What method to sharpen the saw are you using

Make sharp hooks out of the cutters , when they get worn down about 3/4s use a smaller file. If you destroy all the left cutters on a stump or rock sharpen that side first an file off the opposite side to match.use a guide to gauge your rakers and file accordingly. Saw will be spitting chips. Took me about a year of beating chains up and sharpening saws to figure
it out but being able to get a saw sharp in the field by hand is a thing of beauty and pride. I've worked with guys that have been doing tree work for years and couldn't hand file a chain?
 
I just did this tonight, for the first time:

Took my ms 661 out to mill cypress. Got 2/3rds to the bottom of the first log and pulled a new guy trick - bar floated in the clamp next to the powerhead... :/ the chain teeth got nosed over to the height of the takers. I didn't immediately realize what was up and started looking for god knows what (metal, thickened slab, etc.) in the kerf... finally figured it out that the chain had been sawing metal in there - chainsaw mill metal. The damage went back ~2mm, uniformly on each tooth.

So then I couldn't use my fancy new timberline sharpener because it doesn't take enough metal off.

And, of course, my guy who I put on stump detailing lost the spare chain and didn't tell me until I texted him asking where it was.

It's times like that when I need my granberg g1012xt precision grinder to work.
 
The husqvarna roller guides are inexpensive, compact, and make it fairly easy to keep the angles right.
The timberline is intriguing but the carbide burrs seem a bit expensive to replace.

Supposedly, The bur can do about 40- 84dl chain before needing replaced.

I know for a fact someone with patience can fix a rocked chain, because I have done so.

It's not the be all, end all, but is useful for repairs.
7a808fcc9afb4d72d48314606237d842.jpg
 
Supposedly, The bur can do about 40- 84dl chain before needing replaced.

I know for a fact someone with patience can fix a rocked chain, because I have done so.

It's not the be all, end all, but is useful for repairs.
7a808fcc9afb4d72d48314606237d842.jpg

Something tells me that you aren't cutting stumps with that thing... What's the purpose for it?
 
Have full wraps and a stump grinder. Yes ma'am, we can get it close to the ground, 4-6" with a chainsaw. After that we have a stump grinder.

Ya know, I remember as a young kid trying to hammer screws. Wrong tool for the job.



Harbor freight has a $40 grinder. Good for rocked teeth. Then file by hand if needed. Don't waste good files on rocked chains. I haven't set it up in 8 months after moving, but rarely rock chains.

I waited way too long to mount a vice on my chipper. Much easier.
There are ways to cut a stump to make a chainsaw vice.


I've bought the Stihl grinding stones meant for a dremel. I've been meaning to try them in my cordless drill that is already in the truck.
 

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