Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Thanks for the update Buick!
I'm really curious as to how it would act on a drop test with your typical 16 strand where the sheath ratio is upwards of 60-80%.. In the general grab/ascender drop tests I've seen, its usually always the sheath that lets go exposing the parallel cores inside these kernmantle rescue/climbing ropes they are testing with. The rope at that point (when & if still in tact) becomes problematic for the mountaineer to continue down past the rip as the cover is all bunched up (obviously being stuck is the least of your problems at that point if your hanging on compromised cordage). I believe, this & the fact you brought up about "expected falls" may be why you hear such a concern at mountaineering sites because it can leave them stranded & mid creek without a paddle. Now with that said, that all depends on just the cover tearing.. If in fact the RM is severing the cordage under dynamic falls, then using this device in the way we are, is a bad idea. Who knows, maybe the RM, is worse, because it has the bar from the biner to apply pressure against. Kinda like a chipper knife against the anvil.
However, i do think it would have a harder time ripping/completely severing something like a 16 strand or possibly a cordage designed like Plaitnum. Can anyone recall what was experienced when Richard did all that 16 strand bridge testing with his Rolln'Lock? Did it ever break or strip cover at the cam? I swear i remember it always breaking at the knots. Granted, that's a static test vs the dynamic concern above.
Edit - I was incorrect but also right regarding Richards videos & it always breaking at knot.. Sometimes the Rolln'lock would strip, other times it would strip one side & then break at knot on other side. However what showed consistent was that the stopper always worked & caused cordage, even after stripped, to break at respectable numbers, just as high as any typical non adjustable 16 strand bridge with double fisherman's.. Again, obviously were talking static.. it just showed that even after the CT ripped cover, final break was respectable. That goes without saying, cordage choice obviously determined ultimate strength.
I'm really curious as to how it would act on a drop test with your typical 16 strand where the sheath ratio is upwards of 60-80%.. In the general grab/ascender drop tests I've seen, its usually always the sheath that lets go exposing the parallel cores inside these kernmantle rescue/climbing ropes they are testing with. The rope at that point (when & if still in tact) becomes problematic for the mountaineer to continue down past the rip as the cover is all bunched up (obviously being stuck is the least of your problems at that point if your hanging on compromised cordage). I believe, this & the fact you brought up about "expected falls" may be why you hear such a concern at mountaineering sites because it can leave them stranded & mid creek without a paddle. Now with that said, that all depends on just the cover tearing.. If in fact the RM is severing the cordage under dynamic falls, then using this device in the way we are, is a bad idea. Who knows, maybe the RM, is worse, because it has the bar from the biner to apply pressure against. Kinda like a chipper knife against the anvil.
However, i do think it would have a harder time ripping/completely severing something like a 16 strand or possibly a cordage designed like Plaitnum. Can anyone recall what was experienced when Richard did all that 16 strand bridge testing with his Rolln'Lock? Did it ever break or strip cover at the cam? I swear i remember it always breaking at the knots. Granted, that's a static test vs the dynamic concern above.
Edit - I was incorrect but also right regarding Richards videos & it always breaking at knot.. Sometimes the Rolln'lock would strip, other times it would strip one side & then break at knot on other side. However what showed consistent was that the stopper always worked & caused cordage, even after stripped, to break at respectable numbers, just as high as any typical non adjustable 16 strand bridge with double fisherman's.. Again, obviously were talking static.. it just showed that even after the CT ripped cover, final break was respectable. That goes without saying, cordage choice obviously determined ultimate strength.
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