Your Preferred Carabiners?

[Columboclimber19]

DMM ultra o is my go to choice for carabiners, they load very well, it's really hard to cross load them IMO, there lighter than petzl, also there easier to open. ISC are also a great products, I haven't used rock exotica, I hear there nice and smooth as well, speaking of, has anyone in this thread used the RE hydra pulley as a bridge connection and if so does it work well with DMM O?

 

[oceans]

Not so sure about the ORCA because I haven't tried it...probably because I love the Rock-O so darn much. I've been playing with a couple ISC carabiners because of the knurling on the gate which is real nice to actuate. My Rock-O gates are doing just fine after years and years though. I just love them, and mostly for the direction of the gate, which is perfect for single handed action.

 

[John_KAYS]

Not so sure about the ORCA because I haven't tried it...probably because I love the Rock-O so darn much. I've been playing with a couple ISC carabiners because of the knurling on the gate which is real nice to actuate. My Rock-O gates are doing just fine after years and years though. I just love them, and mostly for the direction of the gate, which is perfect for single handed action.

Yeah, I wouldn't say the ORCA feature is a necessity, but I find it helpful in colder weather when I'm wearing heavier gloves. Being able to set it as a 'non-locking' biner makes it a smoother transition...not as many steps to capture all in one motion with clumsy gloves. I find uses for it, but the truth is the regular action is so sweet you hardly need the ORCA! ....But if you wanted http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=130&item=1923#

And I'll just say again that the Rock Exotica biners are worth looking into if you haven't experienced the pull-down action.

I have Petzl Triact, DMM Ultra O, and various others, but the Rocks Rock my world. Maybe it's just because I don't like apposing actions and it feels natural to pull down...and therefore anything else isn't going to suit my fancy, but I would try 'em out... at least.

 

[mattbever]

DMM ultra O...CT oval close second.

 

[Tree Access]

The ORCAs have the gate to be activated in the opposite direction as the other RE gates (push 6 twist instead of pull & twist).
Just to let the people know who dont already, so they dont get dissapointed when the get one.

 

[John_KAYS]

The ORCAs have the gate to be activated in the opposite direction as the other RE gates (push 6 twist instead of pull & twist).
Just to let the people know who dont already, so they dont get dissapointed when the get one.

Really good point! I can't believe I left that out. The opposite direction always makes me pay attention when using the ORCA so I'm aware that I have that added feature to stay on top of. Thanks TA very good catch.

 

[MickCPitlick]

I have been using ovals for my bridge attachment, but I'm think to use a Pirate or other HMS type to get more room for a stack-up including:
1) Pinto with rope wrench tether inside, 2) two knot-tied friction hitch ends.

My question is:

After installing an oval, can rotate so that it opens down and accepts the bridge fitting (a small rigging plate), but with HMS style it seems they only open up.
How does one clip the bridge device in?

Does the Pirate support a Pinto?

 

[John_KAYS]

I have been using ovals for my bridge attachment, but I'm think to use a Pirate or other HMS type to get more room for a stack-up including:
1) Pinto with rope wrench tether inside, 2) two knot-tied friction hitch ends.

My question is:

After installing an oval, can rotate so that it opens down and accepts the bridge fitting (a small rigging plate), but with HMS style it seems they only open up.
How does one clip the bridge device in?

Does the Pirate support a Pinto?

This is seriously exactly what I was playing with over the weekend...

Of course the Hitch Climber has a lower profile and allows for more room for the tether and hitch chord, but if you were to use a pinto it pushes your hitch chord out around the curve of the oval. The Pirate was my solution too, but as you said the shape keeps the climbing system up in the doorway rather than allowing the spin and quick connect action. My solution was to use a bridge attachment that had an ID that could slip down over the gate/locking mechanism and leave the carabiner in the 'open up' position, but it is slightly awkward. It is sweet when you have the ability to rotate the carabiner to have that clean connecting action, but the Pirate doesn't allow that in this particular circumstance.

I am still playing around with this and don't know if the Pirate it the right solution or not. With the RockO's the pinto+tether+hitch = too tight and it interferes with the gate....which brought me to my next reason to support Rock Exotica's Biners. If you do have a lot on a biner like this example of a Pinto/Tether/Hitch there is a chance that it will press up against the locking mechanism. Now with the Rock Exotica pull-down action...having all that stuff on the biner pushes up against the mechanism and if anything keeps the gate from opening. But with the other carabiners and the push-up action all that stuff pushes up against the mechanism and has a chance to activate the first step to opening the gate. I know this isn't an ideal circumstance, but the thought did arise that this is one more reason why I like the Rock Exotica action better, but that's just me.



But it is funny you brought this up MickCPitlick, 'cause I was thinking the same thing...

 

[oceans]

I have been using ovals for my bridge attachment, but I'm think to use a Pirate or other HMS type to get more room for a stack-up including:
1) Pinto with rope wrench tether inside, 2) two knot-tied friction hitch ends.

My question is:

After installing an oval, can rotate so that it opens down and accepts the bridge fitting (a small rigging plate), but with HMS style it seems they only open up.
How does one clip the bridge device in?

Does the Pirate support a Pinto?

This is why the tether I designed came about. It originally was made just to straddle the Hitch Climber Pulley, but I soon realized that being able to rotate the carabiner 180 was really advantageous when using bridge attachments with smaller openings, such as the DMM Axis Swivel.

