X-rigging rings

Putting a redirect on main stem may help orient tht so it doesn't smash/pinch rope.
How so, if working a spar?

I agree it it is possible when doing limbs, but don't see a way to avoid it on spar work.

Since the THT would never be oriented the other way, perhaps the sides should have an extra edge on it...that would contact the trunk prior to the rope.
 
How so, if working a spar?

I agree it it is possible when doing limbs, but don't see a way to avoid it on spar work.

Since the THT would never be oriented the other way, perhaps the sides should have an extra edge on it...that would contact the trunk prior to the rope.

I think it just rubs. biners, xrrs, everything but blocks with side plates do it. Are you worried about grit build up or rough bark or ....?
 
Yes a carabiner would do the same thing. But there is some differences: the amount of weight you put on the THT is going to be significantly higher, also the amount of rope being pinch between the THT and the tree is more (compared to a carabiner).

As far as the xxr, your still supposed to use 2 of them side by side. So once they are put in a load situation they will tend to orient themselves that the rope wouldn't be pinched...the ring openings crossing the log (like a t), not facing directly away. .

I could be wrong though, I haven't used them yet.
 
In the video you were often very near the tht to feed the rope back up but if you have it at 1 t.i.p and your 30' away out on a limb how hard is it to feed the rope back through?

How much more friction is it than a double beast or rr fs in the tree with a ring at the ground?

It seems good for larger limbs but sometimes you need to take smaller branches off first to make the big limb fit into the whole so can it also be used for smaller branches ( how light of a branch will run the rope in the tht)?

Is it most effective to have the tht at where you are like in the videos or to use it as the central rigging point and use a xrr to move around as a redirect at your cut out on the limbs?

In negative rigging is the bend radius equal to 2 beasts since its longer but still kind of narrow?

Great looking tool/ idea for sure
 
Yes a carabiner would do the same thing. But there is some differences: the amount of weight you put on the THT is going to be significantly higher, also the amount of rope being pinch between the THT and the tree is more (compared to a carabiner).

As far as the xxr, your still supposed to use 2 of them side by side. So once they are put in a load situation they will tend to orient themselves that the rope wouldn't be pinched...the ring openings crossing the log (like a t), not facing directly away. .

I could be wrong though, I haven't used them yet.
I have and now that you say that I think you are often right but of course it can still twist and turn and rub on the bark. I definitely see what you're saying about the tht though I'm going to go watch his video again and see what I can see.
 
I have and now that you say that I think you are often right but of course it can still twist and turn and rub on the bark. I definitely see what you're saying about the tht though I'm going to go watch his video again and see what I can see.

On the 9' pine log he takes it definitely rubs on the bark causing friction while it lays flat on the trunk. On a spruce or something it could gum up the rope so maybe it's a pick and choose when you use it and when you use the rings. I'm sure X will chime in soon enough and have a better answer than me though.
 
I have and now that you say that I think you are often right but of course it can still twist and turn and rub on the bark. I definitely see what you're saying about the tht though I'm going to go watch his video again and see what I can see.
I want to try them...just waiting for a pre made 2 ring system that I can just choke it anywhere go, no tying 2 different slings. Plus I don't do my own splicing...so have to wait.
 
I want to try them...just waiting for a pre made 2 ring system that I can just choke it anywhere go, no tying 2 different slings. Plus I don't do my own splicing...so have to wait.

He showed that in his video I think so this spring may be your break. Not telling you what to buy and the choker sling is a great tool and if that's your style go nuts and I have one with a single ring and it's great but the rr fs retrievable from the ground and just as strong is probably my favourite xrr sling combo. But everyone is different so I highly recommend any combo you won't regret it.

I'm waiting to see more on this tht this spring before my next order goes in but definitely will be using the xrr tools for years
 
How so, if working a spar?

I agree it it is possible when doing limbs, but don't see a way to avoid it on spar work.

Since the THT would never be oriented the other way, perhaps the sides should have an extra edge on it...that would contact the trunk prior to the rope.

I'm not sure if sides would be a good idea if it bounced or the rope got pinched under one of those sides that may be worse could it not?
 
I want to try them...just waiting for a pre made 2 ring system that I can just choke it anywhere go, no tying 2 different slings. Plus I don't do my own splicing...so have to wait.
The only x ring I have yet.

1f436854eb771ccc5a37a18c45d3aa93.jpg


And unfortunately I can't really use it much...due to my lowering lines are bigger than a 1/2". When I ordered it from treestuff, I thought it was the large ring (like one Derrick Martin had them make up). Oh well :) I still like it.
 
I'm not sure if sides would be a good idea if it bounced or the rope got pinched under one of those sides that may be worse could it not?
True, I thought about that. But it wouldn't have to go all the way to t he bottom. It could just be from the center of middle hole,around the top and back to center.
 
The only x ring I have yet.

