Working Saddles / Climbing harness Setups! (Show us a pic or video)

Greg_L said:
This might not be your thing, but hear me out: The rubber silky attachment doohickey that you've got your s-bone clipped to is designed to go over a belt of some sort. What I do is run my leg strap directly through that rubber doohickey, and buckle it together. It still gives it a bit of range of motion (enough to stay out of my way) but I find it brings it up a smidge higher, and holds the scabbard in place better for drawing/sheathing.
Click to expand...
I might try it through the leg strap too. Don't know why it never occurred to me! The Silky rubber deal is made for either a belt or biner (it has a hole in the top). Even when pruning from the ground I use a biner over my belt because it is just easier than using the loop. I think the harness waist belt through the loop would fit higher than I prefer, but will give it a try.
 
The orange one with the accesory biner on the left side is my permanent chest harness, the yellow sling (2') is often used for redirects or putting a figure eight above a hitch. The small blue one (~1') is used also for extending climbing devices. The orange one with the Autolocker on it is my main all purpose sling for foot loops or redirects. I like having an extra 4' sling around, hence the second orange one, and the long blue (~6') is rarely used to choke around a large stem or something. I might use it more in the future for my experimental frog walker system without ascenders.
But yeah, I could probably do without the extra 4' and the 6', but they don't really bother me.
 
Oh, forgot to say what's in the pouches on the back. The Army IFAK pouch hold about 80' of paracord that I use as throwline in the tree, when working with saws I add the first aid insert, the leatherman pouch hold my leatherman wave, needed it several times because I use screwgates and they can become over tightened.
 
No, it usually happens when I thighten them under load, and then try to unsrew them unloaded. I've never had a problem requiring pliers when I try loosening them under load. But sometimes I just can't put it back under load to loosen it, hence the pliers.
And i like having a knife with me anyway.
 
Yeah, its a really heavy duty bike inner tube. It is thicker on one side, and thinner on the other. I also use the thick side to make carabiner keepers (look at my lanyard).
The wrench is made entirely out of 6mm birch plywood, with 8mm beech dowel rod as the sheave axle, and a rope wrench slic pin as the slic pin.
I don't know what kind of wood the thether is, it's made from springy bed slats, they appear to be some sort of plywood too.
The sheave is three layers of plywood superglued together then formed with a drill and an angle grinder.
This is just a version to find out proper spacing, I plan on making an aluminium or steel version.
Sorry for derailing the thread with this.
 
Looks like a blue home made ring and ring friction saver...how did you terminate the blue webbing on the rings?
 
Don't know what a ring hitch is, all I did was make a sling with a beer knot and girth hitched the ends on the rings. I added some ranger bands to keep the girth hitches to undo when not in use.
 
@rope-a-dope To be honest the stuff on the gear loops doesn't bother me much. The two most cumbersome items are my lanyard and my handsaw. The handsaw lives pretty well on my leg, but the lanyard always gets hung up somewhere, although it is only 15'.
 
Right on, loop runners stay pretty light...im just biased cuz we make fun of hula skirt climbers at work :bailando:
I like a 10 ft lanyard. And those lanyard manager clips are great, too.
 
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