SRT setup, attachment to hand ascender

C

climberizer

on the srt i use, think its called tree frog, the croll chest ascender is an attachment point, and the hand ascender is attached to the harness via a piece of rope/cord.

Is it considered acceptable to attach the cord/rope directly to the small holes on the ascender, rather than to a quick link or small biner.

i noticed the pic in the sherill catalogue has the cord tied directly to the ascender
 
I would use a biner better bend radius. A biner would be good dont use a quick link the one that would be the right size for that are not strong enough must be at least 23kn in us. The biner must also be auto locking.
be safe and have a great day.
 
I have a different application but I girth hitched a ring to a pair of taped together Petzl Ascensions with a short dyneema sewn sling... I think Blue Water makes it. I jammed a plastic eye thimble in there to reduce the wear.

EDIT:
It's a Bluewater 13mm x 12" Titan Runner rated at 27kN new. Got it at REI.

You can get plastic eye thimbles from Sherrill Tree... I'll bet Knot and Rope Supply has'em too.
 
That's a pretty thin 'edge' to be attaching rope or webbing directly to for life support. However, On Rope has been doing that for years with no problems that I'm aware of. Here's what they do for a QAS:

http://www.onrope1.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=72&parent=7

If you enlarge the pic, you will see that the rope is protected by a piece of nylon webbing where it goes through the eye.

You can attach via a screw-link, but the small diameter ones are quite compact and strong enough for life support, but over time, they will wear a notch in the ascender's attachment hole - quicker than a biner would.
 
It is really a pain to have a quicklink or biner in that hole--too much stuff flopping around. It is easy to modify the ascender to give yourself a better radius, and then attach directly with a girth hitch. The attached photo shows a mod that works very well. Take an old yardstick, or similar wood, and epoxy a sandwich of wood over the ascender holes. Then remove material with a rat-tail file to open the holes and produce a nice curve. The rope is 3/16-inch Amsteel Blue.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
It is really a pain to have a quicklink or biner in that hole--too much stuff flopping around. It is easy to modify the ascender to give yourself a better radius, and then attach directly with a girth hitch. The attached photo shows a mod that works very well. Take an old yardstick, or similar wood, and epoxy a sandwich of wood over the ascender holes. Then remove material with a rat-tail file to open the holes and produce a nice curve. The rope is 3/16-inch Amsteel Blue.

[/ QUOTE ]

Awesome Moray, I like your solution. I use PC7 epoxy, shape it while it sets and finish with a little sanding to do the same thing, it works great but takes more fiddling with the epoxy than what you're doing. Excellent.

Any time you can take hardware out of the equation it's less noise, less wear, less weight and more safety when there are less connectors in the chain. Or to put it simply, less is more.
-moss
 
I wouldnt think it would be much of a problem for the saddle to handle connection to be girth hitched to the hole (mine is spliced directly into the hole). I say this because you never put your weight on this rope (unless your croll fails), so the damage should be practicly nil. Where I could see it being more of an issue is the handle to foot connection on the Frog system, because you put your weight in that part. Make sense to anyone else?
 
A pic, poorly focused, but you get the idea.

Like I said, different application but same problem...

Ring-runner.jpg
 
[ QUOTE ]
...Where I could see it being more of an issue is the handle to foot connection on the Frog system, because you put your weight in that part. Make sense to anyone else?

[/ QUOTE ]

Makes sense, more heavy loading and unloading cycles happening with the foot loop tether on a Tree Frog. I girth my footloop tether through the handle opening (not the small hole at the bottom) on the ascender. It's the same on a jugging system, if you use a link to attach the footloops to a stamped frame ascender, it starts chewing away at the frame on the first couple of climbs.
-moss
 
WEbbing has been girth hitched to ascender frames for many years by big wall climbers, cavers, mountaineers. Be sure to dress the turns of the webbing so they lay flat.

Adding a thimble or fashion some sort of wider seat would be good too.
 
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