Tips for bracing a thick crotch, please.

This was our project. WAY under bid for what it was. The crotch was just under 10 foot across and we followed ANSI A300 as close as we could due to the proximity to the dwelling. We started the holes with a 4' long bit and followed then through with the 10 footer. The Threaded rod needed to be bangned through on 2 of the 10 holes but the other pretty much went right through. We also installed 2 cables above to help support the week union. The owner did not allow us to do any pruning while I was up there but it was suggested and declined.
This is the largest european linden in PA so it is rather important to the property.
I was just back the other week and it is doing great, minus the japanese beetle damage.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.404941432900550.93996.151228634938499&type=3

Big Tree- needs quite a bit of weight off before the work. Sorry home owner did not allow this. This falls on them.

Did you install the cables first?

The two exposed braces seem close. Probably a photo, depth issue.

Good job in selling a bracing/cabling job of this nature. Glad that you were saving this tree.
 
Big Tree- needs quite a bit of weight off before the work. Sorry home owner did not allow this. This falls on them.

Did you install the cables first?

The two exposed braces seem close. Probably a photo, depth issue.

Good job in selling a bracing/cabling job of this nature. Glad that you were saving this tree.

They probably do seem very close. All the bolts were spaced around 1' apart horizontally as the BMPs suggested at the time (there is a new edition now, I have not had a chance to compare). Vertically the bolts were 4' apart with the bottom set being 4' off the ground. For a total of 10 bolts total.
Selling the bracing wasnt hard, cause I lost my tail on the job (materials covered and about half the time covered).
Yes I did install the cables first, good thing cause I ended up using the TIP to protect me from a fall off the scaffolding. And with that long bit I was standing right on the edge of the platform.
All in all I learned many lessons on pricing jobs like that and what I was required to do that kind of a job. :sorprendido3:
 
If you had a support on a split co dom over a playground with 5o or more kids under it all day long...would you put a nut on a bolt (and sledge the threads behind it so the nut cannot back off) or screw the nut on a piece of cable just for expediency and less work? Guys that live in severe storm areas know how to makes sure a tree doesn't come apart Tree Frog.
 
Question: Are you referring to wedges? These have failed and I will not use them.

Rig Guy Wire stops are a mechanical connection using a physical connection on the entire cable.

Cons on standard rigging. Too much hardware. Too many failure points both mechanical and human installation error. 1. Nut/washer, 2. Rod, 3. Eye, 4. Dead end grip, 5. cable.

Pros on Wire stops. two potential failure points: 1. Grip, 2. Cable.

As the trunk expands around the cable the stress point on the cable shifts. The Wire stop is also consumed by the tree as the trunk expands. Tree growth around metal is quite strong.

I do use Dead end grips when designing hub and spoke systems using a ring. These are fun and look good to boot.

Lastly, you seem pretty aggressive. Are you a certified arborist? If not then why? by they way I take responsibility for every cable I put in. To answer your question, yes, I would gladly install RGWS in trees over a playground as they are actually a bit larger then the washer that you put on the Eyebolt. Furthermore, why would kids be playing in the playground during a storm event that would bring the tree down?

Thanks
 
This is petty but I could not resist.

Treevet - I live in Florida. Lots of beach and sunshine. Not to mention 5 hurricanes in a year, severe thunderstorms every day during the wet season from May - October, the occasional tornado. You know stuff like that.
 
Tangle, sometimes bare bones tools make the job so hard you never want to do it again. Cutting EHS cable without the right tool is a cast iron b&^ch, for example, and much worse when you're working off the deck without the ability to adequately brace yourself for leverage. A ratcheting wire rope/cable cutter (Baudat makes great cutters) turns that task into a couple minutes of relatively light exertion. I picked one up used on ebay a couple years ago, and I'd never want to be without one again.

3/8" EHS cable comes in 150 foot rolls for about $90. I buy mine from Treestuff. They also sell a heavy duty Buckingham cable dispenser for another $90, which is worth every penny, both for dispensing and storing cable. Trying to wrestle unwound cable back into a roll and holding it in place while you're taping it (and hoping you'll finish with both of your eyes still functional ), just isn't worth saving the $90 bucks this device cost.. Wedge Grips are a great alternative to dead end grips and eye bolts, and install with a fraction of the effort and headache. None of these tools are cheap, but the time they save on the jobs means they pay for themselves quickly, and the exertion and fatigue they reduce makes for safer work.

If you don't already have it, the ISA Tree Support Systems BMP is a $10 booklet you can get from your chapter bookstore, or ISA International, which really breaks down the processes, tools and materials involved.

@cerviarborist where did you buy your baudat cable cutters at? Are they spec'd for ehs cable? Would you recommend one-handed for climbing installation, or two-handed and better work positioning?
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom