SRT
- Thread starter Sawdust
- Start date
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
BigJon,
Hey! Let goa m' leg, buddy!
You're not serious are you? Do you really use your climbing line as a pull over line and then climb on it again? Generally, once a rope is rigged it's a rigging rope.
Tom
Hey! Let goa m' leg, buddy!
You're not serious are you? Do you really use your climbing line as a pull over line and then climb on it again? Generally, once a rope is rigged it's a rigging rope.
Tom
- Location
- turnersville nj
Tom I think John means A tag/pull line on the piece your going to take then descend down on that not your climbing line ,we do this all the time.
- Location
- below I20, Georgia
Tom,
How long of a piece of that spar are you droppin' at a time that you need to rap down to your next cut? With or without a pullover line attached?
Just a rookie listening to the pros.
How long of a piece of that spar are you droppin' at a time that you need to rap down to your next cut? With or without a pullover line attached?
Just a rookie listening to the pros.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
Being able to work or rap while sitting in my saddle and not having to down climb with a lanyard is the key here. Even if the chunk is short, it's easier to move around with a rope. That keeps the load off of my legs and on the rope. by the time I get to the spar I finf that any time I can sit instead of stand is a relief.
Tom
Tom
- Location
- below I20, Georgia
How big a chunk will you push off the spar without a pullover line? The pulpwood people around here only want 12'6" logs and when the diameter gets up there, that's alot of weight over your head.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Irradicable:
How big a chunk will you push off the spar without a pullover line? The pulpwood people around here only want 12'6" logs and when the diameter gets up there, that's alot of weight over your head.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I had a bad experience several years ago blocking down a pine tree. I chunked down a 6' piece (10"-12" diameter) without a tag line on it. I was also standing too low in relation to my cut, cutting at shoulder height instead of mid-chest height. I accidentally cut through my hinge and had one hand up on the log to push. I pushed the bottom out and the top of the log came back on me, smashing my thumb against the top of the spar. 13 stitches to close up my thumb but they couldn't sew the area next to the nail.
Since then I still get apprehensive blocking down pines, and will not take a piece bigger than 3' unless it has a rope on it. My thumb never healed properly, and it can still break open if I'm not careful with it 7 years later. To heck with the pulpwood people, they can have the logs I can drop from the ground.
How big a chunk will you push off the spar without a pullover line? The pulpwood people around here only want 12'6" logs and when the diameter gets up there, that's alot of weight over your head.
I had a bad experience several years ago blocking down a pine tree. I chunked down a 6' piece (10"-12" diameter) without a tag line on it. I was also standing too low in relation to my cut, cutting at shoulder height instead of mid-chest height. I accidentally cut through my hinge and had one hand up on the log to push. I pushed the bottom out and the top of the log came back on me, smashing my thumb against the top of the spar. 13 stitches to close up my thumb but they couldn't sew the area next to the nail.
Since then I still get apprehensive blocking down pines, and will not take a piece bigger than 3' unless it has a rope on it. My thumb never healed properly, and it can still break open if I'm not careful with it 7 years later. To heck with the pulpwood people, they can have the logs I can drop from the ground.
You would use SRT descinding as an extra safety option when drop hitching wood or as a safety precaution to be used instead of walking down a spur on spikes with just a lanyard . At times when drop hitching the piece of wood being roped smacks back into the trunk causing the trunk to violently shake. You would use the SRT tie in as a second safety tie in (besides your lanyard). If your spikes where to kick out it would prevent you from falling.
[ October 02, 2002: Message edited by: Sep ]
[ October 02, 2002: Message edited by: Sep ]
Sep, so what you are saying is you are lanyard in and also tied in with a traditional SRT set up that is retrieveable? What I mean is that the SRT is setup like a choker? With this setup the choker could be can slide open or exspand.
