The New Guy Bry.

Good break in tree. Pretty soon you are going to be talking for 10 minuets and showing 1 minuet of actual work explaining your cuts in a education video for all us dweebs.
 
evo said:
Good break in tree. Pretty soon you are going to be talking for 10 minuets and showing 1 minuet of actual work explaining your cuts in a education video for all us dweebs.
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If that ever happens you have my personal permission to drive down here and shoot me in the face Evo. You can grab all my saws and gear as I probably won’t need it anymore. Keys for the 518 are in the draw next to the couch bro.

Treedweeb. You know I’m gonna use that one!
 
Good video and good work.
Bry was running the ropes? Looked a damn sight better than my first day!
 
Levi.CO said:
Sweet action, Rico. damn, a nice sunny day too... I like the camera man views, a change from the typical stuff.
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Thanks Levi. I am not a fan of the go-pro on the climber perspective myself, and much prefer a good ground camera or a drone.
 
Bango Skank said:
Good video and good work.
Bry was running the ropes? Looked a damn sight better than my first day!
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Yea, Bry was running ropes. He has been working with me for a little over a month now. He had some previous experience, but his skill-set was lacking. He is a great kid with a serious work ethic, an eagerness to learn, and he shows up 10 minutes early everyday with a smile his face. He is coming along nicely, and I really couldn't ask for much more!
 
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Damn even with the great technique you got, its gotta be a lotta work chunking down a tree that requires a saw that size. Great you got a guy who already seems to not keep you up there much longer than necessary!
 
New2trees said:
Damn even with the great technique you got, its gotta be a lotta work chunking down a tree that requires a saw that size. Great you got a guy who already seems to not keep you up there much longer than necessary!
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Thanks New2trees. For whatever reason I can stand on a spar chunking down wood all day long. I am naturally built for it, but I was also blessed to learn from some amazing old-timer big wood guys when I was coming up. I am what’s known as a straight legged climber, meaning that when standing in spurs there is almost no bend in my knees, or at the hips. Doing this creates much less tension in the leg, hip and back muscles, allowing for long periods in spurs without fatigue or discomfort. Much like knowing how to use your flipline as a pendulum and pushing up and out when running up a spar, the straight leg thing is a bit of a lost art these days.
 
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rico said:
Thanks New2trees. For whatever reason I can stand on a spar chunking down wood all day long. I am naturally built for it, but I was also blessed to learn from some amazing old-timer big wood guys when I was coming up. I am what’s known as a straight legged climber, meaning that when standing in spurs there is almost no bend in my knees, or at the hips. Doing this creates much less tension in the leg, hip and back muscles, allowing for long periods in spurs without fatigue or discomfort. Much like knowing how to use your flipline as a pendulum and pushing up and out when running up a spar, the straight leg thing is a bit of a lost art these days.
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Wow. Didn't know that was a thing. I've always just naturally stood straight legged and used the flipline to adjust the angle of my dangle. Big saws never bothered me either. Was tring to teach a new climber the other day. His work positioning on the spar looked like he was prepared to poop. Tried to get him to stand up and he wouldn't do it. Afraid of kicking out. What gives these days.
 
Yea. I think many young climbers are prone to lean in and bend at the knees and hips when standing in spurs. Its a very bad habit that many guys never break, so they end up never getting truly comfy in spurs, move like fucking slugs, and get beat up quickly.
 
You have the piece tensioned into the Hobbs with a tiny pendulum but use a face-cut each time, why no snap (mis-match) cut?
And....does the straight leg thing change on much smaller wood?
Thanks.
 
Ooooh Damn! Everyone look close at about the 11 minute mark and watch that bar tip! What's that I see?!

even @rico isn't perfect.

"good, now leter fucken run." might just be my new tag line
 
evo said:
Ooooh Damn! Everyone look close at about the 11 minute mark and watch that bar tip! What's that I see?!

even @rico isn't perfect.

