treeMOTION bridge replacement?

ATH

ATH

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Findlay, Ohio
Is there a significant reason to use Teufelberger's specific cord for the new bridge as opposed to any other life-support rated rope?
 
I know that someone will be along shortly with recommendations of different ropes that will work. There have been many threads on this subject also, so a search should come up with some more. But I would ask anyone thinking of this to ask yourself, why? What is the primary reason for looking for an alternative for such a critical, life support component?
 
Because I have many pieces of (unused) ropes rated for life support...and I'm a bit of a cheapskate. I'll spend $25 if it makes the difference, but then I still have scraps of other unused pieces. I'm not convinced it makes a difference, but can be easily swayed! (Which is why I asked...)

Thanks!
 
I'm on the frugal side myself, but a harness bridge is such a key component. Also, the manner in which it is used seems to me to be very different from the loading and life of most other ropes.
 
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Not all life support ropes are created equally. Some are ok for use as a bridge. Others not so much. The treemotion bridge is pretty much as good as it gets though. Designed not to self abrade as stated above. They also don't allow individual strand 'splices' (or changeover in production for lack of a better word.) Every strand of that bridge is continuous from end to end. Not the case with most ropes.

There are some other suitable options out there for that application. There are also some damn good climbing ropes that will fail 'quickly' as a bridge. The real difference in the end is potentially not making it home at the end of the day.
 
Challenge with the original TM is that 10mm braided Dyneema core/polyester cover cordage is an optimal fit though the bridge install openings. There's not really anything out there in 10mm that has all the favorable characteristics of the 10mm TM stock bridge. People who had the bright idea to use 10mm hitch cord for a TM bridge (or any harness bridge) have in some cases suffered the consequences.
-AJ
 
While we're on this subject, I just replaced the bridge on my Buckingham Puma saddle. I used 1/2" New England KM III kernmantle with a 10,000 lb tensile strength. The factory bridge was smaller diameter and had a girth hitch at either end. Does anyone see a problem with my new set-up as pictured?
 

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Looks good to me. Kernmantles have a thin sheath, but with the Rook on there, I doubt if you'll have any trouble. Just keep an eye on it. Let us know how it works out, down the road.

If the stopper knots start looking like they're trying to squeeze through the rings, try something bigger... like an Ashley's Stopper Knot.
 
Njdelaney said:
While we're on this subject, I just replaced the bridge on my Buckingham Puma saddle. I used 1/2" New England KM III kernmantle with a 10,000 lb tensile strength. The factory bridge was smaller diameter and had a girth hitch at either end. Does anyone see a problem with my new set-up as pictured?
Click to expand...

KMIII is a 100% no for bridge material. New England ropes says minimum 8:1 sheave diameter for a reason. There is nothing in the world you are going to run on your bridge with a 4" diameter bend radius. Nor should you use teufelberger's Xstatic, Atlantic Braids AYA, or any other rope that states clearly that it should not be used in a moving rope configuration. A bridge is a constantly moving rope with all the wear concentrated in one place.
 
Bob Bob said:
How about 2nd bridges on the 2018 style Treemotion?

I'm planning on replacing my 2018 treemotion bridges with Platinum 10.5 when it's time for a replacement. I'm already using a non-factory set-up by using a second tied bridge, so I don't see the issue with using a different cordage that other manufactures are using for their bridges (like platinum on the New Tribe Onyx). I'm a recreational climber so I'm not worried about insurance coverage while using modified gear.
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I'm certainly not worried about insurance coverage while using modified gear either, but I am worried about making it home at the end of the day and waking up tomorrow. . Not familiar with that rope or saddle, but not all ropes are safe to use as a bridge. There are documented failures out there.
 
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I hadn't seen their no-go for MRS with KM-III before. But, it does have a thin sheath. Maybe that's the reason. Thanks for the information! I've noticed that some of the harness OEMs are OK with 16-strand ropes... those have very thick sheaths.
 
I was trying to avoid replacing with the OEM design because I wanted something I could set up to be adjustable but it may be more trouble than it's worth.
 
Njdelaney said:
While we're on this subject, I just replaced the bridge on my Buckingham Puma saddle. I used 1/2" New England KM III kernmantle with a 10,000 lb tensile strength. The factory bridge was smaller diameter and had a girth hitch at either end. Does anyone see a problem with my new set-up as pictured?
Click to expand...
Whatever u settle on using, I highly recommend u tie off the cord to the rings with dbl fisherman's knots.
 
JeffGu said:
I hadn't seen their no-go for MRS with KM-III before. But, it does have a thin sheath. Maybe that's the reason. Thanks for the information! I've noticed that some of the harness OEMs are OK with 16-strand ropes... those have very thick sheaths.
Click to expand...

I looked around for the 8:1 sheave diameter recommendation for KMIII but couldn't find anything. Probably didn't try hard enough ;-) It's all about the core not the cover for a static kernmantle so this is about the nylon core and construction right? Curious to know more, is it about the Nylon or is is about the core construction and the Nylon? Very interesting.
-AJ
 
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