1f436854eb771ccc5a37a18c45d3aa93.jpg


And unfortunately I can't really use it much...due to my lowering lines are bigger than a 1/2". When I ordered it from treestuff, I thought it was the large ring (like one Derrick Martin had them make up). Oh well :) I still like it.

It's to bad it isn't 3/4" tenet with a beast. When you get your xl setup you'll be happy, but make sure you get the ring numbers or tell the xl because the one in your pic does look like the lg

I'm lucky our go to rigging lines are 1/2" so mine like this one, but a whoopie, I use all the time.
Do you like that sling style I've looked at it numerous times but just didn't know why it was better than a whoopie.
 
True, I thought about that. But it wouldn't have to go all the way to t he bottom. It could just be from the center of middle hole,around the top and back to center.
If you shouldered the top half like you say it would have to be deeper than 1" so to accommodate any size of rigging line and then you hope the weigh pulls it straight dow without tipping it in at the bottom or the shoulder wouldn't matter any ways. As well the tht would be 2-3x the depth it is now.

I assume it must not be to big of a problem how he produced it because he uses things for years before he mentions them to anyone and that's well before he tries to sell them. So if they're at the quality and production level of the xrrs I'm willing to trust David's got a good tool. But definitely a very different kind of new toy that gets your brain spinning wanting to know more.
 
It's to bad it isn't 3/4" tenet with a beast. When you get your xl setup you'll be happy, but make sure you get the ring numbers or tell the xl because the one in your pic does look like the lg

I'm lucky our go to rigging lines are 1/2" so mine like this one, but a whoopie, I use all the time.
Do you like that sling style I've looked at it numerous times but just didn't know why it was better than a whoopie.
Derrick's was a large ring...so I assumed the ones they were selling were large too, but it is only a medium ring. I plan on ordering one with a large or xl ring.

We have the same setup for our block, and like it. For years I always used a loopie gor the block, and sometimes a whoopie, but now we grab this strap. It is always adjustable (pine sap doesn't matter, or frozen), plus faster to adjust.

The one area it is bad though, is once you get low on the spar,and still need to lower the chunks. Since it is not infinitely adjustable, sometime the block maybe a 6" drop...which could be to much
 
Derrick's was a large ring...so I assumed the ones they were selling were large too, but it is only a medium ring. I plan on ordering one with a large or xl ring.

We have the same setup for our block, and like it. For years I always used a loopie gor the block, and sometimes a whoopie, but now we grab this strap. It is always adjustable (pine sap doesn't matter, or frozen), plus faster to adjust.

The one area it is bad though, is once you get low on the spar,and still need to lower the chunks. Since it is not infinitely adjustable, sometime the block maybe a 6" drop...which could be to much

Thanks
 
If you shouldered the top half like you say it would have to be deeper than 1" so to accommodate any size of rigging line and then you hope the weigh pulls it straight dow without tipping it in at the bottom or the shoulder wouldn't matter any ways. As well the tht would be 2-3x the depth it is now.

I assume it must not be to big of a problem how he produced it because he uses things for years before he mentions them to anyone and that's well before he tries to sell them. So if they're at the quality and production level of the xrrs I'm willing to trust David's got a good tool. But definitely a very different kind of new toy that gets your brain spinning wanting to know more.
I trust him, and maybe he had early prototypes of this...and it didn't work. I'm just throwing it out there. I agree it may add to much bulk etc, and not be practical. I just tend to think "outside the box" and look for ways of improvement.
 
How so, if working a spar?

I agree it it is possible when doing limbs, but don't see a way to avoid it on spar work.

Since the THT would never be oriented the other way, perhaps the sides should have an extra edge on it...that would contact the trunk prior to the rope.
I will agree that rope protection isn't super high with tht ,but I've never messed with one so from what I see how it runs through if a redi is placed so the rope pulls to the side a bit down on trunk the tht won't be able to smash flat pinching rope it will go on edde side against wood not threaded side . Hope this makes sense !
 
I will agree that rope protection isn't super high with tht ,but I've never messed with one so from what I see how it runs through if a redi is placed so the rope pulls to the side a bit down on trunk the tht won't be able to smash flat pinching rope it will go on edde side against wood not threaded side . Hope this makes sense !
It makes sense but we're all just guessing for now
 
I don't think it'll be a necessary to have redi always just in certain situations it may be nice with a straight and down or going against lean. If you can't get thing to stop twisting and pinching maybe you should use a block.Just sayin!
 
I don't think it'll be a necessary to have redi always just in certain situations it may be nice with a straight and down or going against lean. If you can't get thing to stop twisting and pinching maybe you should use a block.Just sayin!
If he's rigging tht at the top and rings at the bottom as a bit of a friction redirect could you swap them around? Double ring sling at the top and tht at the bottom? Or I guess that would cancel X's point totally wouldn't it.
 

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