termination for splittail on carabiner

D

d5md

Location
north augusta sc
My question is from a saftey stand point acceptable to put your anchor knot on the same biner as your splittail? it seems to me to work alot smoother than having seperate biners . I have never had a problemwith sideloading on the biner doing this and you dont have the problem with the biners getting crossed up I use the knut with a doublefisherman anchor knot on the same biner . Any thoughts on this?
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

As a matter of physics and 'biners-The more the load is moved away from the carabiner spine/toward the nose(the part the gate closes onto) the lower the yield point of the Biner/closer to overloading it you are. Some 'biners such as the Omega Jake are rated based on the load riding on the center of the radius of the end well away from the spine-Still moving load toward the nose will lower the yield strength.
Having said all of that... we do have a substancial saftey margin built into our gear and many guys cram everything onto one 'biner without incident.
 
It is just fine to run your setup that way. I used to climb on a single biner untill I met the Hitchclimber! You use an HMS carabiner, right? Nice, wide top to fit all your terminations? The loading pattern isn't optimal, but like Stumper says, we are well within the working limits of the biners.
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

There is a research project done by HSE in the UK about carabiners. It's in a TB thread or two.

One of the conclusions of the research was that terminating more than one rope on a d or oval biner shifted the load towards the spine. This puts a larger load on the gate leg like Stumper mentioned.

On some smaller biners two rope terminations slip over and interfere with the locking sleeve and hinge action of the gate. This could lead to a biner getting jammed open. there is never a good time for that to happen.

My SOP is to use an HMS style biner for more than one termination. With a bit of searching you can find two biners that nest together without gate banging.
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

Interesting. I terminate everything into one biner also.
 

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Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

You don't say, Mahk!
grin.gif
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

Mangoes;

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by those links, but I think you're pointing out that I should have been more precise with my terms--or at least explained a little more.

The Anchor Bend is a hitch. It is sometimes called the Anchor Hitch. I wrote both names and separated them with a slash (/), but the correct name is Anchor Bend.
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

It's seems like it should work fine but doesn't that negate the benefit of easily throwing in a new TIP without untying?

I have my termination on a steel biner and my VT on an aluminum HMS biner. That way, when I need to throw my rope up to a new TIP I just unclip and heave that nice heavy biner up to the next crotch and it comes back down nice and easy.
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

[ QUOTE ]
Interesting. I terminate everything into one biner also.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have the same set-up. Why not have a spliced eye on that climbing line?
 
Re: termination for splittail on carabiner

Some of the old texts speak of bending a line to a rail; whereas our standard definitions call that a hitching; curiously that is only held for certain lacings (such as Anchor) historically.

In my mind's eye; i call an Anchor Hitch; a RoundTurn Overhand or RoundTurn HalfHitch more properly. And then a Scaffold/Dbl-Trp Noose whatever as an Anchor Hitch to self; to form eye. Being maid in the air to self; i'd think we could say knot; but mounted, we'd go more towards hitch; unless to extend another line; we might say bend.

But, a rose by any other name; i think it is the mechanics that count; like in trees. It is not our visual and naming that rule (except in our own self important/serving imaginations); but rather the functions of mechanical (and biological) balance(s).

For function; i go with Brendov's Termination to the outside. But, as it bears half load; for greater strength arguemeant; i'd have to say 1 of the 1/4 load hitch/tail ends would be more properly toward the gate/side of the open hook of the krab; moused by the gate.
 
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