- Location
- Hobart, Tasmania
SRT
- Thread starter Sawdust
- Start date
- Location
- Hobart, Tasmania
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tom Dunlap:
If a climber is going to work off of SRT, using a descending tool of some kind would be better than just using a friction hitch backed up by an eight or other tool.
---------
A Gri Gri can be used
. .... When I;m in a working position, I throw a half hitch over the release handle to eliminate any creep down the rope.
Tom<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
--A nice trick I found is to use a simple carabiner to change the direction on the rope- imagine it like a SRT descending system with a safety above, except the descending device is just a carabiner clipped on. I find that its enough extra friction to control my descent and not put any friction on the knot- and it keeps the tail nice and close.
-- Also, the rather obviosuly titled QAS system in On Rope is good to have handy. Its just a handled ascender you can snap on with one hand. If you stop on a grigri or anything else, quickly snap on the ascender above the device as another backup. Push it up as high as it will go without having your weight on it.
If a climber is going to work off of SRT, using a descending tool of some kind would be better than just using a friction hitch backed up by an eight or other tool.
---------
A Gri Gri can be used
. .... When I;m in a working position, I throw a half hitch over the release handle to eliminate any creep down the rope.
Tom<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
--A nice trick I found is to use a simple carabiner to change the direction on the rope- imagine it like a SRT descending system with a safety above, except the descending device is just a carabiner clipped on. I find that its enough extra friction to control my descent and not put any friction on the knot- and it keeps the tail nice and close.
-- Also, the rather obviosuly titled QAS system in On Rope is good to have handy. Its just a handled ascender you can snap on with one hand. If you stop on a grigri or anything else, quickly snap on the ascender above the device as another backup. Push it up as high as it will go without having your weight on it.
- Location
- turnersville nj
unless I'm wrong I think Sawdust means that the not will be his climbing knot in a split-tail system after his ascent not on a single line.Right or wrong Rob?If I'm right I think a judge vwould like to see at least four wraps.
As for working on a single line I sometimes will use a vt with a couple of half hitches and a figure eight ,as John posted .
As for working on a single line I sometimes will use a vt with a couple of half hitches and a figure eight ,as John posted .
I tried my first ascent on a single line today after picking up my Pantin at Vermeer. I wanted to try out something I've been thinking about for a week or so. I used the Pantin on my ankle, and tied in to the single line with a Distal using Ultra Tech line. Instead of a tender pulley, I used a Mini-Traxion. It fit nicely on a Petzl Williams biner. When weighting my hitch, the Mini-Traxion took the weight. This kept my hitch from locking up but it was still in place in case anything happened to the Mini-Traxion.
I tried two variations. One with the hitch and M-T attached to my belt, and one with that biner connected to my belt via a 26" strap. Using the strap kept the ascender and hitch out of my way, but required more time to tie in once at the top.
I found that the M-T must be removed to descend. The lever to lock it open tends to slip when descending, and it will shred your rope. But hopefully this method will give me an easier option when faced with a tall tree to ascend. I've never been able to footlock and this is a LOT easier than air-humping. I'm usually too tired to do much work after air-humping 60'.
I tried two variations. One with the hitch and M-T attached to my belt, and one with that biner connected to my belt via a 26" strap. Using the strap kept the ascender and hitch out of my way, but required more time to tie in once at the top.
I found that the M-T must be removed to descend. The lever to lock it open tends to slip when descending, and it will shred your rope. But hopefully this method will give me an easier option when faced with a tall tree to ascend. I've never been able to footlock and this is a LOT easier than air-humping. I'm usually too tired to do much work after air-humping 60'.
- Location
- North Wales, United Kingdom
Ah! freefall logs Irradicable...much safer.
To answer your question, I take the log table for Oak/Beech (which is the heaviest timber I'm likely to be rigging) and work out the likely green weight of various lenghts and diameters. I'll then rig between 4 and 6 foot sections and quadruple the weight to compensate for when it hits the rigging. i.e. a 200Kg section multiplied by 4 equals 800Kg multiplied by a 10:1 safety factor equals a 8000Kg breaking strain rope (somewhere between a 16mm and 20mm double braid). If the work can be let to run, a slightly larger piece or larger safty factors can be used. I have come up with some simple concepts for practicing a rule of thumb on this. The next stage is to test it in the field and lab with dynomometers.
The sections may seem a little short, but the fall distance is measured from the centre of mass - longer piece, higher forces.
To answer your question, I take the log table for Oak/Beech (which is the heaviest timber I'm likely to be rigging) and work out the likely green weight of various lenghts and diameters. I'll then rig between 4 and 6 foot sections and quadruple the weight to compensate for when it hits the rigging. i.e. a 200Kg section multiplied by 4 equals 800Kg multiplied by a 10:1 safety factor equals a 8000Kg breaking strain rope (somewhere between a 16mm and 20mm double braid). If the work can be let to run, a slightly larger piece or larger safty factors can be used. I have come up with some simple concepts for practicing a rule of thumb on this. The next stage is to test it in the field and lab with dynomometers.
The sections may seem a little short, but the fall distance is measured from the centre of mass - longer piece, higher forces.
- Location
- magalia california
Hey Tom, Jerry said you put some tubbing on the lower bar of the GLeasy system. Hows it working out ? Have you used the uppers? If you get a chance , get a copy of our last rec climb from Jerry..He did a great job as usual.
Latter,
Greg
Latter,
Greg
- Location
- Overland Park, Kansas
Does anyone have on file a copy of that article from TCI. I haven't seen it yet. Sounds like a great idea, at least from what i can understand of it. Sure wish i could get a little more clarification though..Thanks <font color="black"> </font color> <font color="black"> </font color>
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Which TCI article?
Greg,
I took a piece of 1" tubular webbing and slipped a piece of plastic tubing inside then sewed on a plastic buckle to adjust the size of the loops. Having the tubing inside keeps the stirrups open and I don't have to use my hand to hold the webbing aside.
Tom
Greg,
I took a piece of 1" tubular webbing and slipped a piece of plastic tubing inside then sewed on a plastic buckle to adjust the size of the loops. Having the tubing inside keeps the stirrups open and I don't have to use my hand to hold the webbing aside.
Tom
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