'Whoopie' Bridge Adjuster

Brocky said:
I put this Whoopi adjuster lanyard together, seems to work very well with the testing I did. The rope is 10mm Mammut semi static with a 3/8" Tenex adjuster. I used an old school slack tender, a fixed plate pulley would probably work better with just the one eye.

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AWSOME! That looks 'a bit' like "exactly!!" what I was imagining!...almost.

...let us know how it performs!
 
Possibly an SRT Blake's hitch? I couldn't get 9mm HTP to work in an srt configuration with the Whoopi adjust, it wouldn't grab without resetting it each time. Added the Blake's on top and now it grabs each time. Definitely needs more testing, but it looks promising.

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Is might be possible to un weave the amsteel for a few inches and then tuck the tails back into the rope. Think of it as a three strand back splice on a hollow braid. I could see it being a pain in the ass but it would take care of the electric tape issue.
 
Super or Krazy glue could also be used instead of tape. The back braiding might form too thick of a ridge for a ring to pass over. The way matamorph adjusts his bridge it would be a good option.
 
What about a straight up adjustable sling? Eye on Left Ring, cordage to Right Ring, then double back towards Left Ring and begin a straight bury about 1/2 way there and exit before Left Ring. Remaining cordage beyond bury exit determines maximum bridge length. Length of bury determines minimum bridge length.

Proper material and testing would be required.
 
Excellent idea oceans. Have the bury on the front side of the bridge so the ring sliding over it wouldn't interfere with the throat of the bury.
 
Brocky said:
Super or Krazy glue could also be used instead of tape. The back braiding might form too thick of a ridge for a ring to pass over. The way matamorph adjusts his bridge it would be a good option.
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Thing is, that electric tape does a good job of pinching the bridge at that point. You have to lean into it on a biner pretty deliberately to make it slip! Most times it passes no problem. I can't think of another method that would apply the same pressure, whilst staying so low-profile.

...maybe an internal elastic strip installed on that three-strand-back-splice-on-a-hollow-braid huh evo? ...no no no! I'll stick with the tape
 
oceans said:
What about a straight up adjustable sling? Eye on Left Ring, cordage to Right Ring, then double back towards Left Ring and begin a straight bury about 1/2 way there and exit before Left Ring. Remaining cordage beyond bury exit determines maximum bridge length. Length of bury determines minimum bridge length.

Proper material and testing would be required.
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Yep Sounds good!
If I'm seeing it right, I see needing a stopper knot somewhere behind the bury to stop it being compressed by, or pulled into the ring. Any chance of a quick sketch to show what you mean? Also, anyone know of any testing done with amsteel bridges?
 
Brocky said:
The Treemotion comes with a dyneema core bridge,and you don't have a cover so you can easily inspect it.

I think this is what @oceans was thinking of:
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That's exactly it, Brocky. I was attempting a sketch on my smartphone but got discouraged fairly quickly. The process of trying to draw it did make me think about the amount of cordage in the bury. I realized that if an eye was formed on the left ring, you'd end up with 3x the thickness. Perhaps a knot on the left ring would be best, leaving the throat to hold only the bury of the adjuster.
 
oceans said:
That's exactly it, Brocky. I was attempting a sketch on my smartphone but got discouraged fairly quickly. The process of trying to draw it did make me think about the amount of cordage in the bury. I realized that if an eye was formed on the left ring, you'd end up with 3x the thickness. Perhaps a knot on the left ring would be best, leaving the throat to hold only the bury of the adjuster.
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That makes sense. Won't it end up being a lot of tail hanging down when your bridge is shortened? The nature of that system makes it need double the length to be utilized (which is already long because of a similar MA setup inherent in rope bridges) and that tail has to go somewhere...

I just had a thought as I replied to this. How about a short rope bridge with a tether of some sort to hold the system out when a long bridge would be desired? No tail or adjustments, just a QAS or similar device that can be stored elsewhere when not in use?
 
SomethingWitty said:
That makes sense. Won't it end up being a lot of tail hanging down when your bridge is shortened? The nature of that system makes it need double the length to be utilized (which is already long because of a similar MA setup inherent in rope bridges) and that tail has to go somewhere...

I just had a thought as I replied to this. How about a short rope bridge with a tether of some sort to hold the system out when a long bridge would be desired? No tail or adjustments, just a QAS or similar device that can be stored elsewhere when not in use?
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You could make it adjustable independently, as well as have some of the advantages of a swivel without incorporaring one.
I think I am trying this out this weekend.
 
Using ocean's design, instead of a stopper knot, tie the end back to the rigging plate halfing the length. The maximum length that you want to extend your bridge will be the same length that is hanging when the bridge is fully shortened.
Also if the end of the rope is put through the plate right after coming out of the bury, you will be able to shorten it one handed, like a lanyard.
 
Following this thread as I ride a MCRS. Stepped up from a classic double D-ringed ass strap which was always short. Sometimes I want my bridge short. Got a CT climber pulley for this but it seems like it works better with paws then rings.
 
Sorry to say that I haven't. I've got the tenex sitting in the garage, but just have not found time. I've got paws on my saddle and one of those ct mini ascenders so I'm in no rush to experiment. Sooner or later I'll have some spare time to try it out
 
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