The Estwing Drill Hammer

[ward]

For years I've used a short handle Estwing Drill Hammer (I think it is about 3 lbs.) for pounding wedges. I first learned of the virtues of mallets as opposed to axes early on. But I must say that this little hammer rocks: it has an all metal handle and a vibration dampening grip. I have pounded wedges in all sorts of trees with this little hammer and it has rarely limited me.

I'm going to get the long handled 4lb Estwing Drill Hammer for an upgrade. I will be able to g-o t-o t-o-w-n on the wedges with this thing.

Its not that I don't want an axe for pounding wedges...its that I don't need one. They have always seemed poorly designed for the work and with the added factor of a blade. I use an axe for splitting wood and shaping wood objects. I just don't see why we need them for pounding wedges in residential tree care.

Am I wrong?

Mallet or Axe?

 

[bonner1040]

I use an 8lb sledge with a 36" handle.

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Raz...w=%7Bkeyword%7D

 

[ward]

That's certainly one option. I like the swing weight of the Estwing...and I have been surprised at how few times I have not been able to move the wedges. I've always used the GRCS bar as a wedge pounder if need be.

8lbs. seems like a lot to have to move back and forth to get the speed and dexterity needed to place wedges with precision and good timing. Not to mention the difficulties of precision striking the wedge when they are "doubled" up.

Hardhead wedges are great: they deliver the force of the blow so much better than even the best plastic wedge. That having been said, I like the Double Taper 7D, too, for smaller wood.


de gustibus non est disputandum

 

[Treeswinger]

I use a rope and a skidsteer!

 

[ward]

9/10 I'll use rope controlled persuasion. Even so, I may pound a wedge or two at various stages...

 

[Gord]

An axe is without a doubt the tool for the job. Between 3 and 4 lbs, poll balanced with the bit (important) and ground to near right angles. You never stack wedges Ward?

 

[Tom Dunlap]

[ QUOTE ]
...poll balanced with the bit (important) and ground to near right angles.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'poll balanced' or 'ground to near right angles'.

Would you please explain?

 

[ward]

I'm glad an axe man speaks up!

I've stacked the wedges and used the mallet. I can see the efficacy of the poll on the axe. Thats why the big boys in the woods use an axe. You need a lot of swing room, too, with that mighty axe. My point is whether this tool is right for residential work (generally) speaking or whether the mallet is both safer and (a bit) better at stacking em up!

 

[Gord]

Tom the back of the axe should of similar weight as the blade. If the blade is considerably heavier the axe tends to wobble when you strike the wedges. The back of the axe should have a flat surface and all corners should be square. Some manufacturers grind the top and bottom of the poll round and it makes for a terrible wedging axe. That's one of my dislikes with a sledge- it's got rounded edges, meaning anything less than a direct hit glances off, potentially striking your leg or face or whatever. The curved handle of the axe keeps your hands away from the tree better than a straight handle. If you drive a wedge even with the wood you can usually use the narrow head of the axe to drive it a bit further into the kerf. Good wedging is done with precision and fast strikes. There's a lot to efficient wedging that it's very difficult to learn in a residential setting.

 

[ward]

Gord, You make some good points. Can you recommend a good axe--not too pricey?

The old Estwing does a good job staying true through the strike, especially if coupled with hardhead wedges-not any rebound. Very accurate striking--even when they are doubled (the Estwing has a squarish head that can individually strike the wedge heads). I will admit that the larger head on the mallet doesn't allow driving the wedges past flush as the thinner poll on the axe would--which would make all of the difference at times.