What do you think of my recommendation?

climbingmonkey24 said:
@MA Arborist If you don’t mind me changing the subject for a second, on that lift you just have the pad that attaches to outrigger no bigger pad underneath like some people use.

I had a question about this the other day because I may rent a lift, possibly even for this mulberry drive.

Is that acceptable if the outrigger has a pad underneath or should you still have a bigger square pad underneath that pad?
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I keep outrigger pads on my trailer
I use them about half the time.

It really depends on how soft the surface of the lawn is. If there is any doubt we use the pads to prevent leaving a “print” in the lawn.

With that being said, I’ve never seen the outriggers (without using pads) sink more than a couple of inches on a lawn.

If you rent the machine and need pads just use some 3/4” plywood cut into 24x24” squares...it’s sufficient for that machine.
 
I was debating whether to climb this tree for the whole prune or use a lift for part of it to eliminate some climbing, not just to make it more efficient but also because of the crack in the middle. Maybe piece out smaller pieces instead of rigging any bigger pieces etc.
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
Any recommendations for resources (books etc.) to learn more about the practice?
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Other than the basic booklets I’ve found few decent options. Definitely learned more by examining other people’s work, seeing good and bad examples, and checking out compartmentalizations when removing cabled trees. Started using the rigguy cable stops which are very nice to install, and going to dabble in static cabling with straps for a couple candidates.
 
I think @rico's point is that you offer advice based on theoretical knowledge rather than experience, or at least not very much experience. The truth is that @climbingmonkey24 is trying to make a decision that affects his reputation, personal safety, as well as the fact that this is how he makes his living. The stakes of offering off-the-cuff advice for you at age 14 are very low but the same is not true for him. Sometimes it is better just to read and absorb information rather than always having to say something. You can compose a sentence correctly and can combine the wisdom of other people and YouTube videos into an untested plan. However, how would you feel if someone on here took your "advice" not knowing what your experience level was and got seriously hurt? I think I speak for others here when I say that I appreciate your interest in a skilled trade at such a young age, and you're clearly not a stupid kid. I do, however, feel that you should spend more time asking questions and listening instead of trying to seem like you know more than you actually do. Just some food for thought for you @treesap
 
I dont tell people to listen to me, follow my advice at your own risk, you would have to be stupid to take advice from some stranger on the internet when death is the result of a screw up


im not trying to get anyone hurt, or cause problems, but when I give someone advice it is either A. something I use and practice daily, or B. if I dont know about it 100% I put a disclaimer (such as this thread)

p.s, update your numbers, I gained the achievement of aging 3 days ago
 
treesap said:
I could make a video on how to open a kitchen drawer and he would say I don't know what I'm talking about
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Gee Sap, I don't think you need my help in the "I don't know what Im talking about" department. Your doing a fantastic job of it all by yourself, and I for one am enjoying the show...
 
rico said:
Gee Sap, I don't think you need my help in the "I don't know what Im talking about" department. Your doing a fantastic job of it all by yourself, and I for one am enjoying the show...
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lets make a little agreement, you dont talk to/about me, and I do the same, and nobody's the wiser, or you can keep being a little keyboard warrior trying to piss me off, I dont have time for your crap
 
12 hours on site, there was another tree that we did and some shrubs and an arborvitae...a lift was used and some climbing for this tree. Canopy raised and a lot of dead wood / damaged branches taken out. A lot of those lower hangers you're seeing had cracked and split and were just hanging on. Thanks for the input fellas.

IMG_0632.jpgIMG_0677.jpg
 
Njdelaney said:
Looks great! It will be bushed out again in 2 years so you'll be back for more. Does it produce fruit?
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Good question, I didn't think to ask.

I was a little concerned by some of what I saw in the tree, some decayed spots within limbs we had cut, etc. Multiple limbs that had split near the base where there is a gap in the middle of the wood and you could put your hand / fingers through. I wonder if that tree suffered some kind of wind damage or got weighted down from snow at some point.
 
climbingmonkey24 said:
Good question, I didn't think to ask.

I was a little concerned by some of what I saw in the tree, some decayed spots within limbs we had cut, etc. Multiple limbs that had split near the base where there is a gap in the middle of the wood and you could put your hand / fingers through. I wonder if that tree suffered some kind of wind damage or got weighted down from snow at some point.
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Down here in PA I see a lot of Mulberry with damage like that, and they just keep right on going. Around here, I would recommend cabling and bracing, and a good set of eyes on it regularly if they wanted to keep it.
 
MA Arborist said:
This is a large mulberry that my client wanted preserved.
We installed 4 threaded rods and 3 cables (those are 6’ rods in the pic).

This tree is at a bed and breakfast and the mulberry is the feature tree on the property. The expense was worth it for them.
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Does that gas powered drill turn those long bits well? I installed a couple long rods myself this year and the hardest part was getting my impact drill to turn my 60" bit. I might buy one of those if they you say they work well.
 
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