Storm Damage Pruning Literature Sought

southsoundtree

Been here much more than a while
Location
Olympia, WA
Wondering if anybody can point me to some literature with good credentials for my big boss about pruning storm damaged trees.

We had a big snow and ice event here, to which the trees are not accustomed.

We were working on some London Plane trees which had already been topped about 15-20 years ago. Many broken leaders which emerged from the topping wounds. I reduced some broken leads to laterals definitely smaller than the "1/3 the size of the parent branch" guideline for optional (versus storm damage management) pruning, rather than remove the entire lead back to a 6" +/- cut at the the site of the old topping wound.

My reasoning for reduction cuts rather than thinning all the way to the main trunk was to create smaller wounds further from the main trunk, where there were already large heading cuts. The current size of the trunks where there are the old topping wounds are somewhere in the range of 12-18" diameter.

Thanks.
 
Funny you should ask...See Arborist News June 2009 and 2010. Based on peer reviews, their credentials are solid. I'll also send you pdfs of gilman etc concurring work, if you want PhD credentials.

O and the 1/3 guideline was removed from ANSI ten years ago. but it will never go away...:(
 

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Yes Please Guy.

I found the TB Article you wrote with info on SGR and storm pruning.

I have looked into Gilman's website and some literature.

I'd welcome any additional info, especially with Ph.D. credentials, as my big boss is a Ph.D., so he would regard that highly (though many of us know that a Ph.Ds. knows a lot about a very small, narrow field, and sometimes very little about the 'real world').

I know someone that has a Ph.D. and teaches forestry at a public university, with almost zero real world experience.
 
If you read his research with Grabosky on pruning you can get a lot more Pile high and Deep citations. Link below.

December starts the season for one of the most devastating events ever for trees: ice storms. When trees in your area suffer catastrophic branch breakage, what will you do? Before Nature forces you to confront that question, I’d like to share my experiences following an ice storm in 2002. Canopy trees in central North Carolina, many of them willow oak, Quercus phellos, lost more than half of their crowns. Instead of being removed, the branches were cleaned, headed back to buds at nodes where lateral branches used to be. That tale was told in TCIA magazine’s April 2003 issue; please review the background article at the website link…..The present article looks at the responses that those trees have made since that time and the recent restoration pruning done in response to the trees’ growth. In conclusion, we will look at ways to apply the lessons the trees seem to be teaching us to trees and branches damaged by storms, topping, and other catastrophes.

HEADING for BETTER FORM, and STABILITY
Trees with 50% or greater crown loss used to be candidates for basal pruning. In 2002, leaving large stubs in trees was even more controversial than it it is today. One urban forester reviewed our alternative specifications that would allow this practice, and pronounced them “a preposterous truckload of tripe”. After looking up “tripe” in the dictionary, it became clear that we would not be working for that municipality. But after looking at the science behind the practice, most professionals agree that it is a proper technique. However, a few still hold the view that there is no proper heading cut in a mature tree. I hope those few will consider these results, and reconsider that view. Before we think about ice storms, let’s look to the subtropics, and the protocol followed by arborists in Florida after catastrophic hurricanes in 2004-5.

“Immediately after the storm, the canopy should be cleaned by removing hazards such as…broken limbs. Cleaning also includes making smooth pruning cuts behind jagged branch tips to allow healthy development of new growth. Very little live wood should be removed because the tree is stressed, and needs to use energy stored in the limbs to recover.” In Assessing and Restoring Trees after a Hurricane: Urban Forest Hurricane Recovery Program, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP29100.pdf Dr. Ed Gilman’s team at the University of Florida goes on to say: “Storm damaged trees may not have a lateral branch present for making a good reduction cut. In that case, a heading cut may be preferred over removing the limb. Removing an entire limb could reduce energy reserves in the tree, create a large trunk wound, and lead to decay...A heading cut is made at a node along the stem, leaving a stub.”

These nodes are located where former lateral branches were first shaded, as the tree grew outward, then shed, because they were no longer harvesting enough sunlight to earn their keep. When they fall to the ground, the same concentration of undifferentiated “scar” tissue that can readily close over the wounds, so they are the best places to make heading cuts. However, the trees were not pretty after this treatment. The big fat stubs looking to inexperienced viewers like the victims of a partial topping job. But is a heading cut the same as topping? Again from Florida: “No! Topping is a harmful practice where the entire canopy of a (n undamaged) tree is severely reduced with many large heading cuts. Topping (also called lopping, hatracking, and dehorning) can lead to decay and reduce tree vigor. Heading cuts should not be used as a standard practice on healthy trees.”

RETRENCHMENT

REJUVENATION

REITERATIONS

IMPLICATIONS
 
Great post, Guy. I'm still not certain how to find a true node on larger branches. I can understand cutting back to solid wood, but if the cut lands in an internode, will the new growth form differently (better/worse) than from a true node?
 
" I'm still not certain how to find a true node on larger branches."

How hard have you looked? A hand lens can locate dormant buds. Bumps, bulges, old stubs might indicate growth points. An excellent indicator is a reduction in diameter.

" I can understand cutting back to solid wood, but if the cut lands in an internode, will the new growth form differently (better/worse) than from a true node?'

Definitely--I think the wording is to cut back to the first good node behind the damage. Growth from preexisting/dormant/suppressed buds is more orderly and better anchored than growth from newly formed/adventitious buds.
 
Guy, thanks for the reply! Are you saying that a hand lens can find dormant buds on a stem of any diameter? I have seen many buds on Oaks that form around sprouts, which must mean that is a node (yes?). I will be bringing a hand lens with me to work now.

Also, can growth extension on undamaged wood be used to help in determining the length between nodes on other, older stems, or would extension vary too much in certain deciduous tree with lower NUE's?
 
"Are you saying that a hand lens can find dormant buds on a stem of any diameter?"

Geez, give em an inch and they want a mile. no, not ANY diameter, or every species either. But Many, yes. Even before the hand lens comes out, you canrun both hands over the branch and and feel for them.

"I have seen many buds on Oaks that form around sprouts, which must mean that is a node (yes?)."

Bingo, you got it.

" I will be bringing a hand lens with me to work now."

Why not? Doesn't do any good in the shop, and it doesn't weigh much.

"Also, can growth extension on undamaged wood be used to help in determining the length between nodes on other, older stems, or would extension vary too much in certain deciduous tree with lower NUE's?"

Yes, for example 6" is a common extension on willow oak. re NUE, ?????
 
Guy, I was referring to Nutrient Use Efficiencies (NUE), and thinking that deciduous trees with lower NUE's may respond to positive or negative growing conditions with more or less extension, respectively.
 

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