Unicender tether advice

[Zack_Washburn]

Hello Treebuzz Community.

I've been reading this board on and off for a while. This is my first post and I want to thank all of you for sharing your ideas and helping people and me to be a better, and safer arborist.

Background for my question:
I have been using a Unicender SRT for the past 6 months. When I first got the Uni I was using a frog system for SRT ascent (Pantin on right foot, Croll chest ascender, CMI handled ascender with foot loop for left foot). I swapped the Croll for the Uni and loved it. I have since had to switch to Texas (sit stand) for SRT ascent because using the Pantin was hurting my right knee. I'm using two footloops connected to a handled ascender and the Uni on an adjustable tether for the Texas system. This has been a big bummer because I love the Pantin and getting use to the slower ascent using the Texas system is hard. Also, I'm using a New Tribe Pro Gear saddle.

I want to get the Uni as "low" as possible when I have all the "slack" tacken up on the tether. I'm using a homemade tether that is very similar to the one Sherrill sells in the attached picture. I will try to post a picture of the actual setup I'm using soon. I tied a prusik loop using some 6mm cord tied with a double fisherman. I'm using a 6 wrap prusik (adjuster) on some beeline (tether) and have made the prusik as short as possible, but it's still too long.

The question:
Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the Uni "lower," short of buying a saddle where I can adjust the bridge length to bring the Uni down (i.e., the setup Tom Dunlap posted a while back)?

What do you think about using a shelled ascender like the Petzl Micrograb instead of a prusik?

p.s., I've sewn a very light suspender that I used to use with the Croll. The suspender is semi-permanently attached to back of my harness and is very easy to take on and off. On a tree with many limbs, I have really been enjoying setting a line at a high TIP, using the Uni as a chest ascender and being able to "free climb" the tree while being auto belayed by the Uni. It's like when I was a kid, but now I can climb higher and be "on belay."

thanks

zack

 

[Jamin_Mayer]

Welcome to Tree Buzz!

A micrograb is okay, but if you'd like to adjust while hanging vertical (under the load of your body weight); I'd suggest a Gri-Gri (or something along those lines).

When ascending I tether out about 18" to fully extend my arms while footlocking single line. Then, when I pirch myself on a limb, I tether in to limb walk or descend.

 

[lync]

Zack
I use a biner clipped directly from the uni to my bridge when i want it in close, I also girth hitched a spectra sling to the uni right next to the first biner,this also has a biner at the end of the sling. Both biners are clipped to my bridge when I ascend, I ,lanyard in and disconnect the short set up, and can extend the uni the length of the sling when I want it away from me. It was simpler that a teather thats adjustable because I only need 2 positions, close and far.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Girth hitching Spectra slings reduces their strength by 50% in some configurations. Nylon would be a better choice if you need to girth hitch.

 

[Zack_Washburn]

Thanks for the welcome Jamin,

I thought about using a Gri-Gri, but I have resistance to using 2 SRT devices together. I'm looking for some other solution with less "moving parts."

thanks again

 

[Zack_Washburn]

lync,

I tried a similar system using beeline for the tether for a while, but without the extra biner. I could try adding an extra biner so I don't have to open my life support biner to "shorten the tether."

I have attached a pic of the current system that I'm not happy with. Hopefully this helps to clarify what I was asking about in the original post.

thanks

zack

 

[Zack_Washburn]

Here is another picture. Ideally, I would like to bring the Uni down to the level of the upper black biner that I'm holding in my hand.

 

[Zack_Washburn]

One last picture that shows the Uni clipped into the upper black biner and the suspender engaged for super smooth self advancing.

Disregard the beeline and prusik cord, I didn't want to untie the tehter system. Also, the little accessory biner clipped into the top hole of the Uni is only used to help the Uni self advance.

zack

 

[Tom Dunlap]

http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1697

Rich Hattier had the basic idea formthis tether. It took about 8-9 iterations to come up with the final design. This can be shortened quite small and lengthened easily without unclipping