If your bridge has a ring on it, or a Petzl Swivel (S or L), or a Rock Exotica Orbitor, you'll have enough room to pass the carabiner gate through the attachment point. The only hassle with that is having enough room along the top edge of the carabiner to hold all that's stacked onto it AND the bridge attachment, and still be able to open the gate. I got over that nonsense quickly and set up the tether to work with the Rope Wrench, HC Pulley, stitched or knotted 8mm hitch cord, and a single oval biner.

Not everybody climbs with a swivel on their bridge, but I really find it to be advantageous in many situations. Say you lead out to a station with the left side of your body forward but need to switch to right part way there and you want to swing your tail over to keep it fair-leaded behind you... stuff like that.

So I like a swivel, and I want enough room in the swivel eye for 2 carabiners, and they both have to be inverted ovals so either one can go in or out at any time, no passing the gate to muck with.

Either get a larger bridge attachment point, or stick with the oval carabiner, in my opinion.

 

[John_KAYS]

Oceans, what are you recommending with the Pinto? I have your sweet Tether but can't use its sweetness with a Pinto. I love it with the Hitch Climber and usually climb with that setup, but let's say I only have one Hitch Climber, want a second line, so I grab a Pinto, hitch, tether and rope wrench... what carabiner would be best? Or are you saying I should just get another Hitch Climber?

 

[oceans]

I think you should get a second HC pulley! This will allow you to transfer either carabiner in and out of the attachment. This is BALLER for climbing with 2 stationary lines (DRT) if you have one bridge on your saddle and plan to benefit from a swivel as the attachment. I actually went back to the HC Pulley on one of my lanyards instead of the Pinto.

 

[MickCPitlick]

These are very thorough answers. Thank you. I'm new to the RW. I have been using a Hitchhiker. Can someone explain the tradeoffs between Pinto and hitch climber as climbing pulleys with RW?

For example, would the hitch climber top hole be a good place to attach a shoulder strap for tending?
Do you use separate holes for RW tether and harness biner. If so how do you attach the tether? Can a screwlink
do the job and serve as the tending attachment point?

Sorry to hijack this thread.

 

[oceans]

Overall setup with the OT and HC pulley puts the tether, hitch, and life support biner all together in the bottom hole. This leaves the middle and top open for use. I'll run a small keychain biner in the top hole on extended climbs to keep the tether tidy and locked in place. Having the tether connected with a link between it and the pulley will usually result in disappointment unless you are descending only. Once you begin to ascend, the extra "link in the chain" will allow some flop that gets ugly.

From there, I can tend by attaching to the middle eye, or even attach to the keychain biner which is sometimes just a smidge more accessible.

The middle hole can also be a convenient attachment point for a lanyard or secondary system if you happen to lack room at the bridge attachment.

 

[macswan]

I attach my chest harness to the top hole, and my haas to the middle hole. Mostly.

 

[oceans]

I've been putting the HAAS onto my chest sling, that way if I stop at a station, I can pop out only one connection (tender) and my climbing system is free for positioning but the HAAS is still in place and under tension.

 

[John_KAYS]

I'll try to contribute to the carabiner thread too by mentioning my favorite carabiner a few times...The RockO

Yeah, Oceans is 100% right on the screwlink. You want the tether DIRECTLY attached to the pulley without the extra link. So either clip both tether and hitch chord into the same hole using my favorite carabiner, the RockO, or some use a "pin device" to eliminate flop and to attach the Oceans Tether to the top hole (or middle) of the Hitch Climber more like how the usual doubled line setup would work out. As seen here: http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/hitch-independent-zk-2-tether.24766/page-2#post-350333

...and here are some ideas for attaching both Oceans Tether and Hitch chord to the same carabiner (could use a RockO) and hole in the Hitch Climber:
http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/setting-up-the-rope-wrench-with-the-hh-pulley.25375/ - they meant to say Hitch Climber you'll find

If you don't have an Oceans Tether that allows you to straddle the pulley, I would recommend getting one! BTW thanks Oceans for that brilliant development.

 

[oceans]

I've been rocking the Rock-O for so long and they still retain great action. Love that gate direction, too.

John, thanks for all the kind words about the tether, and also for linking up those previous threads.

Rock-O(n)!

 

[Quintanana]

Reviving an ooold thread here...

Just got the new uplock RockD. Always preferred the down action except for when its oriented upside down. Wanted one for my lanyard.

Favorites
Oval: CT
HMS: Pirate
D: rockD

 

[Jonny]

Ditto, I like Rock Exoticas for everything except at the end of my lanyard and actually don’t care for a biner as a lanyard termination at all. I got a couple captive eye biners spliced on lanyards so still using them, it’s not a big deal to me, but when it’s time to replace them, I’m going back to snaps.

 

[Quintanana]

Ditto, I like Rock Exoticas for everything except at the end of my lanyard and actually don’t care for a biner as a lanyard termination at all. I got a couple captive eye biners spliced on lanyards so still using them, it’s not a big deal to me, but when it’s time to replace them, I’m going back to snaps.

I'm running the snap now and cant complain just wanted to run a biner to try. Sometimes forget to thread on the snap when splicing a lanyard...