Three saws to prune/ remove anything

[Colin]

It's just the inbetween chain, that's all. A matter of preference. Say, full comp up to 20", semi up to 30", and full for the rest.

 

[glens]

The few times I've had the 28" on the 066 it's been in hardwood with the bar completely buried swinging through the cut and let me tell you, with full-comp chisel chain it cuts like gangbusters. I couldn't see needing even half-skip chain, much less full-skip on a 36" bar on that saw. Maybe with 48" of cut or something the chain would plug up with chips too much for a full-comp chain but I'd sure try the half-skip chain first. All things being equal, the full-skip chain is going to get to a certain dullness twice as fast as the full-comp (so what if it's easier to sharpen when you've got to do it more often). Full-skip has got to be harder on the saw, too, with the fewer/harder impulses.

Two things that may be a factor in my judgment are that I've never cut big pine and the saw has the "Magnum" front exhaust cover in place (and some/all of that internal basket/baffle may have gotten lost .

 

[Al57]

There always is an ongoing discussion regarding what is best for longer bars,full comp or skip.I've ran both and see little difference in them,in these hardwoods.I have no doubt that in the softer wood in the PNW that full or semi skip would be better.

In theory a person should be able to touch up a full skip chain in half the time it takes to do a full comp.However it theoretically would only stay sharp half as long.

Then too,just how often does a 36" or longer bar come into play? Most likely not to frequent unless you are a Pacific coast logger.I know in my little life my long bars and the big saws only get used on rare occasions,the danged things are heavy.

On the subject of the Stihl 066/ms 660,it will handle about any need for a larger saw that almost anybody would require.

 

[Steve Connally]

I use the 66 all the time. Lots of big pines and hard woods. Plus unfortunately I have made this my stump saw. I dont grind stumps so I dut them to about 4" from the soil. Most of the time this is in the root flair so I need the big bar. I also had to buy an 88 with the big bar just to do 1 tree. The mid east coast and north east has some big-ol-trees. I would love to work someplace where a 28" bar would do all your jobs without having to make multiple cuts to knock down a stump. Also the wood is so dense that I need a saw with some a$$ behind it to get through.

 

[GASoline71]

95% of what I cut are big softwoods. Chip clearance and chain speed are not a problem runnin' full skip out here in the PNW. I might feel different if all I cut were hardwoods. But I don't...

As far as sharpening goes... I'm lazy, so of course I like the full skip in that respect.

Gary

 

[Bergsteiger]

I run a 660 with 36" bar almost daily doing residential tree work. The 880 comes out occasionally with a longer bar. Western Red Cedar, one of the main trees here, often are 4-5' (or larger) diameter in the first 5-10' even if they're only 120' tall.

 

[Collins_Tree]

for hardwoods full comp at .030 on the rakers
If you run full comp at .040 in softwood it will clog/bog

 

[Advantagetree]

A North Carolina treeman, We prefer Husky's about 20 of them. How about the 346XP, 365XP, and 395XP or 3120-if you can handle the weight.

 

[Roger_Barnett]

Late to this party....

My choices:

Trees under 36 dbh
Husky 335, dual port muffler, one mean 200t vanquisher..


woods modded 346XP, or Dolmar 5100S. They'll outcut a stokc 440 in under 20 inch wood.

Modded Dolmar 7900, pulls 36 bar with ease in softwood.


Bigger trees:

335, ported 372, 066

Biggest trees, with big branches:

346

372/7900
3120, modded, and putting out 13.2316784500 hp......

 

[matty]

MS 200T
357xp
395xp or a 288xp if you could buy one new

 

[mtnman8]

Ok Frans
I have a shin 357 with 14 inch bar, a Jons 2071 with 20 inch, Jons 2095 also with 20 inch, but have 34 inch bar for the big stumps. I use the 2071 for larger limbs in the tree ie to big for the shin. Lets not forget my handsaw.
you could get a slightly smaller saw for the middle one, but the 2071 was my big saw until I upgraded to the 2095.
I guess it all depends on what and where you are working.
Have a great day.

 

[whiteyford]

Ms200t
ms 440
ms 660

 

[TimberMcPherson]

MS200

346pp

660 magnum (they are dualport standard here)

I spent my first couple of years doing treework with just a 020 and 066 redlight.

 

[MikePoor]

Stihl ms 200t, Dolmar 7900, Husky 3120

 

[Jamin_Mayer]

In the context of climbing with a saw:

Like the majority here...MS200T most of the time for smaller stuff. I then switch to a MS260 (with a full skip chain). Rarely I have to have the 046 on me to cut stuff. Usually, I have the whole tree on the ground by that point.

I am glad I have not had to attach a 088 to my harness.

 

[Blinky]

I use a 200T and a 440 with a 28" bar, I have a beater 029 for groundies who can't keep a chain out of the dirt.

 

[speelyei]

I cant stand those top handle models. Never have liked 'em.
My pallet of colors: 13" fanno, Stihl 025 for a climbing saw, and an 044 for everything else. 066 for the big stuff and for milling.

 

[Marc_H]

Just an update. I went with the MS 200, 361 and 460 so far so good. I am impressed with how well the little 361 cuts. The vibration dampening is sweet.

 

[countryboypa31]

I'd go stihl 200t, dolmar 5100s, and 7900.
Plus a silky handsaw

Best equipment for the price, in my opinion

 

[Toparboring]

Using husky 338xpt, 362xp, and 372xp
for final cut 385xpg, or ms660
silky handsaws
Nate