving your TIP. I like 550 cord or parachute cord. It makes a great bookmark. You just need to know how to get the real stuff. If it is not on a cardboard spool of 1200' then it is a knock off. The real stuff is MIL-C-5040 Type III. If you can find type IV, that stuff is seriously strong. 750 or 850lbs ABS. Most of the imitators come in 1000' spools.

The next part of my tip is about how the mil spec cord comes continuous or in 2 lengths on one spool. If it says first length 1200' and the second length is blank then you have a continuous spool. If it has anything on the second line then it is two pieces.

When I was a child I had 1200' of 550 cord on an extension cord reel and a para-foil kite. This was seriously bad ass. I could fly this kite high enough to make the FAA nervous and this thing was big. Probably 3x3 or larger. On one occasion I was able to jump from the top of a fence and the kite carried me 20' or so.
 
This idea comes from Nick the splicer. Use an antique pfluger fly fishing reel for in canopy throw line. The quick link is a good weight and it is compatible with the Mumford magnets.
Did I mention it is spring loaded.
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