Split tail as friction saver?

macrocarpa

macrocarpa

Branched out member
Location
Midwest
See any problems with using split tails from the blakes hitch days as an adjustable friction saver?
 

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macrocarpa said:
See any problems with using split tails from the blakes hitch days as an adjustable friction saver?
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Why does the end of the split tail look so much smaller than the main rope ?
What is that stopper knot ?
Make sure the split tail loop is not stressing directly on the prussic eye splices ? i.e. maybe longer prussic cord ? ? ?
 
GregManning said:
Why does the end of the split tail look so much smaller than the main rope ? Because the spliced end is wider
What is that stopper knot ? Figure 8
Make sure the split tail loop is not stressing directly on the prussic eye splices ? i.e. maybe longer prussic cord ? ? ? Yes I will fiddle with the positioning - thanks!
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I know Figure 8 is a "standard" stopper knot. However, I know 3 very good climbers that have had them roll-out ! (I wasn't there, but I'm quite sure they were correctly tied, dressed & tightened.)
I would recommend using a double-overhand stopper.

I can also envision a problem tying it so close to the dimensional change between the splice & end.

Just my 2 cents.
 
I use a split tail for a friction saver, I see no problem with it. You’re probably fine like that but it’d have a nicer bend radius with two biners or a biner and a ring or quickie or delta link or small pulley on either the prusik or eye. It’d be retrievable if you use that pear/HMS biner along with something smaller that can be jammed with a knot or retrieval ball.

I can take a pic of mine later tonight if what I wrote isn’t making sense.
 
Jonny said:
I use a split tail for a friction saver, I see no problem with it. You’re probably fine like that but it’d have a nicer bend radius with two biners or a biner and a ring or quickie or delta link or small pulley on either the prusik or eye. It’d be retrievable if you use that pear/HMS biner along with something smaller that can be jammed with a knot or retrieval ball.

I can take a pic of mine later tonight if what I wrote isn’t making sense.
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That makes sense to me thanks! I was basing it on this -
 
GregManning said:
Why does the end of the split tail look so much smaller than the main rope ?
What is that stopper knot ?
Make sure the split tail loop is not stressing directly on the prussic eye splices ? i.e. maybe longer prussic cord ? ? ?
Click to expand...
What's wrong with the split tail loop touching the eye splices of the prussic?
I ask because in another thread we are talking about choking eye splices, the threads were " fate lanyard prototype" and cinching lanyards. Reed wortley waurthaug and AJ moss both say choking eye splices even with hardware is fine...and I believe hey wouldn't lie about their break tests.
Now this guy is choking rope on rope...I can't see what's wrong with it but I mentioned in that discussion with them that it seems everybody in our industry doesn't feel the same about choking splices ... Maybe we'll have to start a new thread on the topic.
What your thoughts on choking splices Greg?
 
Mowerr said:
What's wrong with the split tail loop touching the eye splices of the prussic?
I ask because in another thread we are talking about choking eye splices, the threads were " fate lanyard prototype" and cinching lanyards. Reed wortley waurthaug and AJ moss both say choking eye splices even with hardware is fine...and I believe hey would lie about their break tests.
Now this guy is choking rope on rope...I can't see what's wrong with it but I mentioned in that discussion with them that it seems everybody in our industry doesn't feel the same about choking splices ... Maybe we'll have to start a new thread on the topic.
What your thoughts on choking splices Greg?
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I was taught that stressing in spliced areas was to be avoided.
e.g. it may / will move the splice "settings" a little each time.

P.S. I am not a slicing expert. But have attended several classes / training sessions. (Rich H.; et al)
 
Maybe this configuration is better with the spliced O. Just trying to repurpose old gear.
 

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Mowerr said:
Ya that's what I had always thought too but Reed looked at me like I was crazy
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To be clear, side loading/flexing sewn tight eyes has worked very well for me, not seeing any degradation of the sewn join through the service life of both my main ropes and lanyards. I can't speak to how well spliced eyes handle flex and loading cycles.
-AJ
 
The Cousins thin splice would work instead of the class I you probably have.
Most splices are so tightly packed it seems unlikely they could be affected by rubbing on hardware or rope. Their stiffness would be the difficult part if it runs over something.
 
Im assuming this thimble is not rated for life support but cant find any solid info to clarify?
 

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macrocarpa said:
Im assuming this thimble is not rated for life support but cant find any solid info to clarify?
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In that configuration,, I don't believe, the thimble has to be rated; it is the cordage that needs to be rated. The thimble is only there to improve the bend radius; and abrasion resistance, for the cordage.
I have a very similar DMM thimble design / w/ a prussic on my lanyard.
Mine does not have a rating; only a DMM stamp.

Link: https://www.treestuff.com/dmm-stainless-steel-thimble/
 
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If that’s a plastic thimble, I would be pretty scared to run a moving rope system through it. Jamming one end with a knot or biner or whatever for SRT would probably be ok.
Personally I don’t use friction savers for SRT, but some do.
If nothing else, you could fashion a fine redirect with it.
* I mean the thimble on post #11. *
 
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