This is the Akimbo

[Steve Connally]

Jeff Aztec does pretty not bad. I'm thinking about ordering some Stein Hedera and seeing if that ups the game a little. Hell this is just a demo, I don't even own an akimbo .

 

[DSMc]

Steve, does the Akimbo you are using have a spring loaded cam on the upper arm?

 

[JeffGu]

I'm thinking about ordering some Stein Hedera...

The 24-strand, doublebraid version of it? I've got about 40' of that. Let me dig it out and try it, but I think that one's cover is a little loose feeling, flattens a bit, and might not be firm enough. Just my impressions of it with a ZigZag on it. I set it up as a short DdRT line that I can stuff in a ditty bag. It feels like the cover is kind of baggy. Might just need to be climbed on a bit more, though. I've only used it for a second, work position line... don't think it has ever had much weight on it, yet.

I think I know right where it is. I'll see what it feels like with the Akimbo on it.

 

[JeffGu]

Are any of you guys needing significant differences (2 or more pin holes) between top and bottom settings?

Yes... two holes, on some.

EDIT: Actually, for the 1/2" KM-III, I wrote down 2T, 6B for initial settings on that one. Have not actually had my full weight into it, though, with that rope. Settings will probably change, but that's what got me in the ballpark on the hook in the house (which is located in a place where I can't actually hang from it because it's too close to the wall and some furniture).

 

[Steve Connally]

Steve, does the Akimbo you are using have a spring loaded cam on the upper arm?

I'll have to look but I think so.

 

[Steve Connally]

Jeff I was looking at the 48 strand. The one on sale at ts.

 

[Steve Connally]

What's your favorite so far?

 

[JeffGu]

What's your favorite so far?

Oh, the 48-strand is a kernmantle... yeah, worth a try for sure.
Hands down, my favorite so far is the KM-III MAX rope. But, it's also the only one I've actually had in a tree because... well, shitty weather and I wussed out early. But I did not have to change my settings from what I set them at back at the house, so apparently you can get them real close without actually putting all your weight onto it. Unless another rope that I have works considerably better, I will almost certainly be leaving it on the KM Max rope. That rope isn't brand new, so I don't expect much in the way of changes to the rope. But, it's not all fuzzed up and bleached out, either, so who knows.

 

[JeffGu]

Have been playing with the 1/2" KM-III some more... it doesn't creep under full weight, even with both adjustments at their loosest settings... 1T/6B... but, it also doesn't really work. It's virtually impossible to break it to descend, even using both hands. When it does go, it's pretty much wide open, with not much control. So, that's not looking real promising. Perhaps the RE version will hog out the sideplates/arms like Jaime was talking about in Update #3 video, but this version still has flat plates, and there just isn't room for the big rope to move with weight on it. That's kind of disappointing, because the added friction of the bigger rope looks like it is more than enough to make this thing work for bears and possibly @oldoakman, too. I think the sideplate milling is going to be a must-have for it to work with 1/2" ropes. Possibly even some tweaks to the length of the arms and center section, I don't know.

It does creep on some ropes I've tried, until you get the adjustments dialed in. Even the ZigZag creeped on the KM Max rope, so it doesn't surprise me that this thing will, too, on that slick rope. I went one setting tighter on the lower adjustment (I'm now at 2T/3B) and this seems to have stopped it, without adding too much drag. I wanted to play with the 11.7 Yale ropes some more, but I'm tired. It will have to wait until tomorrow night.

A little bummed about the 1/2" rope, but I knew that could be a problem. I'm thinking the 11.5 to 11.7 ropes are going to be the best. I love the KM Max, but it might not work for anyone much over 200... so I'll start playing with the bigger ones. Also, things could change a little once it wears in a bit.

 

[Tuebor]

Have been playing with the 1/2" KM-III some more... it doesn't creep under full weight, even with both adjustments at their loosest settings... 1T/6B...

Ok, I think there needs to be a standardized reference for hole numbering. I would call the loosest setting 6T/6B...the farthest holes from the screw...and I believe that's how Jaimee refers to them. I think the loosest setting on both top and bottom should be #6. Or #1.

That's one of the reasons I was asking if you are finding large differences between top and bottom. By your numbering, there's a 5-hole difference in friction between top and bottom, but in my mind, there both at #6, so there's no difference.

 

[JeffGu]

I was just going by clockwise, left to right. But I agree, it would make more sense just to refer to the tightest setting as #1 on both of them. I'll restructure my notes accordingly! It's a good thing you're fluent in Akimbo... there needs to be consistency and structure to all new languages.

 

[WaitakKauri]

Richo (@yoyoman) has a vid out on some naming conventions on this. Great idea, but I didn't pay too much attention - no Akimbo, no attento.

That said, I have played on one. It was wet and I didn't have time to fiddle with adjustments (it was all or nothing friction - almost smacked my ass on the ground, talk about ). I was taking with guys who'd had more of a play and the very first thing that came to mind was some convention for knowing the positions. Did this get into the manual? I recall seeing a manual in the background of someone's posted pic. Richo said in the vid he had shared his thoughts earlier with Jamie. Just wondering on this point about naming conventions, I think it's important.

Away, wish I'd joined the funding round. Looks like a amazing device from a great guy who's placed a huge amount to energy, passion and time into this. Nice one Jamie, good luck!

 

[surveyor]

Maybe RE could have small numbers etched beside each hole?

 

[monkeylove]

Maybe RE could have small numbers etched beside each hole?

I think that is a must have Gordon.

 

[Worthaug]

Maybe RE could have small numbers etched beside each hole?

And paint the end of the pin a bright color so you can actually see what setting you're on...


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739

 

[monkeylove]

And paint the end of the pin a bright color so you can actually see what setting you're on...

I am going to try that on mine. Maybe some neon or glow paint. Great idea.

 

[Worthaug]

Or maybe reflective...


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739

 

[DSMc]

There is not much room for numbers. The shadows don't show it but the pins are easily seen when you are holding it. I hope people can get used to this tool without making things more complicated than needed. It is already so much simpler than getting a hitch set right.

 

[monkeylove]

And paint the end of the pin a bright color so you can actually see what setting you're on...

That is a great idea. I am going to try that with some neon or glow paint.

 

[Worthaug]

There is not much room for numbers. The shadows don't show it but the pins are easily seen when you are holding it. I hope people can get used to this tool without making things more complicated than needed. It is already so much simpler than getting a hitch set right.View attachment 42393

How does creating a reference for us to share beta make things more complicated? The light is not always ideal for seeing the pins. It is an excellent, simple tool.


Reed Wortley
CA# SO-6953A
CTSP# 01739