tailgate chainsaw sharpening

Ok Tom I now have to maintain that if the cutters are different lengths the chain will run rough in the kerf. That vid from stihl backs this up and I knew that when I learnt some training vid or written stuff stated this I did not say this without a firsthand knowledge of reading it somewhere. After filing my chains for some time I have never had a rough handling chain by sticking to my regimen. I am quite fussy with my methods and they are consistant and because I cut many hardwoods I cannot accept dull chains as they piss me off. Just my $.02 from what I have learnt. That Stihl vid backs up what I say about mismatched cutters.
 
Swing...if they're different lengths AND the depth guages are the same the cut will be rough of course. Keeping the depth gauges the same so that equal amounts of wood is shaved off by each tooth will give a smooth cut. Not smooth like planed wood...less vibration.

If you've ever set the cap iron on a handplane you'll see how each tooth on a chain shaves off a curl of wood.

http://lumberjocks.com/Betsy/blog/4768
 
Now that makes sense Tom I see where you were coming from, the depth gauges set with each tooth will give the smooth run. Cool.
 
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But back dragging a file??????? The true safety concern with his filing is he is pulling the chain back toward himself, if he were to slip he could cut the hands he uses for teaching. I tell you what, next time you cut a limb off a tree with you hand saw take it out of the wood on each push stroke, it dulls the blade.

No not really, watch it though, on your push stroke the saw dust that was stuck in the teeth comes out (at least some of it). File is the same way, except it is designed to cut steal.


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Okay I see where you're coming from, but if you buy a decent hand saw you can sharpen it again after dulling it, have you ever tried to sharpen a file?

And if you pull your handsaw out of the cut and tap it on something you'll clear the sawdust out just like you should with a file.
 
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Okay I see where you're coming from, but if you buy a decent hand saw you can sharpen it again after dulling it, have you ever tried to sharpen a file?

And if you pull your handsaw out of the cut and tap it on something you'll clear the sawdust out just like you should with a file.

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The difference between my handsaw and file is about $55. I am willing to give up some useful life of a file if it saves me time. As we all know time is money. It takes me right around 4 or 5 minutes to sharpen a 20" chain (that isn't wrecked) with a quick, light back drag. I have tried pulling the file out after east stroke and it doubled my time. For $2, I will wear the file out quicker to get back to work quicker. Saving the file costs me $8 -$10, each filing, for a two dollar part. Of course the best way to save money is not dull your chain :-) .
The same holds true for my handsaw. When it gets dull I put a new blade on and the old one goes in the scape steel pile. Its not worth my time to try and sharpen it. I've never been happy with the outcome.
I will agree tapping the handsaw and the file are very helpful in keeping both clear of shavings, but it would keep it sharper longer. It just makes room for the next particle to be stored until the next tap.
 
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