My question here is where is the safety if say there is too much pull or lean and it either barber chairs or splits down the log? When drop crotching wood you should always have it choked off with a your climbing line tie in at a single point. This will help keep the log together and wont suck you into the tree.
This shouldn't happen if all is planned right. Always remember with a heavy lean you stand a better chance of this happening. This is where plunge cutting your backcut to the amount of hinge you want to leave and then cutting strap in the back of the cut off.
My question here is where is the safety if say there is too much pull or lean and it either barber chairs or splits down the log? When drop crotching wood you should always have it choked off with a your climbing line tie in at a single point. This will help keep the log together and wont suck you into the tree.
This shouldn't happen if all is planned right. Always remember with a heavy lean you stand a better chance of this happening. This is where plunge cutting your backcut to the amount of hinge you want to leave and then cutting strap in the back of the cut off.
- Location
- below I20, Georgia
I don't worry about a pine barber chairin' and suckin' me into the tree unless we start thinking about trying to pull the top 30 ft. or so out of a tree. Most of the time I don't even dap the chunk, just 1 level cut and push it over or slide it off the bar and let it go down but cut first.
- Location
- Canon City ,CO
I've never worked in a location where salvage other than as firewood was a viable option.(Well technically I have-as a kid my dad salvaged some saw logs in N.Indiana. Also salvage a few bow staves occassionally.) I block down pines in firewood blocks(sometimes 2 firewood lengths) I know that it means more cuts and occassiionally(when everything has to be roped) more rigging but I prefer dealing with pieces I can handle in a fair fight
.
- Location
- North Wales, United Kingdom
When choking my line on a spar, I use a keyhole type Krab. If the spar splits, the krab pushes down against the hitch, pulling enough slack as necessary.
With a lanyard its a little more tricky. By clipping into the centre 'D's, the climber won't get caught in the bight, but the lanyard could still break. Also, it can put the climber too far back from the stem to position correctly.
I run my lanyard from hip to hip. To protect from splitting, I place a krab and micro pulley between each leg of the lanyard - the pulley goes just above the the hitch, and the krab attached to the pulley clips over the lanyard on the opposite side. A sling can be placed between the two for wider spars. A split will cause the pulley to push down on the hitch. I undo the stopper knot in the end if I half expect this on a large spar - that way I can come off the lanyard and fall into the choked lifeline that was set up as previously stated. When I figure out how to post photos I'll do it!
As for knockin out 12' sections on a rope, thats some hellish loading on your rope. I doubt if the value of the timber is worth that, let alone your life.
I would never tie into a pull line Brian - the pull line gets one hell of a hammering if the section piles it into the deck!
When descending to the next section, I'll unclip the lanyard and descend on the muenter hitch backed up with the Distel. But not before clipping my friction saver or footlock prusik into the keyhole biner used to choke the lifeline. This plenty long enough for repeat cutting of 4 to 6' sections. Get to to the next spot, lanyard in and repeat. I'll use an alpine butterfly with a long tail to reach the ground when I'm ready to fell the trunk.
Descending on the choked lifeline helps a great deal when over coming bends in the trunk on the descent - sometimes its impossible to get a gaff in that won't gaff out when you commit to it.
[ October 03, 2002: Message edited by: MrPez ]
With a lanyard its a little more tricky. By clipping into the centre 'D's, the climber won't get caught in the bight, but the lanyard could still break. Also, it can put the climber too far back from the stem to position correctly.
I run my lanyard from hip to hip. To protect from splitting, I place a krab and micro pulley between each leg of the lanyard - the pulley goes just above the the hitch, and the krab attached to the pulley clips over the lanyard on the opposite side. A sling can be placed between the two for wider spars. A split will cause the pulley to push down on the hitch. I undo the stopper knot in the end if I half expect this on a large spar - that way I can come off the lanyard and fall into the choked lifeline that was set up as previously stated. When I figure out how to post photos I'll do it!
As for knockin out 12' sections on a rope, thats some hellish loading on your rope. I doubt if the value of the timber is worth that, let alone your life.
