Spar Descent

simplyarbor

simplyarbor

Location
Bend, Oregon
I know there are a lot of threads out there on spar descent and srt systems. I hvae looked through them and have not been able to find what I'm looking for specifically...

I like the monkey tail system, but currently do not own a rope wrench, which I plan on getting when opportunity arises. In the mean time, I would still like to work off my XT if possible. Would it be reasonable to girth a nylon loop to a figure8 with carabiner connecting loop to bridge and run it above the friction hitch? Sort of acting like a ghetto RW...
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This is my first attempt at putting together a legit spar descent system and am trying to work with what I have at the moment. Any input or other simple ideas are greatly appreciated!!
 
Nice! Thank you lumberjackson, I hadn't seen that thread, seems like a nice simple system. I was thinking more along the lines of having a short 14" sling on the 8 that is set on the line above the hitch... basically to provide enough necessary friction to use my hitch on the single line.
 
The 8 works great above the hitch for decent. I use it all the time. I use a fig 8 on a bight and a carabiner to choke the spar, leaving a tail that reaches the ground for retrieval. Then attach the fig 8 with the tether ( I use my footlocking prusik) above the hitch and clip it into a hole on my hitch climber pulley. Rock solid, quick and easy.
 
the problem with an eight in conventional configuration is that you have no upward adjustment capability. Clipping the eight with the fate revolver set up gives you some ability to go upwards with out changing over and disconnecting. A revolver is not completely necessary, you can also use a big ring, you can also use the Kong Robot and also the scarab.
 
Anyone use a double bowline, creating a tail that reaches the ground in the process? This way you don't have to worry about side-loading as in the figure-8 on a bight and biner config. You can clip a biner through the 3rd loop of the double bowline to act as a stopper knot. I do this on spars and any running bowline, above anchor SRT set up. It makes swithching between SRT and DdRT easier than a bowline on a bight or alpine butterfly would.
 
What do you do when you don't leave stubs and your afc is too small? Besides, I don't have an afc. Primarily I was talking about working down a spar in an SRT configuration. However, the ease of switching between SRT and DdRT I was referring to was more so mid-tree from SRT to DdRT, whether pruning or removal. My question was a derail anyway, sorry.
 
Tried out the 8 on a sling above the friction hitch today and it is pretty tight... I will try out the f8 revolver, since it allows some upward movement and seems like it may be a little less friction overall! Just trying to find something smooth until kevin gets one up here to the central oregon desert
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Guarantee it will be the only one in town... I'm the only one on a hitchclimber for that matter!! Thanks for the input everyone.
 
Make one in the interim. Hammer handle $5, 1/2in. bit and a drill, then a smaller bit for tether hole. Drill your 1/2in. hole at a diaganol at the big end of the handle. This is the hole your rope runs through. Spend some time with a fat round file smoothing out sharp edges etc. Really, if you spend $5 and an hour or so working out where you need to file and all that, you'll have a functional RW until you can afford to drop $125.
 
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