Mangoes
Participating member
- Location
- Greater Toronto Area
[ QUOTE ]
A good layer of wood chips and time will reduce compaction (over time) and improve most aspects of soil function. Amazing that nature got it right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I am in agreement with this sentiment. I frequently prescribe the following:
- Expand the mulch bed to a diameter of X meters.
- Trim the turf to near grade.
- Install a layer of newspaper to kill remaining turf vegetation.
- Install a 4cm layer of finished compost throughout the newly created mulch ring.
- Apply a 15cm layer of partially composted wood chip within the mulch ring.
The passive approach is best - when appropriate, or the client is in agreeement, after all it is their tree..... so if more aggression is required (by tree needs or client needs):
- Vertical Mulch by boring 5-7cm diameter holes 30cm apart in the soil throughout the entire root zone with the Airknife tool.
- Remove and dispose of excavated soil.
- Replace with a compost solution in order to improve soil structure, microbial content and nutrient levels.
- Expand the mulch bed to a diameter of X meters.
- Trim the turf to near grade.
- Break up and remove the remaining turf root and plant components with Airknife tool.
- Install a 4cm layer of finished compost throughout the newly created mulch ring.
- Till the compost into the upper 10-15cm of native soil.
- Install a layer of newspaper to kill remaining turf vegetation.
- Apply a 15cm layer of partially composted wood chip within the mulch ring.
- Excavate the root collar with the Airknife tool and inspect for Stem Girdling roots.
- Remove those SGRs that are less than 2.5cm diameter.
One of my mentors from the 90's loved augering holes. We'd chew roots, irrigation lines, - everything.
There are lots of arguements for the passive approach, which i promote. There are some good arguements (which highlight flaws i.e. range/spread of decompation is low) for compressed air.
There are no arguements which justify augering and therefore In My Most Humble Opinion (O=R/E or Opinion=Reading/Experience) equally discount the effectiveness of a garden fork.
crazy aggressive radial trenching success
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2727&Type=2
same trees 14 years later
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=56&Type=2
augering effectiveness
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2618&Type=2
gro-gun not as effective as anticipated
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2566&Type=2
compressed air less efective than anticipated
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2566&Type=2
more
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2355&Type=2
There are no perfect ways, however in the end i must retract the 'absurd' statement. From a Profit perspective - selling the garden fork option is awesome!
Minimal overhead, direct labour costs can be reduced with cheap labour, charge the same $85-105 Arborist Rates creating a totally awesome approximate 50% profit margin - genius. ($85/hr, 10hr day, 1 $10.25/hr worker, pickup, $100 fuel, $100 materials = $850 revenue - ($320 COGS + $80 OHead)
Cheers.
A good layer of wood chips and time will reduce compaction (over time) and improve most aspects of soil function. Amazing that nature got it right.
[/ QUOTE ]
I am in agreement with this sentiment. I frequently prescribe the following:
- Expand the mulch bed to a diameter of X meters.
- Trim the turf to near grade.
- Install a layer of newspaper to kill remaining turf vegetation.
- Install a 4cm layer of finished compost throughout the newly created mulch ring.
- Apply a 15cm layer of partially composted wood chip within the mulch ring.
The passive approach is best - when appropriate, or the client is in agreeement, after all it is their tree..... so if more aggression is required (by tree needs or client needs):
- Vertical Mulch by boring 5-7cm diameter holes 30cm apart in the soil throughout the entire root zone with the Airknife tool.
- Remove and dispose of excavated soil.
- Replace with a compost solution in order to improve soil structure, microbial content and nutrient levels.
- Expand the mulch bed to a diameter of X meters.
- Trim the turf to near grade.
- Break up and remove the remaining turf root and plant components with Airknife tool.
- Install a 4cm layer of finished compost throughout the newly created mulch ring.
- Till the compost into the upper 10-15cm of native soil.
- Install a layer of newspaper to kill remaining turf vegetation.
- Apply a 15cm layer of partially composted wood chip within the mulch ring.
- Excavate the root collar with the Airknife tool and inspect for Stem Girdling roots.
- Remove those SGRs that are less than 2.5cm diameter.
One of my mentors from the 90's loved augering holes. We'd chew roots, irrigation lines, - everything.
There are lots of arguements for the passive approach, which i promote. There are some good arguements (which highlight flaws i.e. range/spread of decompation is low) for compressed air.
There are no arguements which justify augering and therefore In My Most Humble Opinion (O=R/E or Opinion=Reading/Experience) equally discount the effectiveness of a garden fork.
crazy aggressive radial trenching success
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2727&Type=2
same trees 14 years later
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=56&Type=2
augering effectiveness
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2618&Type=2
gro-gun not as effective as anticipated
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2566&Type=2
compressed air less efective than anticipated
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2566&Type=2
more
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=2355&Type=2
There are no perfect ways, however in the end i must retract the 'absurd' statement. From a Profit perspective - selling the garden fork option is awesome!
Minimal overhead, direct labour costs can be reduced with cheap labour, charge the same $85-105 Arborist Rates creating a totally awesome approximate 50% profit margin - genius. ($85/hr, 10hr day, 1 $10.25/hr worker, pickup, $100 fuel, $100 materials = $850 revenue - ($320 COGS + $80 OHead)
Cheers.