X-rigging rings

I don't think it'll be a necessary to have redi always just in certain situations it may be nice with a straight and down or going against lean. If you can't get thing to stop twisting and pinching maybe you should use a block.Just sayin!
Or rings a block would kind of do what David's been trying to explain not to do.
 
I believe my words may be taken out of context here ,hard to say looking at a screen with no emotion. If I was misunderstood its understandable due to the lack of info and time dedicated to my posts. I'm not speculating about THT anymore . I was saying that if a user whoever they are of a device whatever it is isn't confident or competent then use what you know or get some understanding and training. AND IM NOT DIRECTING THIS AT ANYONE IN PARTICULAR.
I say this because I don't know who the hell could be reading this shit Levis article made me think some ...which I read after Davids.. after Mark's.. after Greg's ..maybe i missed someone but. All good shit. I don't want anybody taking my shit for word I've got no formal training ..I do things i wouldnt want someone else to do. I want to give good advice ,but I dont dedicate enough time to feel complete Example : read Levi Rockets Article and Beware of bullshit and internet babble Take the time to get trained properly. Don't rely on treebuzz or YouTube to do o it. Wow too much time in on this one.Rig smart use you noggins kids! Sorry for derail ! I'm out!
 
I believe my words may be taken out of context here ,hard to say looking at a screen with no emotion. If I was misunderstood its understandable due to the lack of info and time dedicated to my posts. I'm not speculating about THT anymore . I was saying that if a user whoever they are of a device whatever it is isn't confident or competent then use what you know or get some understanding and training. AND IM NOT DIRECTING THIS AT ANYONE IN PARTICULAR.
I say this because I don't know who the hell could be reading this shit Levis article made me think some ...which I read after Davids.. after Mark's.. after Greg's ..maybe i missed someone but. All good shit. I don't want anybody taking my shit for word I've got no formal training ..I do things i wouldnt want someone else to do. I want to give good advice ,but I dont dedicate enough time to feel complete Example : read Levi Rockets Article and Beware of bullshit and internet babble Take the time to get trained properly. Don't rely on treebuzz or YouTube to do o it. Wow too much time in on this one.Rig smart use you noggins kids! Sorry for derail ! I'm out!
Solid advise and yeah we've been throwing thing around on here I think it was kind of a Christmas mentality took over for me. Work is slow new buzz,articles and gear on the same day. I guess maybe I should grow up a bit one of these days
 
Did any of you guys see any pinching in the vid of the THT anywhere....question answered....David would not put out a purely functional product....welcome to the revolution....according to the ole CULT song.....
 
Did any of you guys see any pinching in the vid of the THT anywhere....question answered....David would not put out a purely functional product....welcome to the revolution....according to the ole CULT song.....
Actually yes I did. It depends on how you define pinched. I'm not talking about a rope cutting pinch...the sling for the THT keeps it off the trunk enough to help prevent that (and also no sharp edges on the tht).

I'm talking about a rope rub pinch between the THT and the trunk of the tree, in a spar removal application. It would be very similar to a natural crotch rope burn on heavy wood.

And like I said, I could be wrong, I am just saying what I seen, and think could be a issue...though maybr not a major one unless going super heavy and fast.
 
Let me be clear though. I'm not saying this is a bad product etc. It is a interesting product, and will probably do a lot of good in the industry. I'm just wondering on the effect of the rope in this location of the tht.

Personally as a climber and ground guy...I prefer all the friction directly controlled by the ground person...do he can take off and add as needed. But I understand how the tht may be better as far as force and weight on the tree is concerned.
 
I understand ya Climbhigh.....reading what ya saying bro....don't think it will be an issue...I have not used the product yet....but will blast it when I do.....I respect what you are saying...sure David will allay these concerns soon...
 
Maybe this has been discussed, but I don't really want to go through the 49 pages to find it.

When negative rigging with the THT, what prevents the rope from getting toasted on the bark? When using a block, or even multiple x rings, the rope it either protected by the sheaves or the rings are perpendicular to the trunk...keeping the rope off the tree. Where as, it appears the THT would pinch the rope between the THT holes and the tree because it is always going to be line with the trunk, causing a lot of wear and heat on the lowering line.

I'm catching up.

Yes, on vertical spars, the rope is sandwiched against the spar some. I've only ever seen this as a positive outcome. Have not glazed or seen the rope smoke. Is it because the thickness of the sling eye and the thin body of the THT the reason that not too much pressure is a applied in the sandwiching?

I thought I showed some of it in slow motion in the video and put up some text to explain it. ?
 
How so, if working a spar?

I agree it it is possible when doing limbs, but don't see a way to avoid it on spar work.

Since the THT would never be oriented the other way, perhaps the sides should have an extra edge on it...that would contact the trunk prior to the rope.
That might be a solution if there was a problem. I've never seen a problem after a year of use.
 
In the video you were often very near the tht to feed the rope back up but if you have it at 1 t.i.p and your 30' away out on a limb how hard is it to feed the rope back through?

