Three saws to prune/ remove anything

for pruning, a good top handle (one handed saw) ms200

For removals, 044 & 066

Nate
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I only have four saws 020, husky 351 16 inch, husky 362xp 20 inch, 066 24 inch, and I carry a 36 incher on the truck. I would rather use the 24 incher as it really rips on the 066.
 
MS200T
MS460(24" & 20" setups in toolbox)
MS660

alot of parts are interchangeable between the 660 & 460, saves buying alot of different parts and keeping them inventoried.
 
Well, Marc,
You started a large discussion, I know that you and I are outnumbered on brand choice of saws, but I wouldn't be caught dead buying one of those other things. In my years of being in the wood business, I have found that it is better to stay with what you are comfortable with using. To me, this means using a Husky professional model 353 (yes that is a large climbing saw but to me there is no substitute for cutting fast) with a 16" bar (I don't like those top handled saws because they can't power through the cuts over 3 inches and then have the bar drop out of the way of the branch or piece of wood) for the smaller cuts, then going up to a 372 (you will have to buy a 575 now, which is better than a 372) with a 20" bar for when you have all or most of the brush off. When you are up to the 20" plus wood and you need to be able to cut in one pass, switch up to another 372 or 575 with a 28" bar attached. We also have a saw (3120) with a very long bar, but in the past ten years, we have only used it a few times. If you only use the longer bars when you have to, you will sharpen many fewer teeth when you hit the inevitable concrete or other foreign object. We take down the biggest trees in our area and these are the three main sizes of saws that we use. Personally, I carry a pair of 372's (one with a 20" bar, one with a 28" bar and a 32" bar & chain that I can put on for those trees that a 28 just can't get through cutting from both sides) and an old 362 in my truck. No Husqvarna has ever let me down.
 
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I forgot one very important thing you need. Yes you really can't do tree work without it. An Echo Power Pruner. You will never leave the shop (or home) without it.

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We have one of those-it predates me at this company. We ALWAYS leave without it. It's bulky, heavy, unwieldy, and hard to use for good pruning cuts. I might pull it out for a specific job someday if there's a strange situation, but I can't think offhand what that situation would be.

k
 
We use our stihl power pruner about every day. We use it for small removals, big removals to do all the lower branches while climber gets ready, most elevations, when trying to clear roofs of branches i'll use it while on the rough to get a good clearance level. I love it. Like i said use it EVERY DAY!!!

p.s. If your rushing you will not get a proper pruning cut. But if you take your time and position yourself in a proper position to make the cut. It works great. Just food for thought, do you get a perfect cut when you use a pole pruner or pole saw?
 
ms192T pro 12" bar
ms260 pro 16" bar
ms441 mag 20" bar

We have larger bars for our saws but i perfer the smaller ones for higher chain speed and less wear on the saw if you could fit a 36" bar on the 192 there would be a dumb a$$ somewhere that would try to use it in a tree even though it would be obvious that it wouldnt work they would try none the less. If my 12" 192 can't cut it i go for the 260 and so on and so forth.and it is my observation that running the biggest bar in the manuf. guide will only tear the saw up seen it too many times with my own eyes.right tool right job is the best mindset.
 
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p.s. If your rushing you will not get a proper pruning cut. But if you take your time and position yourself in a proper position to make the cut. It works great. Just food for thought, do you get a perfect cut when you use a pole pruner or pole saw?

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Perfect cut? not every time, I'm sure, but if I don't think I can come close I don't use a pole saw (I don't use one very often, actually). I've made some good cuts with a power pruner, but I've made a lot more bad ones. The longer I use it, the more it wears out my arms and the quality of the work goes down. Maybe that's just me needing some time in the gym.
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Also, we don't do many removals, so it is less useful to us than it might be.
k
 
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Perfect cut? not every time, I'm sure, but if I don't think I can come close I don't use a pole saw (I don't use one very often, actually). I've made some good cuts with a power pruner, but I've made a lot more bad ones.


My thoughts exactly , thank you sir.
 
RE: Power Pruners (Stihl or Echo)

Time and place for every tool Bab. For finesse, residential pruning, not likely as useable.

However, I worked for a company that elevation pruned almost 40,000 street trees for a municipality over a 3 year period.

No chance of making money on that job climbing each and every 8-12" tree to get 8' over the sidewalk and 14' over the road.
 
200T and a 460 here. Plan on next grabbing a 660, then the 361.

Oh, I have a 017 for chipper trimming, so the groundie doesn't fudge the big saws.
 
(Silky Sugoi)335XPT with small tipped bar for pruning, 200T for removals, 372XP with 18" bar for general use and 28" bar for big logs or endless bucking. Bigger bars seem too cumbersome and arduous to keep sharp and cutting straight.
 
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