Vertical Mulching.

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A good layer of wood chips and time will reduce compaction (over time) and improve most aspects of soil function. Amazing that nature got it right.

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I am in agreement with this sentiment. I frequently prescribe the following:
- Expand the mulch bed to a diameter of X meters.
- Trim the turf to near grade.
- Install a layer of newspaper to kill remaining turf vegetation.
- Install a 4cm layer of finished compost throughout the newly created mulch ring.
- Apply a 15cm layer of partially composted wood chip within the mulch ring.

The passive approach is best - when appropriate, or the client is in agreeement, after all it is their tree..... so if more aggression is required (by tree needs or client needs):

- Vertical Mulch by boring 5-7cm diameter holes 30cm apart in the soil throughout the entire root zone with the Airknife tool.
- Remove and dispose of excavated soil.
- Replace with a compost solution in order to improve soil structure, microbial content and nutrient levels.
- Expand the mulch bed to a diameter of X meters.
- Trim the turf to near grade.
- Break up and remove the remaining turf root and plant components with Airknife tool.
- Install a 4cm layer of finished compost throughout the newly created mulch ring.
- Till the compost into the upper 10-15cm of native soil.
- Install a layer of newspaper to kill remaining turf vegetation.
- Apply a 15cm layer of partially composted wood chip within the mulch ring.
- Excavate the root collar with the Airknife tool and inspect for Stem Girdling roots.
- Remove those SGRs that are less than 2.5cm diameter.

One of my mentors from the 90's loved augering holes. We'd chew roots, irrigation lines, - everything.

There are lots of arguements for the passive approach, which i promote. There are some good arguements (which highlight flaws i.e. range/spread of decompation is low) for compressed air.

There are no arguements which justify augering and therefore In My Most Humble Opinion (O=R/E or Opinion=Reading/Experience) equally discount the effectiveness of a garden fork.

crazy aggressive radial trenching success
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2727&Type=2

same trees 14 years later
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=56&Type=2

augering effectiveness
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2618&Type=2

gro-gun not as effective as anticipated
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2566&Type=2

compressed air less efective than anticipated
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2566&Type=2

more
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2355&Type=2

There are no perfect ways, however in the end i must retract the 'absurd' statement. From a Profit perspective - selling the garden fork option is awesome!

Minimal overhead, direct labour costs can be reduced with cheap labour, charge the same $85-105 Arborist Rates creating a totally awesome approximate 50% profit margin - genius. ($85/hr, 10hr day, 1 $10.25/hr worker, pickup, $100 fuel, $100 materials = $850 revenue - ($320 COGS + $80 OHead)

Cheers.
 
Any new info on the benefits of vertical mulching with an airspade? Do you just charge an hourly rate? Do you get soil samples before hand so you know what amendments to use?
 

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