How much more friction is it than a double beast or rr fs in the tree with a ring at the ground?

It seems good for larger limbs but sometimes you need to take smaller branches off first to make the big limb fit into the whole so can it also be used for smaller branches ( how light of a branch will run the rope in the tht)?

Is it most effective to have the tht at where you are like in the videos or to use it as the central rigging point and use a xrr to move around as a redirect at your cut out on the limbs?

In negative rigging is the bend radius equal to 2 beasts since its longer but still kind of narrow?

Great looking tool/ idea for sure

Its a good bit more friction than the double beast XRRs. I had it done in matte finish too to add more.

The final version luckily adds a little more friction than our prototypes. I got a dyno now from treestuff and will let you know some figures on smallest limbs and what a climber can hold, etc.;

You can advance the THT when way out on a lower limb with the ground man helping for sure. Done it plenty. with the new one too.

I have a prototype climbing tool that interfered with showing new THT work. So I'll make sure I use products that can be shown in future jobs so that I can show more THT.

the THT has 38 mm holes and a 24 mm groove. Bend RADIUS would therefore be less than a beast. Long area of rope fiber is used throughout the THT, which is very beneficial for rope strength.
 
If he's rigging tht at the top and rings at the bottom as a bit of a friction redirect could you swap them around? Double ring sling at the top and tht at the bottom? Or I guess that would cancel X's point totally wouldn't it.

THT at the bottom is a pain in the ass since it's not mid line attachable. Works great at the top as intended for. Rope weight helps in the return of the line for the next limb or log.
 
Actually yes I did. It depends on how you define pinched. I'm not talking about a rope cutting pinch...the sling for the THT keeps it off the trunk enough to help prevent that (and also no sharp edges on the tht).

I'm talking about a rope rub pinch between the THT and the trunk of the tree, in a spar removal application. It would be very similar to a natural crotch rope burn on heavy wood.

And like I said, I could be wrong, I am just saying what I seen, and think could be a issue...though maybr not a major one unless going super heavy and fast.
yes, definitely contact, sandwiching between the THT and bark. That's why I showed it in slow motion. at least, I hope I did ! Due to the slim profile of the THT, it must limit the pressure of the pinching/ sandwiching a lot. Someone with that belay spool said the pinching on it sucked and locked things up. Look at the thickness. That is the reason I think.

in negative rigging, about a half wrap is added during the inverting process of the THT and also the bark friction at the very end. Very beneficial to putting on the breaks at the end of the run.

You guys are smart. You keep speculating, but also keep saying "I haven't used it, so I don't know for sure". That is talk of a wise person right there.
 
yes, definitely contact, sandwiching between the THT and bark. That's why I showed it in slow motion. at least, I hope I did ! Due to the slim profile of the THT, it must limit the pressure of the pinching/ sandwiching a lot. Someone with that belay spool said the pinching on it sucked and locked things up. Look at the thickness. That is the reason I think.

in negative rigging, about a half wrap is added during the inverting process of the THT and also the bark friction at the very end. Very beneficial to putting on the breaks at the end of the run.

You guys are smart. You keep speculating, but also keep saying "I haven't used it, so I don't know for sure". That is talk of a wise person right there.
Thanks for the feed back, much appreciated. Yes, you did show it in slow motion, and that was what got me wondering if it was a issue...shown on a pine so wasn't sure how it would be on a rougher tree.

Good to know it hasn't appeared to be a problem in your test of the tht.
 
Its a good bit more friction than the double beast XRRs. I had it done in matte finish too to add more.

The final version luckily adds a little more friction than our prototypes. I got a dyno now from treestuff and will let you know some figures on smallest limbs and what a climber can hold, etc.;

You can advance the THT when way out on a lower limb with the ground man helping for sure. Done it plenty. with the new one too.

I have a prototype climbing tool that interfered with showing new THT work. So I'll make sure I use products that can be shown in future jobs so that I can show more THT.

the THT has 38 mm holes and a 24 mm groove. Bend RADIUS would therefore be less than a beast. Long area of rope fiber is used throughout the THT, which is very beneficial for rope strength.

So if you are technical rigging do you put the tht last in the system(closest to the cut) or do you put it at the apex (top/ highest point of the system)?

In a typical system it would be re-directs up to the main block then to any other re-directs needed.

So does the tht replace the main bock or final re-direct?
 
yes, definitely contact, sandwiching between the THT and bark. That's why I showed it in slow motion. at least, I hope I did ! Due to the slim profile of the THT, it must limit the pressure of the pinching/ sandwiching a lot. Someone with that belay spool said the pinching on it sucked and locked things up. Look at the thickness. That is the reason I think.

in negative rigging, about a half wrap is added during the inverting process of the THT and also the bark friction at the very end. Very beneficial to putting on the breaks at the end of the run.

You guys are smart. You keep speculating, but also keep saying "I haven't used it, so I don't know for sure". That is talk of a wise person right there.

If the rope does sandwich does pitch/sap ever cause a problem with the rope if not the tht?
 

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