I would never tie into a pull line Brian - the pull line gets one hell of a hammering if the section piles it into the deck!
When descending to the next section, I'll unclip the lanyard and descend on the muenter hitch backed up with the Distel. But not before clipping my friction saver or footlock prusik into the keyhole biner used to choke the lifeline. This plenty long enough for repeat cutting of 4 to 6' sections. Get to to the next spot, lanyard in and repeat. I'll use an alpine butterfly with a long tail to reach the ground when I'm ready to fell the trunk.
Descending on the choked lifeline helps a great deal when over coming bends in the trunk on the descent - sometimes its impossible to get a gaff in that won't gaff out when you commit to it.
[ October 03, 2002: Message edited by: MrPez ]
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MrPez:
...that way I can come off the lanyard and fall into the choked lifeline that was set up as previously stated. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I hope that was a theoretical and not based on experience remark...
Sergio
...that way I can come off the lanyard and fall into the choked lifeline that was set up as previously stated. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I hope that was a theoretical and not based on experience remark...
Sergio
- Location
- Bucks Co. P.A.
SAy I use a swabisch 4up 1down, as back up for ascender. I get to a spot and disconnect ascender and use swabi on the running end and work off of it. Is this kosher and will that hitch handle it?
Pretty much asking if a ITCC judge would need to "discuss this"
Pretty much asking if a ITCC judge would need to "discuss this"
- Location
- North Wales, United Kingdom
Yes Sergio, it was theoretical! It would have to be a big spar and a nasty split to use up all the lanyard. However, it is possible in some situations, so its nice to know there is a way that should deal with it. It would only be a Factor 1 fall anyway if the lifeline is choked just below the lanyard.
As for working off a prusik on a single rope sawdust - no way! If thats what you meant. Releasing the prusik might help you hit the deck - same as in footlocking a doubled rope. You could tie into your normal system and then run this off of the ascender and single rope, but be sure to back up the ascender with a marlin spike and krab.
As for working off a prusik on a single rope sawdust - no way! If thats what you meant. Releasing the prusik might help you hit the deck - same as in footlocking a doubled rope. You could tie into your normal system and then run this off of the ascender and single rope, but be sure to back up the ascender with a marlin spike and krab.
- Location
- below I20, Georgia
MrPez
Those 12'6" logs were pushed off the top of the spar and let free fall. In a location where you would have to chunk a pine out with a false crotch and line how do you estimate the weight of the chunk, and the loading on your equipment?
Those 12'6" logs were pushed off the top of the spar and let free fall. In a location where you would have to chunk a pine out with a false crotch and line how do you estimate the weight of the chunk, and the loading on your equipment?
Rob, are you wanting to work off a single line? Have you tried this? I have a few times in some pines. I too used a 4 up 1 down and it would get really tight. Perhaps maybe if I were to use a different cord. I was useing stayset.
I have seen Roachy work off single line but he also installs an 8 to take some of the load off the hitch. I believe the 8 would work better above the hitch.
I have seen Roachy work off single line but he also installs an 8 to take some of the load off the hitch. I believe the 8 would work better above the hitch.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
If a climber is going to work off of SRT, using a descending tool of some kind would be better than just using a friction hitch backed up by an eight or other tool.
A Gri Gri can be used. Any of the bobbin tools work too like the Kong Indy or Petzl Stop. When stopped to work, the descender should be tied off with some kind of mule or hitch. I use a Kong Speleo most of the time. When I;m in a working position, I throw a half hitch over the release handle to eliminate any creep down the rope.
Tom
A Gri Gri can be used. Any of the bobbin tools work too like the Kong Indy or Petzl Stop. When stopped to work, the descender should be tied off with some kind of mule or hitch. I use a Kong Speleo most of the time. When I;m in a working position, I throw a half hitch over the release handle to eliminate any creep down the rope.
Tom
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