Starting to restore my new/old 220 hour 2003 Bandit 65 chipper (23 hp Kohler) to serve as my back up chipper

[erwin]

Mine will attached near the coupler, maybe back 1-1.5'.

whats the height of the 12” caster, 12”+4”=16”? R u going to mount directly under ur tongue, r u going to fab something to make it higher so the tongue will b more or less level? Then some mechanism to fold it up for transport?

 

[southsoundtree]

Quick to bolt on/ around the tongue, 4 bolts, onto two bars with holes on the top side of the tongue.
Stored the rest of the time.

Need to drill/ grind the two bars, and will post a picture when I get to it.

 

[erwin]

Put another 4 hours into it. Flipped the knives and anvil. Turned out that the setting of the anvil did not go as easy as planned. The throat is much longer or deeper than that Of a 6” Vermeer. U can’t reach in n gap it with a feeling gauge. End up duck taping a hack saw blade to the cutting edge and I worked well.

there’s nothing wrong with the factory autofeed, just the connectors did not stand well against long years of exposure. Got it working like a charm now.

I’m pretty happy that I’m ahead now. The machine is pretty much running 100%. Will do the painting and other cosmetic thing later.

 

[evo]

Put another 4 hours into it. Flipped the knives and anvil. Turned out that the setting of the anvil did not go as easy as planned. The throat is much longer or deeper than that Of a 6” Vermeer. U can’t reach in n gap it with a feeling gauge. End up duck taping a hack saw blade to the cutting edge and I worked well.

there’s nothing wrong with the factory autofeed, just the connectors did not stand well against long years of exposure. Got it working like a charm now.

I’m pretty happy that I’m ahead now. The machine is pretty much running 100%. Will do the painting and other cosmetic thing later.

Thats a really good idea!

 

[Merle Nelson]

Dielectric grease for wire connections.

That swivel caster is tall enough that I had a second jack mounting tab welded on much lower on the jack so that it would fit in a vertical position when starting the process to jack that up off the truck hitch.

Bolt the swivel caster to a jack "foot" that has a pin to retain it. Then have a second "foot" with pin you keep as flat. You need the flat "foot" to jack up feed wheel when debris is jammed in there.

Tire also allows you to jack tongue way up in the air which can overcome not having an adjustable chute when you need to shoot chips far or high.

 

[erwin]

Yes. I did PACK as much grease in the connectors as I can. As to the casters I’m still be looking around to go with the best design. I like the idea of using the caster on the bottom of ur Jack to raise the chip discharge though.

 

[erwin]

Can you flip the existing end-of-discharge-chute deflector? Fabricate one that will mount "upside down" giving the chips a ramp from which to launch, gaining horizontal travel?

I've seen this done on some Vermeers, IIRC.

Borrowing that idea, I’m thinking just add a bottom piece to the factory deflector. That way it’ll help chips go higher n still love oem.

 

[erwin]

Some more work done to it:

replaced wheel bearing and race and repacked it on both side. After all old grease dried up over the years, moisture accumulated and the bearing cage all fell apart.

drained all old gas, used a whole gallon of iso-propyl alcohol to get rid of all moisture in the tank. There was at least 2 quarts of water on bottom. lots of rust on the bottom of the tank.

hydraulic fluid looks a little milky. going to replace the fluid n filter. BTW, what size filter is it? can I get it from auto part store? the filter is all white, no information on it. Thx. Erwin

 

[southsoundtree]

I've heard of people shaking gravel in a rusty tank to break off the loose stuff and grind away at some of the rust.


There are tank sealing products. I've seen/ heard of motorcycle tank products when I was having rust in my tank issues (replaced with plastic). Red-Kote is one that popped up upon a quick search. That kinda thing might help a lot.

 

[VenasNursery]

Some more work done to it:

replaced wheel bearing and race and repacked it on both side. After all old grease dried up over the years, moisture accumulated and the bearing cage all fell apart.

drained all old gas, used a whole gallon of iso-propyl alcohol to get rid of all moisture in the tank. There was at least 2 quarts of water on bottom. lots of rust on the bottom of the tank.

hydraulic fluid looks a little milky. going to replace the fluid n filter. BTW, what size filter is it? can I get it from auto part store? the filter is all white, no information on it. Thx. Erwin

Put dry gas in your hydraulic tank and run it 1-2 hrs it your fluid will look new and not like milk anymore

 

[erwin]

Put dry gas in your hydraulic tank and run it 1-2 hrs it your fluid will look new and not like milk anymore

really! Ithought that u can only do it to the gas tank. I'll look into it. Thx

 

[erwin]

I've heard of people shaking gravel in a rusty tank to break off the loose stuff and grind away at some of the rust.

sounds like a cool idea. I bet it'll work well. The lose rust in there doesn't bother me since I need to change the in-line filter often anyway. One thing I'll do routinely from now on is to add some isopropyl once a while.