Rope Wrench - Hitch/Rope compendium.

I tie mine the same way Swingdud does... It seems like it's more a 3 wrap 2.5 braid, works perfectly for me, but still mostly using Ddrt. I tie the same with the wrench when I SRT though. Smooth as glass.
This is on fuzed Tachyon, Imori, +1 wrap for Kernmaster. All ropes used Ddrt or SRT with the wrench.
28" spliced 10mm Armor prus? (the blue and black stuff) and 10mm Oceans (only when newish, then it binds)
~ 155-160# w/o gear
 
As for counting wraps look at Swing's picture in post 11 on pg 1. Starting at the top count the number of turns that end at the diagonal bridge. In the picture, the fourth wrap immediately becomes part of the first braid as it goes under the diagonal bridge, which also quick changes into part of the braid.
 
195# plus gear and clothing (235ish total)

NE KM III Max
9.3 Epicord, hand spliced 31"
VT 4/2.5 alternating with Michoacan 4/1 to extend life of hitch cord

Previously tried 8mm (bound up) and 10mm Ocean (too large for 11mm rope)
 
Also want to add that I climb without gloves, and although we shouldn't be burning out on a FH, they still get hot if you descend any appreciable amount on them.

I find the michoacan is a more compact hitch, and seems to spread the heat over a larger area that your fingers touch, than the VT.

With the VT I typically use thumb and index finger to squeeze the top wrap to control letting the hitch run. The hitch is more spread out by nature, and that pretty much leaves about all you can grip.... Well that and the fact that if you touch much more, at least with my set up, gravity inhearantly takes charge at a much faster rate.

With the michoacan, I can lightly palm the whole hitch, using the thumb and index finger to break the top wrap, and it glides much more evenly, smoothly and with less heat.

I'm a fan.

As with most things, your mileage may vary with your set up/weight differences.
 
JustinK said:
Also want to add that I climb without gloves, and although we shouldn't be burning out on a FH, they still get hot if you descend any appreciable amount on them.

I find the michoacan is a more compact hitch, and seems to spread the heat over a larger area that your fingers touch, than the VT.

With the VT I typically use thumb and index finger to squeeze the top wrap to control letting the hitch run. The hitch is more spread out by nature, and that pretty much leaves about all you can grip.... Well that and the fact that if you touch much more, at least with my set up, gravity inhearantly takes charge at a much faster rate.

With the michoacan, I can lightly palm the whole hitch, using the thumb and index finger to break the top wrap, and it glides much more evenly, smoothly and with less heat.

I'm a fan.

As with most things, your mileage may vary with your set up/weight differences.
Click to expand...
Same with the Knut.


Reed Wortley
ISA CA# SO-6953A
CTSP # 01739
 
Also meant to mention that my hitches react different depending on my anchor method.

If I canopy anchor, or if I have multiple redirects or a lot of friction between myself and my base anchor, the VT doesn't seem to react as quickly as say basal anchor, with a relatively low amount of contact points and a smooth open crotch and basal anchor.

The rope (cougar) gets stiffer, which I actually like, the more you approach the "double weight" factor of the base anchor. The hitch seems to take a little longer to grab on the stiffened rope. No big deal, but I don't have a ton of climb time, maybe 5-6months, on the wrench, and I've been trying to pay attention and much as possible to the differences in each set up, and the factors involved, to try to make everything run as smooth as possible.
 
JustinK said:
Also meant to mention that my hitches react different depending on my anchor method.

If I canopy anchor, or if I have multiple redirects or a lot of friction between myself and my base anchor, the VT doesn't seem to react as quickly as say basal anchor, with a relatively low amount of contact points and a smooth open crotch and basal anchor.

The rope (cougar) gets stiffer, which I actually like, the more you approach the "double weight" factor of the base anchor. The hitch seems to take a little longer to grab on the stiffened rope. No big deal, but I don't have a ton of climb time, maybe 5-6months, on the wrench, and I've been trying to pay attention and much as possible to the differences in each set up, and the factors involved, to try to make everything run as smooth as possible.
Click to expand...
The Wrench is most sensitive to how much tail weight you have. Part of maintaining a consistent feel on the Wrench is to keep the tail "light". You can do this by pulling a few meters over a union below you while the remainder of Fall is not heavy enough to pull back what you've set up. This will all become second nature after a while...just sort of setting up some line before entering a work station or series of them. The Wrench will also feel more the same, making the hitch more predictable and consistent.
 
155lbs without gear. Hh2, 6 wraps of hrc on sterling tendril (similar to tachyon) was the best for me. Would have to set the hitch after a long ascent but it was fast and tended well. On the runner now and it's amazing how much better it tends.
 
Been in allot of pitchy spruce lately, Arbormaster seems to work in the pitch better than any of my other ropes : Arbormaster( Bigfoot) 10mm AP tied at 24.5" 3x3 VT bottom cross on the tether side of the RW. 5'11" 220# geared up.
I would not rate my setup as "sporty" but it tends well, always grabs and does not bind up.
 
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I use the HH wrap, except with the top leg under the bottom leg of the hitch. Stock beeline on vortex, 8mm AP on cherry bomb. 175lbs body + gear. Tends great and no slipping.
 

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165lbs without gear.

I've been having success with 11.7mm Yale poison ivy and 9.3mm Epicord tied in a 4 wrap Knut. It runs much smoother than a 4 wrap 2 braid VT in my opinion. However, I find that making a habit of engaging the wrench prior to loading the hitch makes the biggest difference of all.
 
I would like to encourage some of you guys to try a blake's under the wrench.

I was trying to use this 10mm ultra tech for access, but this stiff little epicord just wouldn't grab right for me. So I tried something different. I know, I know...the e2e is not designed for this, but it could be. And it leads to a very short hitch.

I had fun on it today. Only one ascent on it with a little work on the way so far, so I won't call it "tried and true", but it was a smooth worker while I played on it.
I will definitely try it with some other combos and be submitting any that are beautiful for this thread (which should be stickied).20161012_112657.webp
 
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