"good, now leter fucken run." might just be my new tag line
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There are all kinds of imperfections in my climbing and cutting Evo, but sadly this ain't one of them. We are swinging logs to another tree here, with a bull line that is set well above, and very close to the tree we are removing. This creates a very steep rope angle which in turn doesn't allow the Hobbs to create much pulling power. I set my rigging on the back side of the spar to slightly change the rope angle and create as much pulling powers as possible. Lets also remember that in a case like this your bull line will offer almost no slack as the piece begins to go over, and this lack of slack can actually offer resistance to the momentum needed to break your hinge. Redwoods grow in very tight groves so this is a scenario I deal with often. An open face undercut, pretension your bull-line as much as possible, tickle your hinge, and once the weight of the piece is moving into your under-cut you can gently remove some your hinge to send it on its way. When swinging near vertical short chunks you run the risk of having your face close up and not having the weight and force from above to break your hinge. What your left with is a 300-800lbs lbs chunk of wood sitting dead in its face without the advantage of momentum to pop your hinge and keep things freely flowing. Fuck that!!! I use this method frequently when swinging logs other trees in tight quarters.
 
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SoftBankHawks said:
You have the piece tensioned into the Hobbs with a tiny pendulum but use a face-cut each time, why no snap (mis-match) cut?
And....does the straight leg thing change on much smaller wood?
Thanks.
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In this setup the bull line is at a very steep angle so the Hobbs is offering almost no pulling power. With no real pulling power, snap cutting a 300-800 lbs piece of vertical wood is not something I care to do. Thats just me though?
 
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rico said:
There are all kinds of imperfections in my climbing and cutting Evo, but sadly this ain't one of them. We are swinging logs to another tree here, with a bull line that is set well above, and very close to the tree we are removing. This creates a very steep rope angle which in turn doesn't allow the Hobbs to create much pulling power. As Redwoods grow in very tight groves this is a scenario I deal with often. An open face undercut, pretension your bull-line as much as possible, tickle your hinge, and once the weight of the piece is moving into your under-cut you can cut some of your hinge to send it on it way. Lets remember with near vertical short chunks you run the risk of having your face close up and not having the weight and force from above to break your hinge. What your left with is a 600-1000 lbs chunk of wood sitting dead in its face without the advantage of momentum to pop your hinge and keep things freely flowing. Fuck that!!! I use this method frequently when swinging logs other trees in tight quarters.
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Just flicked you what’s on the end of the stick. I never said it mattered. It’s a good ole boring removal video no drama and shows taking ones time keeps the job fluid on a production level.
 
Totally agree that it is just another boring, no drama removal Evo, but it did bring us to a conversation about some of the subtleties of rigging, cutting, and swinging short vertical chunks to a nearby tree with steep rope angles.
I sometimes use the expression "cutting ones hinge is very rarely a good idea". This is one such scenario were it is a good idea, if done properly
 
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rico said:
Totally agree that it is just another boring, no drama removal Evo, but it did bring us to a conversation about some of the subtleties of rigging, cutting, and swinging short vertical chunks to a nearby tree with steep rope angles.
I sometimes use the expression "cutting ones hinge is very rarely a good idea". This is one such scenario were it is a good idea, if done properly
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Yup... top tie in a remote tree. With a face and the groundies ability to take up slack this does many good things. First being the lowering line helps act like a weak tag pulling the piece off the spar, if the groundie can take up the slack, this also creates little to no shock load. All good techniques, none really stood out, because when I use to run ropes this was just SOP.

A snap cut wouldn’t work well. Likely not enough pre tension to pop the log off the spar without a lot of muscle. Two groundies would be required, one to crank like mad, one to tail the line and be ready to run. In this situation one would be exposed under the load or damn close to it. Instead of the log laying down into the rigging, it would certainly bounce creating a needless shock load.

If there is room the climber can make the face slightly more than 90 degrees to the spar, using the closing of the face to gently pretension the lowering line, but this type of movement generates swing
 
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